Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette
Club
To submit a technical question regarding a 1953
to 1962 Corvette, simply email
sacctech@solidaxle.org
*Note: If you are using an Apple iPhone, you will have to hold down on the blue
letters. Then a box comes up and you
will need to select "New Mail Message". You should be fine then,
your email question will go to it's intended mailbox.
*In the subject box you need to put "sacctech/
(your SACC
membership number)". Example: sacctech/1234
If you are not a member, your question will not be excluded, however, it won't
get priority.
Disclaimer:
Our officers enjoy answering questions about your Corvette. Please keep in mind
before asking questions that we are not qualified or certified to diagnose
problems you may be experiencing with your Corvette. It is recommended that an
A.S.E. (Automotive Service Excellence) certified automotive technician diagnose
the vehicle for you. This way you get an accurate diagnoses on the problem and
an understanding of the parts necessary to remedy the problem. The experts
render opinions. Remember, the Solid Axle Corvette Club does not endorse
any supplier, manufacturer, or place of repair.
Keep in mind that members enjoy a wealth of
information via the SACC quarterly magazine, On Solid Ground. Here are
some of the topics contained in the Spring, 2008 issue:
-Insulate Your Solid Axle
-1956 Goodyear Corvette
-Harmonic Balancer Re-Install
-Six Cylinder Corner
-Will We Need NOS Engine Oil for out Old Cars?
-The Willet Run Garage
-The Marketplace - Member Classified
**********
09/29/2024
I recently purchased a 1954 Corvette from an estate sale that has the
original six cyl. but the tranamission was changed out some time in the
70's.
The car has not been on the road for at least 25 years. My problem is the
starter that is in the car (after having it rebuilt) does not engage or
mesh up to the
168 tooth flywheel that is in the car. I took all the spark plugs out and
turned the engine over with a flywheel tool. I also counted the teeth on
the flywheel.
The starter has 9 teeth on it. The car is still a six volt
system............My question is how many teeth should the flywheel have,
and how many on the starter ?????
The place that rebuilt the starter said that in was either for a 57 or 58 .
I have found a starter for a 53/54 Corvette, but was not sure if it would
do me any good if
I have the wrong flywheel in the car..............
I was advised by Larry Spillman to reach out to you for your help.
Thank you in advance, for your response.
Tim
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The number of teeth is not the important issue. The diameter of the flywheel
is. I see no reason you would have a problem - if you can turn the engine with
a flywheel tool - the starter should engage. NOTE ! the starter for a 57 or
58 is a 12 V starter it will not work in a 6V system. Does the starter bendix
engage ? When you hit the starter with voltage the starter gear should jump to
the end of the starter shaft. You can observe this with the starter out of the
car, on the bench.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Chicago Corvette has
a used original 53-55 flywheel for sale.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
08/17/2024
Hello Jack,
Recently I got a fully restored 1956 with a three speed standard
transmission. The odometer does not have any miles recorded on it. The
speedometer isn't working and I have found that the gear on the lower end of
the speedometer cable is not meshing with the gear on the tailshaft. First
I changed the gear and installed a new one. It still didn't mesh. Then I
put the gear into a spare transmission and it is still the same. If I
manually pull the fitting and gear out a little, some fiction is felt, but
you can still turn the gear freely with a piece of speedometer cable. The
mating gears on both transmission tailshafts look real good. It seems like
a larger gear is needed. The cable gears that I have been using measures
about 3/4 of an inch wide. Are wider gears available and am I using the
wrong gear? Thank you.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCAl Chapter Advisor:
Michael, I just measured the outside diameter of the speedometer gear in a
spare transmission for my 1956 Chevy Bel Air. It is 0.875, or 7/8 inches.
If your gear measures 3/4 inch, then it is 1/8 inch too small, and that is
why it doesn't mesh with the transmission gear. You don't say what your
rear end ratio is. The standard ratio for a 1956 with a 3 speed
transmission is 3:70. If so, the gear that you need is light green with 22
teeth. Corvette Central lists this gear as part number 531119.
Larry Pearson
**********
08/17/2024
Car Stalling out after about ½ hour of driving.
After about ½ hour of driving, I get a big shake, then the car just dies.
If I let it sit for about 10 minutes, it starts up just fine but only runs for
about 5 to 10 minutes.
We have the following as new:
Distributor
Wires
Plugs
Coil
Battery
We have emptied the gas tank (No floating particles in it).
We have changed the fuel filter.
NOTE: It’s a 350 V8, my fuel injection is long gone.
1957 car.
I don’t know what to do. Any ideas?
Joseph
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
My first guess is a heat related
ignition problem. Check coil (new coils can be defective). When it stops
open hood and see if coil is hot.
The condenser in the distributor may be defective.
Check wire from coil to distributor.
Hopefully others will speak up with other ideas.
Verle
From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Joe, are you using a distributor with points or a distributor modified to
use electronic ignition? I you are using points, check the ballast
resistor. It is the white ceramic thing mounted below the windshield wiper
motor. The resistance should be 1/2 ohm (Corvette), or 1.5 ohms (sedans).
Either one will work fine in your car. This resistor gets quite hot when
the engine is running, and maybe it opens circuit when it gets hot. The
symptom is when the engine dies and you try to restart it, it starts when
the starter is cranking and then immediately dies when you release the key.
This is because the ballast resistor is bypassed (shorted out by the starter
solenoid) when the starter is cranking. This increases the voltage to the
coil while the starter is cranking and causes the coil to give a hotter
spark. The large current flow to the starter causes the battery voltage to
drop below 12 volts while the starter is cranking. The running voltage in
the car is 14.2 volts when everything is up to normal temperature. This
voltage is necessary to keep the battery fully charged.
If you are using electronic ignition, that may be failing when the
electronics gets hot. Pull the wire from the coil to the distributor and
see if there is a spark when the engine dies. If not, the ignition is the
problem.
Larry Pearson
**********
08/08/2024
Strange looking gas tank drain plug. It has a 7/16th bolt in the center of other
cover insert. Is their a trick to removal or just take out the 7/16th bolt. I
did not want to snap off the small bolt. 1957 Corvette
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I saw your picture.
Have you tried to remove the bolt?
Is it so tight you are afraid of breaking the bolt?
I suggest you clean the area as much as possible, apply a good penetrating
oil and try to remove the bolt. Use a six point socket and work the bolt
back and forth. You may need multiple application of penetrating oil over a
period of time.
If there is gas in the tank siphon as much as possible out and there will
still be some in there.
Have a container under the bolt with funnel to guide gas into the
container.
Good luck,
Verle
I also have a 57
**********
07/19/2024
Hi Jack,
Hope you are doing well. I have a 61 Corvette 270
HP what is the correct generator pulley size?
Some tell me 3 5/8” other tell me 4” would the
wrong size pulley make my tachometer not work right.
Would either pulley size use the same fan belt?
Regards,
Glenn
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glenn, the correct generator pulley diameter for your 270 hp 1961 Corvette
is 4". The original part number for this pulley is 3711685. All 1958-1962
Corvettes with solid lifter camshafts used this pulley. The belt grove was
extra deep on these pulleys to minimize the chance of the belt coming off at
high rpm's, which these engines were capable of. With this in mind, the
effective diameter of the 4" pulley actually is 3 5/8". So the 3 5/8"
pulley will work fine for your application if that is all you can get.
Corvette Central sells a reproduction of the 4" pulley.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/03/2024
Was any part of the 60 power glide painted ? The one in my car appears to have
been painted a light to baby blue or parts of if it have been
Thanks
Frank
From:
Larry Pearsonk SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Frank, all cast iron Corvette transmissions, 3 sp, 4 sp, and Powerglide,
were originally painted with gloss black chassis paint.
This was done
just before the body drop onto the chassis. At this time, gloss black
chassis paint was sprayed on the transmission, with overspray on the bell
housing, the drive shaft, the exhaust system, the front suspension, the
brake master cylinder (which was sticking up in the air attached to the
brake line), the brake lines, front brake drums and backing plates and
lines, the front and rear sway bars, and anything else that was not already
painted. This is illustrated on page 50 of the book "Birthplace of
Legends". This book covers the manufacture of all Corvettes built at
the St Louis assembly plant, and contains many assembly line photos.
Chassis paint was a low cost solvent based black tar-like coating. It is
easily removed by all petroleum based solvents, from Mineral Spirits to
Lacquer thinner. Its gloss finish quickly deteriorates to flat. The four
speed transmission in my 1960 Corvette has never been out of the car and is
still painted with chassis paint, along with the shifter linkage and
overspray on the bell housing and clutch cover. A good friend of mine's
1961 cast iron Powerglide car's transmission was painted chassis black (that
was before he had it rebuilt, now it is unpainted).
Larry Pearson
**********
06/25/2024
You helped me last year with a speedometer gear issue and I’m wondering whether you or someone you know can help me with another issue.
I own a 61 Corvette as shown in the attached photos. I’m trying to determine if I have it valued properly for insurance purposes.
Some facts about it. I am the original owner, having purchased it off the showroom floor in November, 1960.
It has 89,000 original miles and has been garage kept for all but about 5 years. It has never been in an accident of any kind.
The paint is original and is in excellent condition. Except for the front bumpers (minor scratches), and one door post (pitted),
the chrome is just about perfect. Except for the clock, everything else works. The dash pad, seats and carpet have been
replaced to original condition. The convertible top looks new. It has a 4 speed with positraction.
The only negative I know of is that it does not have the original ehgine. The current engine is 350 ci with about 10,000 miles
on it and a 4 barrel carburetor.
I have no intention of selling it. My son will inherit it someday. I just think it’s underinsured and I’d like to get a
reasonable idea of its value.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Hagerty has a "value tool" on it's web site that can help.
Search the internet for 61s for sale. Don't believe the prices for the ones
for sale by a dealer.
DO NOT UNDER INSURE!
A friend recently had an accident, a pickup turned into him and did major
damage to a very nice original Corvette. The Pickup owner had minimal
insurance and my friend was vastly under insured (agreed value). His
insurance company would only pay that amount. The car was totaled.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
One owner 61 vets are few and far between. Don't think of the value of the car
as if you were going to sell it - think of it as if you had to replace it. You
can scan the WEB of comparable cars (you won't find any one owners). Bring a
trailer.com will give you some feeling of its replacement cost. Barett Jackson
and Mechum auction houses will also give you a feeling for what 61s are selling
for. Their WEB sites give you links to recent auction results.
**********
06/16/2024
Finally getting around to rebuild of 4663 fuel pump for our 1958 Vette.
Hit a stumbling block – the bottom dish-shaped plate (with AC logo) does not
want to come apart from the body (have removed the 2 screws, of course!)
I tried some gentle hammering and prying, it just does not want to budge.
Am I missing something?
Don't want to damage it …
… Alfred
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Alfred, the pump looks brand new. Why are you rebuilding it? The bottom
cover with the AC logo and the zig-zag pattern in the gasket are completely
correct. Test the output pressure and if it is at least 5 psi, the pump is
good. Most mechanical vacuum gauges also measure fuel pump pressure. These
pumps normally last for many years before they have to be rebuilt.
If you must rebuild it, the bottom cover appears to be glued in place with
some sort of gasket cement. Take a razor blade and cut away the edge of the
gasket and then force the razor blade into the gasket around the edge. If
you do this, the cover has to come off. Do not hammer on the metal cover in
an attempt to dislodge it. It will mar the finish and may warp it. This
cover has to be sealed against leakage. If it leaks, the gas in the tank
will siphon onto the garage floor, and you don't want that.
Larry Pearson .
Additional information:
Alfred, your problem is not your fuel pump. You should never have removed
it from the engine and taken it apart. It is brand new. Nothing is wrong
with it. Now you have to figure out how to put it back together with a new
bottom gasket. And then you must figure out how to install it back on the
engine. All this is very tricky.
Your pump is not getting any fuel from the gas tank. There is no fuel for
it to pump. The gas line to the tank is obviously plugged up somewhere.
Since the gas tank is higher than the fuel pump, a siphon will set up and
gas will start flowing by itself out of the line that connects to the input
to the fuel pump. This is not happening. Remove the gas cap and attempt to
blow into the line at the fuel pump end. If you cannot blow into the line,
something is plugged up on the way to the the fuel line pickup in the gas
tank. If so, you must remove the gas tank cover and disconnect the fuel
line from the fuel tank sender and blow through it. If you can blow through
it, then the problem is with the fuel tank fuel pickup assembly in the
tank. Remove it and determine where the blockage is. There is a strainer
(filter) on the end of the fuel pickup line. Maybe that is plugged up. Is
your gas gauge working? Is the float good (not full of gas)? Take an ohm
meter and move the float arm up and down. The float moves a pickup on a 30
ohm variable resistor, and moving the float arm should vary the variable
resistance from zero to 30 ohms. If this not happening, your gas gauge will
never work.
Did the gas in the tank go bad? If so, the tank has to be removed and taken
to a radiator shop to have it cleaned. If you store the car for long
periods, put Stabyl in the tank, Auto parts stores sell it. It prevents
the fuel in the tank from going bad.
As to your questions about the fuel pump. There are two cavities in the
bottom of the pump. One is the fuel input cavity that connects to the fuel
tank line, and the second one is the output fuel cavity to the carburetor.
Fuel enters the input cavity that has a one way valve on top (the round
thing), that allows fuel to be sucked up into the cavity under the main
diaphragm. When the actuator arm is pushed down, the main diaphragm moves
up and sucks gas through the inlet valve into the cavity under the main
diaphragm. When the actuator arm is released, the diaphragm pushes the fuel
through the one way output valve and into the output cavity that connects to
the fuel line to the carburetor. No fuel ever gets into the bottom cover
under the bottom gasket. The white powder in the bottom cover never gets
mixed with gasoline. It is not the problem.
When you get the problem fixed, you must plug the line at the fuel pump to
prevent a siphon from occurring and causing the gas to empty onto your
garage floor. Connecting the line to the fuel pump does this.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/24/2024
Corvette Info:
1961 Corvette, VIN: 10867S104243
283 cu.in. / 4BBL, base engine 230 HP, orange painted valve covers.
Engine Block Number: V152438 (stamped passenger front of block), Head ID:
3774692
Powerglide
Tuxedo Black with Red Int.
Original Condition. Shows 50,000 miles, but odometer not working.
Sold new by Frontier Chevrolet, Fresno, Calif. To James and June Louttit
Second Owner: Dennis William Rowe, Fresno, Calif. (1984-2020) Rowe took
car to Hawaii for most of his ownership.
Third Owner: Steve Ricci, Victoria, British Columbia, Canada – Steve
obtained it in a trade with Rowe’s widow.
Present Owner: Doug and Angela Oakley who purchased Corvette in May
2023.
Question:
I believe Engine is original and car shows that the 50,000 miles may be close.
Could Engine have been replaced while under Warranty?
My research indicated all 1961 Corvette Blocks were stamped 3756519
Thanks for the help.
Doug
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Doug, This is not the original engine for your car. The pad on the right
front of the engine block should have two stampings. The upper stamping
should be: FXXXXDG. The F means that the engine was made at the Flint
engine plant. All C1 V8 engines were made at the Flint, Michigan engine
plant. The XXXX is the production date for your car. Example: 0627 is June
27th. The DG code is for the base engine with powerglide, which you
say that you have. The lower stamping should be 104243, the VIN number for
your car.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The #3756519 is not a stamped number on the engine. It is the block casting
number. The engine serial number and power train codes go on the stamp
pad. Your car's serial number & transmission code "DG" should be there.
Only 10,939 61s were built. The highest serial number is thus 110,939. The
number 152438 is outside that range. It looks like the original engine has
been replaced. The number you need to look for is the "casting number"
"3756519" \1. It is located on the driver's side - top back of the
engine behind the heads - where the bell housing bolts to the engine. It is
a number cast into the block. This tells you whether or not it is a correct
block (61 283 Corvette). The casting number on your heads is correct for a
61.
Late production 61s used a 3789935 cast engine.
**********
04/16/2024
This corvette that I may purchase has power steering and power brakes. .Is
that good although non-original?
-Bev
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
What are you planing to do with the car.
If it is a driver, there is nothing wrong with those changes assuming the
work was done correctly.
If you are buying for an investment maybe not. Historically nice original
cars increase in value more than altered cars do. That may not be the case
in the future.
Just my opinion.
Verle
**********
04/11/2024
Guys,
I have a new front clip on my '56 Vette and need help locating how to place
the badge. Does anyone have the specific measurements as to how to place the
badge?
Thanks,
Ken
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
On my 57 with original, undamaged fiberglass,
centered between headlights, bottom edge of emblem is three inches from top
edge of original grill surround trim.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Center of badge is 1) center of nose panel L-R 2) 6 3/4 in down from hood
opening.
**********
03/19/2024
In August I sent an email describing the valve train problem that occurred in
my 230 hp 283. With your help, before I took it apart, it seemed like I might
have a broken valve spring and possibly bent an exhaust valve. The one thing
that i knew for sure was that I had badly bent a pushrod. Before taking the
engine apart I took compression tests of all of the cylinders and a leak down
test of all of the cylinders except number three, the faulty one. The leak down
test showed that any of the cylinders that didn't show leakage from valves only
had leakage from 13 to 15 percent. so I believe the rings are in pretty good
shape.
Before taking the heads off I found that several of the rocker arms were
most likely worn because there was much side to side movement and they had
been wearing onto the sides of the valve stems. Once the heads were off I
found no evidence that a valve had been hit by the piston. Good news. The
bad news is that the lifters have extreme wear and it has been suggested to
put in a new camshaft and lifters along with doing the heads. I am trying
to do all I can to not pull the engine out even though I know that would
make working on it easier. I don't know alot about the history of this
engine. When I bought the engine, I was told it had had a recent rebuild.
I believe now that might be correct. It is very clean inside and has just a
slight ridge at the top of the cylinders. I can barely feel it. I have run
it 8000 miles
So my question is, since I have to replace the camshaft, I was thinking
about putting in a Duntov cam and solid lifters. Is there any reason that
you would not recommend that? Also my plan, as long as the oil pan will be
off, is to put in a new oil pump.
Michael
Michael, installing a Duntov solid lifter camshaft will get you practically
nothing unless you install dual quads or Fuel Injection. Your single Carter
WCFB carburetor has too small a CFM to adequately supply a high lift
camshaft. Also, the solid lifter engines had high compression pistons,
boosting the compression ratio from 9.5 to 10.5.
I cannot see how rocker arms can wear into the sides of the valve stems.
But they can mushroom the tips of the valve stems. And they could wear into
the sides of the rocker arm mounting studs. Damaged studs can be replaced
when you do the valve job. I don't understand how the push rod got bent.
Did the rocker arm adjusting nut work its way loose? Is the #3 cam lobe
worn flat?
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
From your description I suspect the cause of your problems is cam and
lifter wear. A worn cam will result in loose rocker arms. The worn
rocker arms may be because they are old. When the rebuilt the engine did
they replace the rocker arms?
I strongly suggest you pull the engine. With the worn cam and rocker
arms you will have metal particles all through the engine. The crank and
rod bearings are probably worn. You need to have the block and
everything vatted so they are clean. Pay special attention to the oil
passages in the block, make sure they are clean.
A lot of people have had cam/lifter failures on brand new engine
rebuilds. Do your research before picking a cam.
I believe all 58 Corvettes had 9 to 1 compression. Higher compression
definitely helps performance but requires higher octane fuel.
I agree you would need more carburetion to realize performance of the
Duntov cam. A different intake manifold and larger carburetor.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
I don't know why you would use solid lifters unless you modify all
the other components necessary to achieve the performance of a solid
lifter 283. That includes pistons, intake and carburation. Solid
lifters alone means you have created a maintenance (adjustment)
routine for no other reason than to say you have solid lifters in
your engine. As far as the other issues - if you are changing the
cam I would definitely freshen up the other associated components
(lifters, pushrods and rockers). RE: oil pump - go to a high volume
pump.
**********
02/11/2024
I have a 1959 Corvette that had a non-posi rear ... I'm installing a posi
355 ratio rear ... I have seen a vent tube assembly that is for the older
Corvette's with a posi rear ... My axle tube has a small vertical vent tube that
is probably 2" long with a loose fitting cap for the vent ... Is it necessary
for me to install the vent listed for the older Corvette's which is a threaded
90 degree angle fitting with a pipe probably several feet long ... If I need to
install this threaded assembly I will need to tap some threads into the axle
tube since my vent was just a push in vent ... Any help would be greatly
appreciated ... Thank You very much ...
Jerry
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jerry, in my opinion, a vent is a vent, and that is all you really need for
your rear axle housing, regardless of Positraction. If you are having your
car judged by NCRS, then you need to to install the vent tube assembly and
remove and plug the hole for your vertical vent. The vent tube is
illustrated in the 1959 Corvette Assembly Manual under section RPO 675. No
dimensions are given for where the 90 degree fitting is to be located. It
might be in the same location as your vertical vent, which actually may be
threaded into place. The end of the vent tube is cut off at an angle, with
the open end facing down.
With the 1959 Corvette, the available Positration ratios were 3:70, 4:11,
and 4:56. The standard ratio with a manual transmission, Positraction or
not, was 3:70. Powerglide came standard with 3:55 open only. The 3:55
ratio was not available with Positraction in 1959 in Corvette.
I mentioned the 1959 Corvette Assembly Manual. If you don't have one of
these, you can buy one from any of the major Corvette parts suppliers. It
illustrates all the details on how Chevrolet manufactured your Corvette, and
is a "must have" if you work on your car. Also, buy the Corvette Servicing
Guide, Publication ST 12. This is the only official shop manual that
Chevrolet produced for the C1 Corvettes.
Larry Pearson
From:
Michael Cappozio, Ohio Restorer: Jerry, it would be best for you to
install the proper vent if installing at posi traction differential. Also keep
in mind, you may experience some possible leakage of gear oil from the axle
shaft seals. A posi traction housing has small plates welded inbound of the
axles to keep the gear oil from pushing towards the ends of the housing tube. An
open differential housing does not have these plates in place.
Michael
Capozzio
Classic Corvette Restorations
Chardon, Ohio
**********
01-14-2024
My question is on the date code...
The last # 8 on code L178 does the #8 specify the model year of car that the
axle was made for ?
OR ...
The actual date that the axle was molded / manufactured ?
GM # 3725899 / L178
L=November / 17 = 17th Day / 8=58
One more question the metal ID tab on the bolt at the two o'clock position
is that from under car facing the rear of car or looking in from back of car
towards the front ?
I was under there and actually didn't see it in either position but I see
they sell the tabs to put back in place when restoring car / axle.
Thank you
Barry
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The number you are referring to
(L178), is the casting date of the carrier. L=Dec. 17th - 1958. The Ratio tag
you question is located at the two o"clock position when viewed from the FRONT.
Follow up question to date code on rear axle
L178 (
November 17, 1958 )
Then this axle L178 was made for an early model 1959 Corvette ?
According to internet the last 58 model to roll off the assembly line was in
August of1958. ( According to internet ).
Do the 1959 cars have 1958 dated axles ?
I was guessing that maybe they put month ( L) day (17) then the actual
model year of car to be fitted on the stamp (58). But that is a guess and
would only make sense to me making mine a original 1958 model year rear
axle.
L
November 17 day and made in 1957 but for a" 58 " model - L178
My 1958 has a couple signs of being an early model car besides the " born on
date" look up tool and my low VIN #
I have the short tab hood latch location hole ( but not short tab ) and the
door chrome trim end pieces having no screw hole from the top. The chrome
door end pieces have a clip and a screw from underneath creating a smooth
finish from the top with no visible screw hole.
Attached is a picture of a date stamp on boot cover hinge area and my
original and replacement hood latches which isn't the short tab but has the
short tab location hole (two holes). The original shown has the long tab
with two holes and my release cable ran up from underneath to the inner
short tab location hole.
I am guessing that this was the solution during the transition from short to
long tab hood latches.
I couldn't find short tab replacement latches and the "new" replacement
latches only have the outer hole as shown in photo.
In order to use long tab replacement latch I drilled the second inner hole
to accommodate the original cable hold down bracket guide location and now
they look like my original two hole long tab latches.
If I changed the cable guide bracket to accommodate outer hole I would have
had to drill to many new holes in firewall to install which I chose not to
do.
The date stamped under the hinge on my boot cover is dated
January 30, 1958 contradicting the birthday website results by a bit
( 6 weeks ).
It may have taken the extra 6 week trip down the assembly line while they
were trying to figure out the hood latch assembly. Lol
It took me about that same amount of time. : )
Sorry I went a little off topic on rear axle but it is all production date
related.
Thank you for all your help.
Barry
From:
Bill Huffman, Michgan Chapter President:
Barry,
The
differential in your 1958 Corvette was cast on
Nov
17, 1958, which is at least 3 months after your car could have been
built.
So, it
can't be original to the car, if you care.
Original
date coded parts should be 3 months to 2 weeks prior to vehicle assembly.
The
number below that is the casting number 3725899, so it is a GM, non-posi
differential.
On the
same surface but on the opposite side of the pinion emboss you should find
two capital letters that identify the original ratio & GM vehicle model as
well as a stamped date of differential assembly.
A 1959
Corvette without positraction, should show the letters AE for 3.55, AH for
3.70 or FJ for 3.70, manual trans & metallic brakes.
To
determine the axle ratio of what some previous owner has installed, turn the
rear wheel exactly one revolution and count the number of driveshaft
revolutions.
Depending
on what its original application was, it could be anywhere from 3.08, 3.36,
3.55, 3.70, 4.11 to 4.56.
Base for
your car was 3.70:1 w/ manual trans or 3.55:1 for a power glide automatic.
A lot of
stuff gets replaced in 65 years of somebody else owning your car.
Good luck
with your project,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
**********
01/08/2023
Was wondering if anyone had a scale drawing of the heater defroster diverter
box cardboard components. I'm considering making one, my 59 is a driver not
being judged. Thanks Dennis
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Dennis,
I made a
heater defroster box for my 1960 many years ago before reproduction parts
were available. I made it from furnace duct galvanized steel, using the old
broken cardboard heater box as a pattern. If you don't have your old one,
you can usually find one at any Corvette swap meet or on e-bay.
Paint it
matte black and nobody will even notice. It is still in my car & works fine.
Good
luck,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dennis, Corvette Central sells a complete defroster box with hoses for about
$200. Their part number is 455120. I assume that you have the metal part of
the heater and just need to replace the pressboard defroster assembly. I
very much recommend that you buy the Corvette Central reproduction, because
its shape and complexity would take an enormous effort on your part to
reproduce. The price of the reproduction from Corvette Central is very
reasonable, in my opinion.
Larry Pearson
**********
01/03/2024
I have a new/old Ecklers one piece front clip from the front of the
windshield forward for a a 1956 or 1957 Corvette. It came with my 1956 project
that I purchased in 1991, but was never bonded onro a car. I bought a one piece
clip that includes the upper dash to use instead. I have someone interested in
buying my original clip. but there is a question on how the grille oval would
attach since the area around the opening is just flat fiberglas with no
reinforcement. Is there anyone on the panel that is familiar with one of these
one piece units that can shed some light on how the grille oval would attach?
Thank you,
Michael
From:
Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The chromed grill oval has 5 vertical metal braces that strengthen the grill
oval and the oval
just bolts to the fiberglass with a metal flat washers behind the brackets.
I am assuming that the opening for the
grill has been cut out according to specifications. (Picture attached of
shape of the factory opening)
I installed one from Eckler's in about 1975 and didn't have to do anything
to reinforce it.
Just be sure you have the proper brackets (picture attached), washers and
nuts that are
meant for the installation. The grill ring installs using the black vertical
brackets before any
part of the actual grill is installed into it.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I don't believe there is any
reinforcement around the 56-57 grill opening. The mounting points are slots in
the glass - the grill oval is mounted directly to the glass with studs in the
oval and supported with a retainer plate, washer and nut (see illustration).
**********
12/10/2023
Hi
I have a 58 and I am installing a new gas tank, filler neck grommet and hose
etc.
It is so tight in the filler neck area. So far I put in the grommet then
slid the filler neck in. Then I managed to put the hose and inner hose clamp
on.
Now I was thinking about carefully letting tank drop in and attaching the
gas tank side of hose on it's tank drops in.
I am guessing the grommet will come loose at some point.
Is there a procedure you can suggest for me ?
Does the grommet go on last ?
If so how ?
Persistence, some grease and a side patience ?
I am working alone so it's a tuff, tight fit.
Any suggestions will be appreciated
Barry
Oh any suggests on removing three layers of paint ?
Brand of stripper ?
Sand paper ?
Razor blade ?
All three ?
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry, I think that you got it right. Install the grommet, then push the
filler tube into it from inside the tank area, then install the tank and
finally, install the rubber coupling hose and clamp it down securely at both
ends. Use Sil Glide silicone lubricant if you need it. Do not use
petroleum based lubricants on rubber.
Inside the gas filler area there is a drain hole. In the gas tank area
there should be a rubber hose connecting a fiberglass nipple on the other
side of this drain hole to a hole at the bottom of the gas tank area going
under the car. This drains gas spilled in the filler area directly under
the car. This helps eliminate gas fumes from getting into the car. With
the gas tank out of the car, installing a new drain hose is very easy if it
is missing. Make sure that you have installed a rubber hose from the gas
tank vent to the gas filler area, where is is clamped in place.
When installing the gas tank cover, be sure to completely seal it to prevent
gas fumes from getting into the car. Use 3M Strip Caulk to do the sealing.
That is what GM originally used to seal the tank cover. Originally it was
light gray, but only black is available
today. It has a clay like consistency and is easy to work into
place.
Do not use chemical strippers on fiberglass. It will damage the fiberglass
gel coat. Wet sand using 3M wet or dry sandpaper, 400 grit. Do not sand
through the gel coat. If your car has damaged fiberglass, have a
professional repair it. You should have a professional prepare and paint
your car.
Today's automotive paints are extremely toxic, and have to be used
with a pressurized suit in an approved spray booth.
Today, new cars are painted by robots. Automotive lacquer, which
your car was originally painted with, is no longer available.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chaoter Advisor:
Barry - John Spencer here - I have stripped and painted a dozen or more
Corvettes. Most advisors caution you against using any kind of chemical
strippers - but - used properly they will make the job removing original + paint
easier and give you a better end product. Here is my experience - First only use
a quality stripping agent. Purchase it from an automotive paint supplier, not
your local hardware store. Second use with a lot of water (running hose).
Other items needed 1-rubber gloves 2-plastic bondo spreader 3-empty coffee can
or other suitable container 4-disposable paint brush 5-steel wool. Process:
Paint a coat on 2x2 square area - let the stripper do its job - remove the
stripped paint with the plastic spreader - repeat this process until you get
down to the original primer. You can work two areas at once - coat area 1 ,
pause for a period of time, when it’s ready to strip - coat the second area. By
the time you’ve stripped area 1 and added a second coat of stripper - area 2
will be ready to address. The first container is for stripper tho second
container is for the stripped paint. The rubber gloves are to protect you
(heavy rubber not latex shop gloves). When you get down to the primer coat -
apply your stripper and scrub it with your steel wool while applying running
water to the area until the surface is clean. This will remove stripper residue
and not damage the glass or gelcoat. When you’ve done this properly - you end
up with a clean smooth surface. A light wet sanding and you’re ready for
priming. If you need additional info I can send you a photo guide of this
process
Caution: Stripper is very caustic - it will burn you if contacted and should
be used only in a well ventilated area
**********
12/08/2023
Does anyone know if I can put 15" x 7" American Racing Torque Thrust D wheels
on Wilwoods 11" Disc Brakes? This is a 58 Corvette. I have tried both
manufactures and nobody can help. Thanks Russ
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Russ,
Not
enough info in your request for me to give a definite answer.
Which
came first, the 11" brakes or the 15 x 7 wheels?
Have you
already bought the parts & can't make them fit or is this a new combination
you want to try out?
!5 x 7
wheels are too wide for a 1958 Corvette because they will rub on the front
inner fenders when attempting to turn.
In
addition, steering effort in a '58 with 15 x 5.5 O/S stock wheels is
difficult enough with a 17" steering wheel without the added resistance of
the larger footprint.
Corvette
Central sells a complete disc brake set kit that will fit inside the stock
15 X 5 Corvette wheels. With this kit, you can mount any wheel you choose
as long as it doesn't rub on the inside.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter advisor:
Russ, I used to slalom race my 62. I tried wide (I don't remember how wide,
but wider than 5 1/2 inches, which I was running) Torque Thrust Wheels with
low profile tires (to avoid fender contact). I could barely steer the
car.
It is important that the wheels used on the front not be offset from stock.
That is, the center line of the wheel must be exactly over the large inner
wheel bearing, which is made large to carry the vehicle load. The small
outer bearing just assists with cornering loads. If the wheels are offset,
part of the vehicle load is transferred to the small outer wheel bearing,
and can result in early failure. Offset wheels are not a problem in the
rear.
The wheels that you are considering are undoubtedly designed to be used with
disc brakes, and, therefore should work fine. The maker of the disc
calipers shouldn't matter.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/2/2023
Greetings, I am thinking of buying an early corvette 57 to 60....Is it possible
to find an original driver for about 75,000.?....I am retired from the medical
profession and live in MA......Your website is spectacular....Thank you..
Bev.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Yes. You should be able to find
a decent driver in good condition (probably restored or up graded). First place
to look is your local corvette clubs or NCRS Chapters. You
are most likely to get a true evaluation of a Classic from a personal owner. You
will pay a premium through a dealer. A good auction site is "Bring A Trailer".
From:
Larry Pearson, Southern California Chapter Advisor:
It certainly is possible to buy a nice 57 to 60 for $75,000. Keep in mind
that condition is important. A show car is expensive to build and will cost
a lot more because of this. If you just want a driver and do not plan to
have the car judged, a car with a non original engine will cost a lot less
than a "numbers matching" car. Generally speaking, the 57 and 58 models are
more desirable, and thus more expensive, the the 59 and 60 models. The high
horsepower cars with four speed transmissions are the most sought after and,
usually, the most expensive. Powerglide equipped cars are a joy to drive in
today's
traffic, but are less desirable to the Corvette collector, and, therefore,
are less expensive.
If you don't know these cars very well, you should get advice from someone
who does before purchasing. All C1 Corvettes went through a phase when they
were only worth a few hundred dollars, and many of the owners at that time
abused them terribly. Accident damage has always been very expensive for
Corvettes, and many repair shops cut corners, or were incompetent, and did
not make lasting repairs. Unlike metal cars, damaged fenders don't unbolt,
and have to be repaired in place by highly skilled technicians.
The above advise generally applies to any vintage car, not just Corvettes.
I wish you the best of luck with your search.
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advsor:
There are other years available in the same price range, most
require work.
When I bought my 57 I planned to drive it so I did a complete
mechanical rebuild, brakes, engine, transmission, differential to
insure reliability.
When you find a car you are interested in, ask here for anyone who
lives close to help inspect it. A lot of people with knowledge are
willing to help.
Verle
**********
10/27/2023
we’ve pretty much finished the restoration of my 54 vette. But I need a
top. The current one, on car from when I bought is black, but the frame is tan.
Shouldn’t the top be tan for a 54? Also, who makes best replacement tops? AK is
out of all tops except black ones. Other suppliers have vinyl and canvas
versions available - what is recommended?
Thanks,
Mike
From:
John Spencer, REd River Chapter advisor: Correct top for a 54 is Beige /
Canvas
Below is an example:
**********
10/23/2023
Hi,
I think I have found a used top for my
62 BUT it will need to be restored and painted. Do you know anyone who
does that for a reasonable fee?
Thanks.
Ivar
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Ivar, I assume that you are talking about a hard top. You don't say where
you live. I live in the Los Angeles area and know of someone who could
probably repair your top for a fair fee, but shipping something like this is
a big problem if you live far away. Corvette Central sells restored C1 hard
tops outright for $7664.15 plus $250 shipping in their most recent catalog.
Frankly, to me, that sounds reasonable for what you get. What does this top
you found need? If it is just paint, that is fairly simple. If it needs
everything, it gets very expensive.
These tops are a masterpiece of construction, but it takes an expert to
properly repair and restore one. Back in the day, the second top option was
a mere $250. What A deal.
Larry Pearson
From:
Michael Cappozio, Ohio Restorer:
Ivar, while this job can be completed by several shops, or even yourself, it is
very difficult and labor intensive. All the parts are available through
Glassworks, The Hardtop Shop in Imperial, PA. They do however offer full and
complete restoration of your hardtop. It is unfortunately quite expensive and
they work on a very long lead time. But the quality of work is next to none and
the top looks better then new when finished. They have done several tops for my
shop and I have always been beyond satisfied.
Michael Capozzio.
**********
09/15/2023
I am a 48 year member of AACA that is considering the purchase of a 1956
Corvette. As part of my research of the car I am trying to determine if the car
has its original engine. The VIN NUMBER of the car is E56S003345 which is the
latter half of the production run. The engine serial number is 0499185F56GR. The
56GR matches the dual 4 barrel manifold but I have not been able to determine if
the prefix 0499185 is within the range appropriate for my VIN NUMBER. Can you
provide any guidance on this issue? Thank you in advance for your help.
Regards,
Wayne
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Wayne,
That I know of, there is no known correlation between the 56 engine sequence
number and the VIN of the car. The higher sequence numbers tend to be on
later cars. I hope someone can provide a better answer to that question.
The casting numbers on the back of the block will help. On the bell housing
flange there will be a casting number on one side and a casting date on the
other side.
Also remove valve covers and get the casting number and casting date for
each head.
Your head casting numbers should be 3731762
Your exhaust manifolds should be 3731557 Left and 3731558 Right
If you can provide the above casting numbers and casting dates it will help
identify the engine.
Good luck,
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Wayne - Vin numbers were not stamped on engines in 56 - correct. Here is
some info to help you determine the authenticity of your engine. First -
check the engine casting. This is located on the bell housing flange of the
engine. 56 casting is 3720991. On the opposite side of the engine is the
date code the engine is cast. Documented Serial Number E56S003344 was
produced
August 8th, 1956. Your date code should be June-July
56.
The closest S/N to engine # to yours I find is:
S/N E56S002931 = Engine 0620340F56FG
The closest engine # I find to yours is:
Engine # 0402424F56FG = S/N E56S001939
It appears your engine is from an earlier 56 than yours. The date code
should confirm or refute this.
Even if the block you have is not be the original that came with your car -
if the casting number is correct - it is correct for your year.
**********
09/12/2023
Hi my name is Dean, a relatively new member. I have a 62 vette with a 340
hp with the original carb. After the engine and engine compartment
gets warm the engine doesn’t want to idle. I have had the carb worked on
but still have the problem. I feel like it is a heat issue. Have you heard
of this
from other owners? I have owned the car since 1964. Any help would be
appreciated.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
My first thought is a vacuum leak.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dean: You need to consult the Corvette Servicing Guide, Chevrolet
publication ST-12 to help you with this problem. ST-12 is the only
official Chevrolet shop manual for the C-1 Corvettes. It is available
as a reprint from all the major Corvette parts suppliers and is a "must
have" for all C-1 Corvette owners.
There are two separate idle speed adjusting screws on the AFB
carburetor. When the engine is cold and the Carburetor choke valve is
closed or partially open, the Fast Idle Screw sets the idle speed. This
screw operates in conjunction with the fast idle cam, and is shown in
Figure 94 on page 6M-37 in ST-12. Once the engine is fully warmed up
and the choke valve is completely open, the fast idle cam no longer
controls the engine idle speed. At this point, the engine idle speed is
set with the Idle Speed Adjusting Screw, which is shown in Figure 92 on
page 6M-36 of ST-12. Adjusting this screw should solve your hot idle
speed problem.
Once you get your hot idle speed properly adjusted, you need to adjust
the two Idle Mixture Adjusting Screws, shown in Figure 92 on page
6M-36. This is easily done on a hot engine by turning each screw
clockwise, one at a time, until the engine starts to die. Then turn the
screw 3/4 of a turn counter clockwise. If these screws are open too
far, the engine idle mixture is too rich and may cause black smoke to
issue from the exhaust pipes at idle, and a rough idle. After making
this adjustment, you may have to re-adjust the engine hot idle speed.
Larry Pearson
**********
09/06/2023
Just found your website and thought a great place to ask my question.
I'm in the process of installing a soft top on my 1958 Corvette and
wondering the bow measurements for putting in the 2 pads.
If someone could provide measurements it would be much appreciated.
From the Front Bow tack strip to #1 bow
From #1 Bow to # 2 Bow
From # 2 Bow to # 3 Bow
From # 3 Bow to #4 Bow with the tack strip.
Thank you so much for your help
Tom
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Tom: These measurements are from a top that has the original pads in place,
so they should be correct. The measurements were made along the center line
of the top.
Rear edge of the header to the center line of bow #1: 15 1/2 inches
Center line of bow #1 to the center line of bow #2: 8 1/2 inches
Center line of Bow #2 to the center line of bow #3: 5 1/4 inches
Center line of Bow #3 to the center line of bow #4: 4 3/4 inches
Overall from the rear edge of the header to the center line of bow #4: 34
1/4 inches, which is only 1/4 inch more than adding up the separate
measurements, so my separate measurements are quite accurate.
Before installing the pads, lubricate all of the bow pivot points. Use 30
weight engine oil if you are not disassembling the bows from the side
frames. Use light grease if you have disassembled the bows. It is very
important that you lubricate the large slotted screw pivot point in the
center of the side frame. If you want to remove it, there is a small Allen
head set screw that holds this screw in place that must be loosened before
it can be removed. The top frame is painted semi-gloss black. Make sure
that the tacking strips are in good order.
Before installing the pads, install all six weather strips and retainers to
the side frames and adjust the top frame to fit the side windows when all
the way up. If you have a hard top, install it and make sure that the side
window stops are adjusted so that the side windows properly fit the top
weather strips when rolled all the way up. It is critical that the side
frame pivot point is adjusted to lift the center pivot to fit the side
window frame. This is done with the link that connects to the center pivot
and has the sole purpose to pull it up.
If you purchased your pads from Al Knoch, in my experience, they are at
least one inch too short. He cuts them to length with no extra material.
To make them work, in my experience, you get wrinkles in the pads. One of
our Chapter Members, Jeff Reade, installs tops and encountered the same
problem that I did. To get the proper length pads, tell the Al Knoch people
that you want the "Jeff Reade" top pads.
If you need parts, the entire top frame has been reproduced by Sully's Tops
in Fresno, California. Call 559.291.8677. Or go to
www.sullystops.com
Larry Pearson
**********
09/02/2023
I have an all original 1956 corvette that I purchased from the original owner 50
years ago. Yesterday after driving for about 10 miles I parked it for a couple
of hours. When I got in to leave, no reverse in the power glide. Today upon
further investigation it seems the transition is in drive all the time, even in
park, neutral and in .reverse it seems to be in both. I never had a problem with
the transmission before, this just came out of the blue. Checked shifter ,
linkage all seems well .shaft that goes into transmission rotates. Rear Tran
mount new 3 years ago and in good shape. I’m hoping I over looked something that
can be easily fix. Any help would be appreciated as this is my favorite time of
year to use it. Thank you in advance Tom …. 56 vet,265 duel quarts, 2 speed
powerglide.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
If your shifter linkage is intact and operating good - the problem has to be in
the transmission itself. Sounds like you need to have a GOOD x-mission man
inspect and probably rebuild the tranny.
**********
08/07/2023
Hello SACC,
While heading to a show this
morning in
our 1958 Corvette and twenty-five miles from home we developed a ticking noise
and it especially got worse when under more power going up hills. I had just
gotten a tank of gas. So I was thinking that it could be bad gas. We decided
to turn around and go back home. At that point we noticed a little backfiring
through the exhaust when decelerating. I began to assume it was probably valve
related and when I stopped to listen it sounded like the left bank. We decided
to limp back home slowly, but within ten miles it developed a knock. Still the
noise seemed like the top end, but we shut it off once we found a safe spot to
stop, and called a flatbed. I was thinking a bent or broken pushrod. After
getting it flat bedded safely back to our garage I found that indeed it had an
exhaust pushrod that had gotten by the rocker arm and was bent and almost broken
off from hitting the under side of the rocker arm cover.
My question to the experts is what to do next. Should I put in a new pushrod
and adjust all of the valves? Should I put all new pushrods in? Should I look
at the lifters, (i've heard of collapsed lifters), or if I have to change one
should all 16 get changed? I do not know the history of the engine, but it runs
well and seems to be very clean in the tops of the heads and valve train. We
have run it only 8000 miles since 1997, without any issues.
Thank you for your help.
Michael
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: From your symptoms, it sounds like your exhaust valve has stuck
partially open. The valve springs on your car are coaxial, There is the
outer spring made from heavy round wire and an inner spring made from flat
wire. Possibly the outer spring broke and the valve is being operated only
by the inner spring, which is not designed to operate the valve, and maybe
the valve is stuck partially open. If this happened the piston may have hit
the partially open exhaust valve and that was the source of the knock. If
this happened, the valve may be bent and the piston top may be damaged. I
had this happen with my 62 while I was returning from a Corvette meet out of
state. I removed the rocker arm cover and backed off the rocker arm nut and
removed the push rod. When I got home, I replaced all of the valve springs
to prevent this from happening again. And It hasn't. The springs can be
replaced without removing the cylinder heads. Another possibility is a
broken rocker arm. If so, replace all of them. I don't think that it is a
totally collapsed tappet. A partially stuck hydraulic tappet could account
for the ticking sound, but not the knock. If your car has solid tappets,
they can't collapse.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
This is not an uncommon problem. Lifter, pushrod, rockerarm failures can be
simple or totally devastating. A surefix is to pull the heads and have them
gone through. This is costly however. If you think the problem is just in the
pushrod, first replace the lifters, pushrods and rocker arms. After you have
replaced these, you can check compression to assess the condition of the pistons
and valves. Assuming you are not pushing the 58 hard - the engine should give
you miles of reliable service
**********
08/04/2023
hi . i have a 1958 corvette ,it has been updated to a 350 zz1 with alternator
system . my problem is it seems all or most of my original gauges are out of
sync .i am thinking it has to do with the possibility of the gauges being made
to run off the generator ,possibly being of a certain calibration . could this
be possible and or is there any fix so i can retain my original gauges giving me
proper readings. any thoughts on this would be much appreciated . thanks perry.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Perry: Your car has five gauges: Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge,
Temperature gauge, Ammeter, and engine temperature gauge.
The Speedometer is mechanical and runs off a cable from the transmission
tail shaft. If you are using a modern transmission, there might not be a
place to connect the speedometer cable to.
The tachometer is mechanical and runs off a speedometer type cable off an
adapter on the back of the generator, which you don't have. The 1962 and
later models are also mechanical and run off of the distributor. This
arrangement might work for you if you can run a 1962 and later distributor
with your ZZ1 350 .
The fuel gauge is electrical and runs off a variable resistor and float in
the gas tank. This should not be affected with the alternator.
The Ammeter is set up for the original generator and voltage regulator. The
early alternators used an external voltage regulator, like the generators
used. The later alternators have a built in voltage regulator. The
alternator conversion is very common, but I have never done this
conversion,so I cannot advise you how to do it. Modern cars use a volt
meter instead of the ammeter. This greatly simplifies the wiring. It just
measures the alternator's voltage output. The system normally runs at 14.2
Volts, even though it is called a 12 volt system. If the system is
operating at 14.2 volts, you can assume that the car's battery is being
properly charged.
The oil pressure gauge is mechanical and has a metal tube that runs to a
fitting that connects to the engine block oil gallery. I don't know if your
engine has a place to connect this gauge tubing to.
Corvette Central has a big catalog section showing modern electronic gauge
systems that they sell.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The only gage that should affected by an alternator conversion is the
ammeter (Battery). You might refer to later model wiring diagrams using
alternators (ie: midyears). They do wire differently
**********
08/01/2023
I JUST joined your club and THANK YOU for the previous answer concerning the
window problem. Next week I will be tackling this problem with my mentor Steve
Clifford here in Orange County CA..
I have 4 new questions. I would like to upgrade the radio and went to a
stereo shop. They have NO experience with a 62 vet. They asked me to see if I
could get some technical information for the install. Question how does
one go about replacing the radio with a direct NEW Bluetooth NO modification
radio? What parts need to be removed to do this, do you have a diagram? I want
to add kick panel speakers. How much room is there behind the kick panels?
Depth, room to install as many speakers may be too deep. How many inches of
space on the driver’s side and passengers’ side? OR is it better to buy the
speakers that are part of the NEW kick panel that they make?
What needs to be removed to correctly remove the kick panels on both sides?
Is it preferred to use the old kick panels and drill threw them or use the new
ones with the speakers already installed into the new kick panels?
Next question my gas gauge only reads 5/8 to ¾ full with the tank topped off. Is
there a way to fix that? The gauge has been grounded I have been told. Do I have
a bad gauge or is something defective?
I am thinking of adding a sniper 2 EFI system with a new fuel tank. The Sniper
version 2 just came out, Do you have any other recommendations of brands etc.
The engine is a 350 ZZ4 has anyone already done this and if so maybe you could
point me in their direction to speak to etc. I am getting some pathetic gas
milage around 9 miles per gallon for city use without any hot rodding so I think
this would help significantly and the engine should start more easily, less
exhaust smell, etc.
Thank YOU.
Ivar
Do I need to contact the local SAAC group or do you do that automatically with
my membership.
Thanks.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Several manufacturers offer replacement (direct fit) radios for Vettes. See
Corvette Central. These are direct fit and give you modern reception while
keeping the look of the original radio. I would seriously consider this
option before I started trying to modify my original radio.
As for speakers - replacement kickpanels are available with speakers already
mounted. If you choose to go the route of installing speakers in your
kickpanels, there is adequate room but for one brace. Remove your kickpanel
first to determine proper size and placement of your speakers. This is not
hard - remove your door sills and the surface screws holding the panels in
pace.
RE: FI - I have not used the system you propose, but properly done I believe
any good FI will give you improved performance. I would defer to the
manufacturer for help.
RE: Gas gage - I would suspect your sending unit (possibly the ground to
that unit). This is easily accessed. Remove the cover panel under the
convertible top storage area. The tank sending unit is on top of the tank.
Note - before you extract the sending unit "check the ground to that unit".
A poor ground will give you a faulty reading. You can bend the float arm to
adjust gage readings but you trade off Full vs EMPTY accuracy. Again, you
can find replacement sending units in the Corvette Central store.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Ivar,
Before you start
swapping radios in your 1962, Corvette Central has an AM-FM Bluetooth radio
that looks like your original Wonder Bar radio that you might want to look
at.
When you get done, it will still look like the original Wonder Bar radio.
Bill Huffman,
Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
07/26/2023
I hope you can help me learn the correct speedometer gear for my 61 Corvette.
At 70 mph on GPS, the speedometer on the dash is reading 60 mph. I bought the
car new off the showroom floor in November, 1960 and I am very familiar with
everything that has been done to the car maintenancewise. It has the original 4
speed transmission and the original factory rear end with positraction. I
believe the ratio is 3.70. The tires are 205-75.
A few years ago, the gear at the back of the transmission broke. The shop that
was doing all my work had a gear that was laying around and that fit. Not
knowing any better, we paid no attention to the color of the broken gear or the
number of teeth. It was only many months later that I realized that the reading
on the dashboard was incorrect. I now want to replace the current gear with the
correct one but I don't know which gear to buy. The current gear is brown with
18 teeth. In asking around I have been told three different things. One said I
need to add one tooth (Natural). The next one said two teeth (Blue). The third
one said 6 teeth (Yellow).
Can you tell me which color along with the correct number of teeth that I need
to get?
Art
From:
John Spencer, Ree River Chapter Advisor:
rt - One owner ...WOW !! ... We don't see that very often. I am assuming by
the count of the gear you are trying to replace - you are talking about the
DRIVEN gear. Think of it this way - If you are wanting to increase the speed of
your speedo - you want to increase the revolutions of the cable at a set speed
of the transmission. The DRIVE gear has a given number of teeth. So each
revolution of the transmission engages that number of teeth on the DRIVEN gear.
To make the DRIVEN gear spin faster you have to decrease the
number of teeth on it. From that it is simply a ratio issue. If you currently
read 60mph and want to read 70mph, the speedo cable (GEAR) has to spin faster -
thus the number of teeth needs to be less than what you have. How much ?
Divide the gear teeth you have by the desired speed (70) and multiply that by
the speed you currently read (60). (18 / 70) x 60 = 15.4. If this takes you out
of the range of gears available, you will have to change the drive gear also.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Art: I am referring to my 1972 Corvette Parts & Accessories catalog (P&A
30B, effective September, 1971). Here is what it says for 1956-1960
Corvettes, with the catalog part numbers:
With 3.70 axle: 3708699, 22 teeth, solid green nylon
With 4:11 axle: 3708143, 24 teeth, solid yellow nylon
The following are from a speedometer gear chart in this parts book, with no
applications given. I don't know if these will work in your car.
3860341, 18 teeth, Brown
3860342, 19 teeth, Natural
3987920, 20 teeth, Blue
3860344, 21 teeth, Red
3987921, 21 teeth, Red
3860345, 22 teeth, Green
3987922, 22 teeth, Silver
3860346, 23 teeth, Black
3960347, 24 teeth, Yellow
The two speedometer gears given for the 56-60 Corvettes assumes a 6.70x15
tire, which has an aspect ratio of about 80. You are using tires with an
aspect ratio of 75, so the 3.70 axle ratio gear would cause the speedometer
to read slightly fast. You would probably want a 23 tooth gear for the best
accuracy for 75 aspect ratio tires.
My current Corvette Central catalog does not list speedometer gears. You
might give them a call now that you have an idea of how many teeth you need.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/22/2023
Hello,
I have a 62 300 HP. I took the instrument cluster out of the car to fix the
tach. When I put the cluster back in and started to reattach the wires, I
decided to use the wiring diagram, even though I took pictures and labelled the
wires when I disconnected everything. I noticed that the wiring diagram in
ST-12, for the battery gauge, depicts all 4 red wires attached to the right
terminal and the black wire attached to the left terminal. However, when I
disconnected everything, one red wire (14 ga it looks like) was on the left
terminal with the black wire and the remaining 3 red wires were on the right
terminal. I decided to go with the wiring diagram. When I reconnected the
battery and checked everything out, I noticed that the battery shows that it’s
being charged when the headlights are on and the engine not running. I know
that someone asked a similar question and the advice you gave was to put all 4
red wires on the left terminal and the black on the right. In my case, the
three 12ga wires won’t reach from the ignition switch to the left terminal.
I’m going to go back to the original wiring configuration since the battery
gauge seemed to work OK that way, but I thought that it was strange that these
wiring diagrams have mistakes in them.
Thanks,
Chuck
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Chuck,
Yes, the ammeter wiring on the ST-12 and the GM 1960 Corvette Assembly Manual
has been incorrect for 63 years. I found out the same way you did.
That is exactly why we take before pictures.
I don't think GM will correct it after all this time.
I believe the NCRC Judging Manual does note this standards error.
Aren't C-1s a fun hobby?
Regards,
Bill Huffman Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The ammeter is showing current drain or charging of the battery during
operation of the car. The ammeter should NEVER show the battery being
charged when the motor is off (generator not generating) unless the ammeter
is connected backwards. If you connect any wire leading to a load (lights -
ignition sw - gages - ACCs - etc) to the power side of the ammeter (side the
battery is connected) the ammeter will not register a drain on your battery
when that load is activated.
Your observation, however, presents an interesting question. Looking at the
ST-12 wiring diagram you are led to believe the power terminal of the
ammeter is the inside terminal of the cluster. I inspected my 58 and the
input (12V) terminal is the outside terminal. Either way the ammeter will
register - it just depends on how you read the gage. Is a positive reading
indicative of current TO or FROM the battery? Since the gage is labeled
"BATTERY" I always considered it showing current to the battery. Positive
reading = current to the battery (charging) / Negative reading = current
from the battery (discharging). This may be wrong - but it agrees with how
my instruments are connected and operate. Connected like ST-12 indicates
yields - Positive reading = discharge / Negative reading = charging. I
would like to hear feedback from the other advisers.
To avoid confusion, refer to the ammeter readings as positive vs negative,
and connections as driver's side vs passenger side.
With the motor OFF - and the headlights ON:
If you get a POSITIVE reading this means your meter is
reading current FROM the battery - this
shows you are DISCHARGING the battery, not supplying current TO the
(charging) battery.
If you see a NEGATIVE reading this means
your meter is reading current TO the
battery - negative current TO the battery is the same as positive current
from the battery - you are DISCHARGING the battery.
PS: The wires on my 58 are bundled - 2 & 2 (4 wires total). There is no
way to separate a single wire (1) and connect it to the feed side of the
meter. See my above post.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chuck. When removing the Speedometer or Tachometer from a 58-62 Corvette
for service it is not necessary to remove any wiring from the instruments or
the oil pressure line from the oil pressure gauge. The instrument lights
easily pop out of the instruments, as necessary. Just keep track of the
wire colors and where they went. The left and right instrument clusters can
be removed from the instrument housing by removing two nuts on each side,
and this is what you should do. This allows the instrument housing to be
moved far enough aside and gives sufficient clearance so that the
speedometer and tachometer can be disconnected and removed from the
instrument housing. Use heavy towels to prevent the instrument housing from
scratching the steering column, the steering wheel turn signal housing, and
the steering wheel bell.
Another problem with the ST-12 and AIM schematics for the 61 and 62 models
is that they didn't upgrade the rear wiring to show two tail lights on each
side, rather than one. And one license light, rather than two.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/17/2023
I bought a 62 recently and will be joining your club soon.
My roll up windows are extremely hard to roll up and down. What is needed to fix
that? I have been told that this is normal but I would like an experts advice.
Would enjoy windows that are EASY to roll up or down if that is possible.
Thanks.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Yes, the windows can be hard to roll up and down but I doubt Chevrolet
planned it that way.
I suspect the problem is dried up grease and or rusty rails.
Remove the interior door handle, window cranks and arm rests. Remove the
door panel. There may be sheet metal covers over large access holes in the
door structure. With those off you can see the window mechanism, some
requiring mirrors. You can put the window crank on and watch ever thing
work.
If the problem is dry grease you can probably resolve the problem without
dismantling it.
If it is rusty you may get by with just adding grease, I use wheel bearing
grease because that is what I have and it works fine. Put lots of grease in
the rails and on the rollers. lubricate the crank mechanism also.
Since you have it apart that far I would also lubricate the door latch.
Keep us informed and don't hesitate to ask questions.
Verle Randolph
57 Corvette
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Ivar: Your problem most likely comes from the door glass rear window run
being too tight. This is a black painted steel U-shaped channel that mounts
to the inside end of the door with two large Phillips head screws with
captured external star washers that appear on the end of the door.
Originally it was lined with black velvet cloth that was glued in place with
contact cement. After a number of years of use the cloth wears out and
becomes dislodged from the steel channel and falls inside the door. It
usually is too worn to be re-glued back in place. Corvette Central sells a
replacement cloth liner, but in my experience it is too thick and causes the
window frame to bind in the channel. They also sell a new complete run with
the cloth installed. If this is what is causing your window to bind up, the
easiest solution is to remove the channel and spread it open so that the
window frame easily slides up and down in it. This is done by taking two
large screwdrivers and prying the channel open enough to allow the window
frame to easily slide up and down in it. To remove the rear window run, the
door panel and the rear access panel have to be removed, as explained by
Bill Huffman. While you are at it, lubricate all the sliders and joints, as
Bill explains.
Another problem with my C1's, in my experience, is that the passenger window
binds up at about 3/4 of the way up. To free it up, I have to pull the
window frame back and then finish winding it up. I don't know how to fix
this. But fortunately I seldom use this window.
One more thing. When replacing the door panel screws, gently snug them up.
If you get too aggressive with the tightening, you will strip the threads in
the door fiberglass. The problem is that the factory used #8 Phillips trim
screws that were designed to be threaded into metal, not fiberglass. The
correct screw would have a thread cutting notch cut into tip so it would cut
threads into the door fiberglass, rather than forcing threads into the
fiberglass and fracturing it. Examine the tips of the screws that attach
the access panels to the inside of the door, and you will see what i mean
(if they are the original screws). When I encounter a stripped door panel
screw, I fill the hole with JB Weld and then drill it out to the size of the
root of the door panel screw. I then grind a notch in the tip of the door
panel screw with a Dremel cut-off tool so that it cuts threads in the door
fiberglass rather than forcing the threads into it. Once the threads are
properly cut, you can use any trim screw in that position.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
There are numerous reasons the window is hard to raise and lower, but the
most probable is the lubrication of the rollers (4) that ride in the various
guide channels. These are nylon rollers that in time loose their lubrication
and no longer roll. I have included a diagram of the window regulator
assembly for your review. Two rollers engage the guide along the bottom of
the window assemble while two additional rollers ride in the front and rear
guide channels (these are not the felt lined channels the window itself ride
in). In time the lubricant in these rollers set and become like varnish (the
rollers no longer roll). This requires the window regulator assembly be
removed, cleaned and re-lubricated (not an easy job). Old lube can be
removed by soaking the assemblies in kerosene - use Lubripate to relubricate
the rollers and regulator bearing surfaces. Note the window itself can be
disconnected from the lower guide rail by 4 small screws that join the two
parts.
If the rollers have been bound up for some time - they may be worn flat. If
so they can be replaced (see ZIP Corvette supply).
**********
07/1/2023
You’re probably sick of answering tach questions but I’ll ask you another one
anyway because I didn’t see a previous answer for this exact problem. I have a
62, 300hp. The tach started to stick really bad in different places and never
went back to zero. I took the tach out of the car, cleaned some black gunk out
of it with brake cleaner and oiled the bearings with 3 in 1 oil. I tested it on
my work bench and it seemed to work just fine. After I put it back in the car,
there were problems right away. The tach is dead at zero for about the first 10
minutes that I drive, then it comes to life and works fine. It also makes a
ticking noise.
Thanks,
Chuck
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCAl Chapter Advisor:
Chuck: The C 1 Corvette tachometer works exactly like a speedometer. The
difference is that the tachometer is calibrated to read twice shaft speed
(the distributor that drives it turns at half engine speed) and a
speedometer is calibrated to read 60 mph at 1000 rpm shaft speed.
The tachometer consists of two main parts. The first part is a die cast
housing contains a shaft that connects the drive cable to a bar magnet. The
shaft has two bronze bushings that are permanently lubricated with grease.
With lots of use these bushings wear out when the lubricant dries up. Years
ago, you simply purchased a new die cast assembly, but that serviceable part
was discontinued many years ago. Speedometer shops are usually able to take
the shaft out and repair the worn out bushings. Worn out bushings may be
the source of the ticking noise. Worn out bushings may allow the bar magnet
to contact the speed cup (discussed in the next paragraph). Bushing wear
can be determined by grasping the end of the shaft where the cable connects
to it and see if it moves up and down, indicating excess bushing wear.
There should be no movement.
The second part is an aluminum cup, called the Speed Cup, that mounts on a
separate shaft over the bar magnet. The spinning bar magnet induces a
torque into the speed cup, which is connected to a shaft that goes to the
pointer. This shaft has a coil spring attached to it in the middle that
controls the movement of the pointer and returns the pointer to zero when
the engine is turned off. There are lubrication points on each end of the
speed cup shaft and they may need lubrication. The 3-in-one oil could be
used to lubricate these areas. The fact that your pointer sticks at zero
when starting out indicates the possible need for lubrication at the front
end of this shaft. The tachometer is calibrated by increasing or decreasing
the strength of the magnetism in the bar magnet. This can only be done by a
speedometer repair shop.
If the main shaft needs lubrication,but is not worn out, here is what I do.
I drill a small hole in the top of the die casing just where the threads
end. This puts you in the middle between the two bushings. I then use a
hypodermic needle on a syringe and inject a small amount of heavy gear oil
into this opening. Rock the unit end to end to get the oil in contact with
the bushings. This normally fixes a problem with dry bushings, in my
experience. The presence of dry bushings is indicated by the cable breaking
when the bushings seize up. Or a howling noise, indicating dry bushings.
If this happens, disconnect the cable immediately or severe damage to the
pointer (with speedometers) or damage to the speed cup and shaft can result.
Last, if nothing works, it is time for a professional to rebuild your
tachometer. Corvette Central offers a rebuilding service.
Answering tech questions is what we do, and we love it. Keep the questions
coming! We want you to enjoy your C 1 Corvette to the maximum. That is
what SACC is here for.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/19/2023
On a 1959 power glide Corvette when put in
the park position it keeps popping out.
Is there a fix for this, the linkage looks to be ok.
Thank you
Steve
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Steve: Possibly the rubber shift lever boot is incorrect or incorrectly
installed or is too stiff. Take it loose from the console plate and see if
that fixes the problem. Some of the new service replacement shifter boots
are very soft and installing one of those could solve your problem.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/18/2023
I recently had a new soft top installed on my ’59. The frames are original and
were sandblasted and powder coated. The top fabric, etc. was sourced from Al
Knoch and the weatherstripping came from Corvette Central. When folded down,
the top is too thick for the lid to close. What can be done to alleviate this
problem?
Dave
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
This is a common problem. If you try to force the deck lid to close - you can
break the lid “don’t force it”. My only suggestion is to employ two restraining
straps to pull the top down. These came standard on earlier models
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dave: The problem is that the fabric that Al Knoch uses to make today's
replacement Corvette convertible tops is MUCH thicker (I
estimate twice as thick) as was originally used by Chevrolet. The original
material was, literally, paper thin. As far as the appearance goes, the
top fabric is completely correct. The "fine grain" pattern in the vinyl and
the bindings are completely correct.
One of my 62's came with the original top fabric. When I folded it into the
top compartment, it literally fell into place. Because this car is a
"driver", when I replaced it I used a service replacement top kit I
purchased for $50 at a local car swap meet. The fabric pattern is the
incorrect "diamond point" pattern and it is thicker than the original
material but it works and it fairly easily folds into the top compartment,
but not as easily as the original top material did.
Then I purchased a 60 Corvette that already had a service replacement top
that needed replacement. So I went to Al Knoch and paid the price for a
white top with the proper date code embossed into the rear window (for $50
extra). I installed it myself with great difficulty (the pads he made at
the time are over one inch too short). When I folded it into the top
compartment, like you are experiencing, it wouldn't fit. So I pushed it
down as far as I could and slammed the cover down on it. That is all you
can do if you want to put the top down. The next problem happens when you
raise the top. It has deep seated wrinkles that don't easily go away. It
takes several days of very hot weather to take most of the wrinkles out.
The date stamp in the rear window is the next problem. Al Knoch cold
stamps the date into the rear window plastic. After a couple of years, the
window plastic has a "memory" and the $50 date code disappears. The
original date code was hot stamped into the window plastic and it is
permanent. I complained to Al about this, and he said to send the top back
to him and he would re-do it. Yeah, right!
For Al to fix the thickness problem, he would have to manufacture a thinner
material. Then the competition would point out that their material is
thicker and better. Very few people are alive today who
can recall how the original material performed. NCRS doesn't have a clue.
They should deduct for the wrong material. Al would then have to fix the
problem. This would be good for his business, because everyone would have
to purchase a new top.
My advice to you is to lodge a complaint with Al Knoch. Send him a copy of
my letter and scream at him. He knows the truth. Maybe if enough people
complain and NCRS gets its act together, he will fix it.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/16/2023
I have a 1960 doing a restomod. The rear end is housing is stock, stock axles,
stock leaf springs. How wide of a rim can I install on the rear end without
rubbing the inside? I have cragars for the fronts 15x4. I want cragars for the
rears? Thanks. J
From:
Michael Cappozio, Ohio Restorer:
J, with stock rear differential you can use a 7” wide rim with 4” backspacing
before any real worries. An 8” rim is pushing it. 225 tires are going to be
about the maximum width. A 235 can be used but with a good dip in the road, I.E.
a bump, pothole, etc., you risk hitting the wheel lip and cracking the quarter
panel at the bonding strip.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
J: The stock steel wheel for the C1 Corvettes is 15x5, not 15x4. I never
heard of a 15x4 wheel. Who would want it? The optional wheel was 15x5.5.
In my experience, the problem is not so much the wheel width as the tire
width. The problem is on the front. The wheel and tire may fit the front
fender just fine going straight, but turning into a driveway too fast and
too hard can result in the front tire contacting the fender lip and breaking
it. A short wide tire (aspect ratio of 60 or less) probably will not pose a
problem with fender breakage. I would not go with a wheel wider than 6
inches. Choose a tire that is proper for the wheel width you choose. Wide
tires on narrow wheels gets you nothing in performance. Make sure that the
wheel you choose doesn't have an offset different than stock. An offset
wheel will place undue stress on the small outboard front wheel bearing and
will result in premature bearing failure. If you don't have power steering,
wide tires make the car very difficult to steer.
Larry Pearson
From: Don Eckhart, Red River Chapter Advisor:
I believe ‘58 thru ‘60 are the same and I am running 17x7” with a 4”
backspace.
Don E.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I have run 15X7 wheels on my 57 for years with no problem. They need to have
the right backspace and I don't remember what that backspace is right now. I
do know that 1970 Camero 15X7 Rally wheels work with 215X15 tires and did
not rub. I ran with stock full cover hubcaps and no one could tell they were
Rally wheels. Very nice ride and much better handling.
Verle
**********
06/14/2023
Hi, my name is Mark I have a 57 Corvette and would like to know what are the
measurements of the front emblem between the hood and grill, and the cross flag
emblems in the cove? The front end is aftermarket, so I do not have existing
holes to check for repairs or evidence of holes on the inside.
Thank you for your expertise.
Mark
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The nose emblem (center) on my 54 (like a 57) is 3 3/4 in above the edge of
the fiberglass/grill interface.
The Cross Flags (center) is 10 in back from the wheel opening along a line 6
in above and parallel to the bottom cove trim.
Note: Is your car a F.I. ? The Cross flags were only on the F.I. cars I
believe.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
My unrestored 57:
Front emblem bottom edge is 3 inches above the chrome trim surround of the
grill opening.
The crossed flag center is 6 inches back from wheel well edge and 6 inches
above the lower cove trim.
Verle
**********
05/25/2023
Hello,
I am trying to locate a PROPER horn contact ring for my 57.
The repro ones the vendors have, do not work as they will not mate
with an OEM horn button (760805)).
The black spring steel retaining tabs are too short to accept the recessed
cavities cast into the horn ring. I believe the segmented mounting ring on
the back of the horn button could be machined down enough to allow
the dimples to engage. I don’t want to do this to my pristine OEM
button.
Any information or education or part supplier would be greatly appreciated.
I have attached a pic of a proper ring above, (forgive the quality) the
difference vis a vis the
new reproductions is obvious.
Thank You!
Keith
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Keith: Where did you get this improper reproduction horn contact? In my
experience, Corvette Central sells the right stuff. And if it is not right,
they will make it right. Their part number is 561122, and is is called Horn
Contact, 1956-1962. The cost in their latest catalog is $26.95. I am
quoting out of their latest hard copy catalog. You can go to their web site
catalog and should be able to get a close up picture of what they are
selling. Their web site is:
www.corvettecentral.com.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/22/2023
RE: 1957 Corvette
I am looking for hole location & diameter for the antenna on my 1957
Corvette. The car has a hole that was in the wrong spot. Car is now 100%
done. Need to drill a hole in the left rear febder. But don't know the
location. Perhaps I can get a measurement forn the chome of the taillight
to the edge of the hole, and of course the diameter.
Thanks so much.
Bill
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The antenna hole is approximately 4" in front of the tail light . The hole dia
is 11/16in. See attached illustration. NOTE: The antenna mounts (bottom) on the
inner wheel well - check to see if those mounting holes are still there. Align
the fender hole accordingly.
**********
05/11/2023
Hello,
Is there schematics, drawings, or videos that are available to aid in
disassembly and reassemble a 1959 corvette hard top? Someone has done it that
would be willing to talk to me and answer a couple of questions?
Larry
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Larry,
As a longtime owner
of several C-1s with hardtops, my best advice is to talk to the experts
before damaging some very expensive parts to replace.
Both of these firms
do tech demonstrations at major shows such as Funfest at Effingham, IL, or
Bloomington 500 coming up later this month in Bloomington, IL.
Experts love to talk
at shows for free, their professional services cost money.
Good Luck with your
hardtop,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
05/08/2023
Hello,
I have just installed a newly rebuilt differential in my 1958 Corvette and I
can't find what the torque specifications are for the ten differential nuts and
the axle flange bolts. I am hoping the experts can help me out with these
specifications.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
John Spencer,
Red River Chapter Advisor:
I did not find torque specs on the Differential cover bolts - but the spec on
the axle companion flange is 150 - 190 Ft Lbs
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: The answers to your question are found in the Chevrolet passenger
car shop manuals. The nuts attaching the Differential Carrier to the 10
axle housing studs are to be torqued to 35-45 ft. lbs. Use a slide hammer,
as necessary, to install the axles into the axle housing until the outer
race of the bearing is seated against the shoulder in the axle housing. The
four nuts and split lock washers that attach the bearing retainer studs to
the axle housing should be "tightened securely". No torque number is
given. The five wheel lug nuts should be tightened in a cross sequence to
45-65 ft. lbs. Most tire shops are now using a torque wrench to tighten the
lug nuts instead of an impact wrench which, in my opinion, over-tightened
them. They do use an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts. It speeds
things up.
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The differential cover bolts are not under stress so they don't require a
great deal of torque. I use a socket and ratchet to tighten them, usually a
quarter inch drive with a short ratchet handle, until they are firmly set
against the cover.
Verle
**********
04/26/2023
I have a 1960 Corvette with solid lifters. My research indicates the solid
lifter cars came with a different pressure plate than those with hydraulic
lifters. Is the originally correct pressure plate available, and or is it
still necessary ?
Also if I do use a diaphragm style pressure plate does the gorilla spring work
the same?
Thanks,
Bob
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bob: I own a 230 hp all original 1960 Corvette and it came with a Borg and
Beck (B&B) style (3 arm) pressure plate, not a Diaphragm pressure plate. It
even still has the original clutch disk in it. At the time, it was believed
that the B&B type pressure plate could handle more horsepower, so all C1's
came with a B&B style pressure plate, no matter what the horsepower. Later
Mid Year Corvettes came with a diaphragm style pressure plate. Maybe they
re-designed it to handle high horsepower, I don't know.
If you use a diaphragm style Pressure Plate, the large assist spring cannot
be used. If you try to use it, the clutch pedal will go to the floorboard
and stay there. Diaphragm pressure plates offer a much lighter clutch pedal
effort and the large assist spring is not needed. Instead they used a much
lighter spring to prevent rattles, I am told.
I have not bought a pressure plate in many years, so I don't know what is
available. Try to avoid rebuilt units, but maybe that is all you can get.
The last new pressure plate that I bought was made by Borg Warner in
Brazil. It was a piece of junk. It disintegrated in the car while driving
on surface streets. I ended up reinstalling the old made in USA unit.
This was over 15 years ago.
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Borg & Beck pressure plates are available but I don't know if they are any
good.
Back in the 1950s and 60s Borg and Beck style pressure plates were the go to
for high performance.
Now days diaphragm pressure plates will work ok for our old cars.
I have had a diaphragm in my 57 for the last 20 some years and 40 some
thousand miles with no problem but I don't race it.
Verle
**********
04/10/2023
Hello,
I am trying to remove the axles in my 1958 Corvette to change my differential.
I have removed the rear brake hubs and brakes and the four nuts holding the
retainer on the inside of the brake baking plate. Using my slide hammer which
has two fingers or jaws I am unable to pull the axle, even after I repeatedly
sprayed the retainer and studs with a nut buster. I'm looking for other
suggestions on how to get them free after sixty-five years.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Some ideas:
Use a chain to FIRMLY secure the axle to the frame. There is give in the
springs that will reduce the slide hammer efforts
Try slide hammer
Try heavier slide hammer. Add weight to you slide hammer
Might whack the center of the axle with a heavy brass hammer . I know, the
wrong direction.
As a last resort heat the axle housing some, NOT red hot, then slide hammer.
I made a bigger/heavier slide hammer with a piece of all thread, and a pipe.
Longer throw (36" all thread), welded "things" to the pipe for weight.
Perseverance is necessary. The first time I removed axles from my 57 it took
a long time, lots of effort, trying multiple ideas.
Verle
**********
04/7/2023
Hi, do you have or do you know where I can get a template for the location of
the 1960 Corvette cove crossed flags?Just acquired a 60, and it doesnt have the
flags! I must have them ! LOL
thanks a bunch! Jerry
From:
Michael Cappozio, Ohio Designate:
Not sure if there’s a template, I may be wrong, but measurement is 5 3/8” up
from the lower stainless trim and 5” back from wheel lip to the first hole.
Measure your emblem to get distance for second hole as you emblems tend to be
inconsistent in that measurement and you end up having to file hole bigger to
fit.
From:
Bill Huffman Michigan Chapter President:
Jerry,
Remove the Dr & Pass
side splash shields located rearward of the front wheels.
Check the backside of
the cove panels where you should find the body filler they used to fill the
original mounting holes. Carefully push the body filler outward with a small
nail or drill bit to reopen the holes.
Good luck,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bill's excellent answer assumes that the emblems were removed and the holes
were filled. It is possible that the front clip or that body panel has been
replaced with an aftermarket part on your car and the holes were never
there. If so, you need to find an original 1958-60 car and and make a paper
template from it. There are no templates on the market that I am aware of,
and the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) for your car does not
give dimensions.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Center of flags is on a line 3/8 in below the center spear, 6 1/4 in from the
edge of the cove. See photo attached.
**********
03/14/2023
Hello,
I have a 62 hardtop question. I would like to replace the hardtop header bar
weatherstripping. The rubber is cracked, hard and brittle. I have removed some
of the rubber. It seems that GM glued the rubber on, in addition to using the
P-Clips and rivets. Is there an easy way to get this rubber off? Do I need to
remove the header bar from the roof to do this job or can I replace the weather
stripping with the header bar on the roof?
Thanks,
Chuck
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
I
have simply refurbished C1 tops by refreshing their weatherstripping and I have
totally disassembled them. You do not need to remove the header bar to replace
the header weatherstripping. You have to simply drill out the rivets, then
scrape the weatherstrip off (or use a glue release agent). When replacing the
weatherstripping - if you do not have push rivets - you can tap the holes and
use shallow head machine screws.
**********
03/04/2023
Does anyone have a diagram showing the correct location for the Under Dash
Support Rods. Needed for my 1961 C1.
I am completing a 7 year frame off and have no recollection of their placement.
Thank you,
Archie
From:
Larry Pearon, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Archie: I am not familiar with the term "under Dash Support Rods". However
the answer to your question should be given in the 1961 Assembly Instruction
Manual (AIM). The AIM for your 1961 Corvette is a collection of engineering
drawings that instructed the assembly line on how to build your car. The
AIM for your car is available in the form of a reprint from all of the major
Corvette restoration parts suppliers. I recommend Corvette Central,
http://www.corvettecentral.com.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
SEE ATTACHED EXPLOSION OF DASH - FROM CORVETTE ASSEMBLY MANUAL
**********
02/28/2023
1960 corvette automatic trans lockout relay 904
Does any rebuild this
relay.
I have power going in activating the point but not 12 volts going out to the
starter.
Thanks
Steve
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Steve,
If you are looking
for the 1960 Neutral Safety Switch, the switch is sold new, made off GM
tooling by Paragon Reproductions.
It is their P/N
13287, and all the linkage and brackets are also available.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
01/13/2023
Looking for help,
Just purchased a 1959 Corvette that had a restoration started in 1999, then
the owner lost interest after 1 year. It sat for
19 years covered in his barn before I purchased it, know I'm in process of
finishing the restoration and am trying to find the correct amount of pads
and there placement on the frame. Is this something you can supply me info /
pictures of? I've attached a pic of the car how I received it.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:Get
a copy of Chevrolet's service manual "ST-12" it is a must for anyone restoring
an early Corvette. Your body shims (8) are shown in Fig-103, Pg.1-49
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Ron: To see the location of the shims (not pads) that were attached to the
top of your frame when your Corvette was assembled at the factory, you need
to acquire a copy of the 1959 Corvette Assembly Manual (AIM), which can be
purchased from all the major Corvette parts and accessories dealers. The
AIM contains a complete set of engineering drawings that illustrate how the
1959 Corvette was assembled at the factory. Section 1, Sheet 1.00 shows the
locations of the shims, which consist of a black rectangular fiber shim,
about 1/4 inch thick, and a rectangular steel shim, about 1/16 inch thick.
The number of the steel shims that were placed on top of the fiber shim was
determined at the factory, and no procedure is given on how the factory
determined how many steel shims were needed. The correct number of shims
was attached to the top of the frame at each location using 1/2 inch masking
tape. This was done prior to the body being set on the frame and bolted in
place.
The picture that you show of your car has the body on the frame, and I
assume that the body is bolted to the frame with the original shims in
place. If so, you do not need to determine how many shims are needed. They
are already there. The black fiber shims do not deteriorate. They are not
made of rubber, like was used on the 1963 and later Corvettes, and which can
rot. If you need shims, contact Corvette Central.
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, REd River Chapter VP:
Frame shims are often changed to adjust door gaps, front and rear.
Don't be surprised if your door gaps are not good and you have to add shims.
Verle
**********
01/29/2023
I purchased a pair of roller-bearings a few years back for my 62. I have
been trying for 3 years to make these work with no luck. The bearing seals
jam against the inner races causing the seals to rotate. and fall out. The
company says to only install the seals halfway which does not work. The
seals fall out backing out of the garage. The guys at the company say they
use them frequently and are no help. I have used 5 different brands of
seals, none of which clear the lip sticking out of the inner races. I have
received numerous suggestions all of which involve modifying the hubs to
make a Chinese bearing work that is obviously made for some other
application , not automotive. My car has Moog replacement hubs, last
available in the 60's and much heavier than the GM hubs. I purchased a pair
of OEM hubs (another suggestion) but the same problems exist. The bearings
simply do not fit.
Has anyone made these roller bearings or any other for that matter, work
on non-trailer queen cars? These have been far more trouble than the
ball bearings were in the past 47 years I have owned the car.
Thanks,
Gary
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Gary: Thank you for sharing your experiences with front roller wheel
bearings on your C1 with sacctech.
I currently have 13 cars and have owned 5 C1's over the years and currently
own a 60, two 62 Corvettes, a 56 Chevy, a 51 and a 53 Oldsmobile and a 55
Cadillac. All of these cars have ball bearing wheel bearings. I have never
had a ball bearing wheel bearing failure on any car that I have maintained.
Over the years, I purchased a 51 Oldsmobile, the 56 Chevy, and a 62 Corvette
that had bad wheel ball bearings, usually one or two for the four, when I
acquired them. It is my opinion that ball bearing wheel bearings will last
the life of the car if properly maintained. Over a ten
year period, I used to slalom race (SCCA SOLO 2) one of my 62's and never
had a wheel bearing failure. In my experience, roller bearings are much
more tolerant of maintenance neglect, and maybe that is what you are looking
for. The early cars require very frequent chassis lubrication, every
1000-2000 miles. Today's
cars are virtually maintenance free, and owners are used to doing nothing
other than changing the oil. You can't do that with a C1.
In my experience, ball wheel bearings are much easier to clean and properly
pack with grease than roller bearings, because the inner race can be
removed, giving full access to the balls in the cage. The inner race is
permanently attached to the rollers in roller bearings, and it is very
difficult for me to properly clean and re-pack them. But I have never
experienced a roller wheel bearing failure.
My advice to you is to go back to ball bearing wheel bearings. Use an
original hub.
Larry Pearson
**********
01/10/2023
I am a new owner of a 1960 Corvette. A very nice mostly numbers
matching car. The previous owner put masking tape on the wheel nubs to
help keep the original hub caps on. What is the correct way to make them
go on tight?
Thanks Bob
From:
Don Brittin, Central Regional Representative:
1st) check if the wheels are correct.
Must have the 3 small retainer bumps in the inside of the outer part of the
wheel.
The tape may not hurt, but is only useful to tighten the fit a
bit, but should not be necessary.
Donald J Brittin
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Reproduction 56-62 wheel covers have a reputation for being
loose. I have never experienced a factory original wheel cover
from these years for being in the slightest bit loose. If
masking tape on the nubs works for you, use it. However, there
is another problem with loose wheel covers, and that is the
wheel cover will move in such a way as to put pressure on the
rubber valve stem, possibly damaging it or breaking it off. If
this happens, the only solution is to install metal valve stems.
You should keep your eye out for a set of original wheel
covers. You should be able to purchase a decent set for around
$400. Many C-1 Corvette owners are installing after market
wheels that don't use wheel covers. When you encounter one of
these cars, you should ask the owner if he has the original
wheel covers. He will probably never use them and likely will
be happy to sell them to you. The 1959-62 wheel covers have the
slots around the perimeter and are all the same. The 56-58
Corvette wheel covers did not have slots around the perimeter.
Larry Pearson
**********
01/06/2023
I want to verify and take pics of my vin number, on the frame. I plan on cutting
a hole in the floor. Are there measurements I could use? I've tried the mirror
and light under the car, but to no avail. Jim
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Jim,
Before you cut a hole
in your car floor on the outboard of the driver seat, about even with your
hip joint, directly above the frame rail, I have three questions.
1) Have you tried
taking a picture with your i-phone, with & w/o flash?
The I-phone
should fit even if you have to remove the cover
2) Have you tried
transferring the frame number to a piece of paper by rubbing a # 2
pencil lead lightly across it in that area?
3) Is there some
compelling reason why you need to verify that the frame number matches
the VIN tag, or are you just curious?
Why not try a camera
on a cable to your i-phone as a solution.
Beats cutting
fiberglass if you don't need to.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jim: I have three C 1's and have never needed to do this. Do not
cut a hole in the floor. I have seen one frame with the body removed.
The characters are quite large, over 1/4 inch high, and were stamped
into the frame top with such force that the frame metal deformed,
creating a depression that will allow water and debris to collect,
promoting rust where the stamping is. If your frame has a lot of rust,
the stamping may not be readable, no matter what.
The stamping is located under the driver's seat. The fiberglass floor
pan is somewhat flexible in this area. I suggest that you make up two
wedges out of wood and force them between the frame and the floor pan to
give you more room to clean off the frame top and view the area with a
mirror. You may have to use a rust removing chemical based on
phosphoric acid, like Navel Jelly, to clean the rust off for better
viewing. If you are successful with this, apply grease to the cleaned
area to prevent future rusting.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
What year is your car? What is the condition of the car (Body-interior
intact or disassembled / engine intact or removed - steering column in place
or removed). The location of the VIN stamp is not exact, and there are
braces running under the floorboard where the stamp is located. I don't
recommend cutting the floor. You don't have to totally remove the body -
you can remove all mounting bolts and lift the body on one side (driver's).
**********
01/06/2023
I have a 1960 Corvette that my Dad has given to me for restoration.
Unfortunately the car was disassembled 20+ years ago and I was not involved in
the disassembly. I have purchased several restoration books but haven’t seen the
detail I’m looking for yet. What is the best reference books hopefully with
pictures that show details of how parts are assembled. Thansk
Thanks,
Kris
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Kris,
I have disassembled
and reassembled several C-1s completely over the years.
I have found the best
illustrations for my 1960s in the 1960 GM Assembly Manual.
It has GM P/Ns for
components and fasteners plus torque & lube information.
According to a
chapter member who was a production line engineer in St Louis starting in
1959, if an installation takes you more than 9 minutes, your assembly
process is incorrect. That was production station to station line speed.
The assembly manual and the1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12, both
available on-line, should answer 99 % of your questions.
The Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12 can be found at:
chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/5362csg/
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kris: You need to acquire a copy of the 1960 Corvette Assembly Instruction
Manual (AIM). This manual is a collection of official engineering drawings
prepared by Chevrolet Motor Division that details the complete assembly of
the 1960 Corvette as was done at the Flint, Michigan Corvette plant. It
shows every part used to make the 1960 Corvette, including screws, bolts,
nuts, washers, rivets, sealants, and adhesives. These Assembly Manuals are
available as reprints from all the major Corvette parts suppliers. Also,
you should obtain a copy of Corvette Servicing Guide,Chevrolet publication
ST-12. This is the only official Chevrolet shop manual for the 1953-62
Corvettes. This will help you service your car once you get it assembled.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Kris - I agree with Larry a 1960 assembly manual will be invaluable for your
project as well as the service manual ST-12. In addition, log into Paragon
Corvette and request a copy of their parts catalog. In addition to parts you
may need their catalog contains numerous illustrations / assembly breakdowns
that will help you assemble your Corvette Kit properly. Good Luck
**********
01/02/23
Hi guys - my 1954 has been fully restored except for top. My quandary is what color because the existing top is black but the frame is tan. As I understand, 1954 tops were tan, but I also understand that supply issues resulted in some issues. How can I find out which color top I need? Attached is build plate. I’ve owned my Corvette since 1967, with frame off restoration ending in 2019 (just before pandemic).
Thanks, mike
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: My
54 top is tan. There are a lot of variations undocumented - but - all the tech
references I have spec the 54 top to be tan. Also - all reference docs report
the tops to match the frames. Since your frame is tan I suspect your original
top was tan. All this being said - unless you are going for NCRS judging - it’s
your car - put the color top on you want.
**********
12/20/2022
My 1956 radiator core support had a large hole cut in the bottom
of it in line with the radiator drain. Thinking that it looked
ugly, I had a welder remove the drain hole section from a later
solid axle core support and weld it into my 1956 core support.
I'm thinking that when I did this several years ago, I should
have done more research. I am now thinking from what I see in
the assembly manual that the 1956 core support may not have had
a drain hole in the bottom. Is that correct?
Thank you for all of your help,
Michael
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chaprter Advisor:
Attached is a photo of a core support - supposedly for 53 thru 57 - you can see
a drain port where the radiator pitcock is located. My 54 has the same feature
- but i can't swear that a 56 does. I will contact some 56 owners and get a
more definitive answer.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Michael,
I think that this
e-bay item will answer your question regarding what your core support should
look like. It has pictures of an NOS core assembly.
**********
12/19/2022
Hello- My name is Kyle and I have a 61 fuelie corvette. We just finished
putting it back together and after it warms up and the choke comes off it idles
too low and putters and sometimes stalls out. Do you guys know of any ways to
get the idle up after it warms up?
Thanks!
Kyle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kyle: I assume that you have a 7017320 unit on your car. This unit and all
previous units did not have a choke. The 7017355 and 360 units introduced
on the 1962 Corvette had a true electrically heated choke. The 320 unit had
a Cold Enrichment Assembly, which looks like a choke but is not a choke.
However, it does control the fast idle cam on the top of the Air Meter. It
has an internal electric heating element that, through a link to the fast
idle cam, moves the fast idle cam. When fully warmed up, the fast idle cam
no longer controls the idle speed. At that point, it is controlled by the
Idle Speed Screw. That is the large spring loaded screw on the side of the
Air Meter. You need to procure a copy of the Corvette Servicing Guide,
Chevrolet publication ST-12 and go to page 6M-7 and review the IDLE SPEED
AND FUEL section on that page before adjusting this screw. ST-12 is
available as a reprint from all Corvette supply sources.
If your unit idled just fine and suddenly lost its hot idle, the problem
could be with the Air Meter itself, and adjusting the Idle Speed Screw is
not the proper solution. In that case, remove the air meter from the plenum
and inspect the area in front of the brass throttle valve. There are some
small openings in the aluminum casting that can get plugged up with the
brown sludge that coats the inside of the plenum after a lot of use. These
small slots provide a small vacuum signal to the Fuel Meter to cause it to
provide fuel at idle. The Idle Speed Screw adjusts the amount of this
vacuum signal that goes to the Fuel Meter. If this us the problem, use
lacquer thinner and a Q-tip to carefully remove the sludge blocking the
openings. Be careful to not damage the shape of the openings.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/11/2022
I am refreshing the motor in my 1956 corvette vin #E56S002002. I saw where early
56 engines were painted red. My biuld date is April
17 so
what color is my engine supposed to be? thank you, Samuel
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Samuel: The 1956 engines were all painted red, including the sedans. I own
an all-original 1956 Bel Air sedan and the engine is painted red. This
engine has the stamped steel rocker arm covers and the word Chevrolet is
highlighted in silver paint. They sell red paint for the 56 engines and the
color is correct.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/10/2022
In March
1954 a
1953 Corvette was parked in a parking lot across the street from the hotel that
the owner lived in. His name was A. J. Noll and he was the owner of the local
General Motors dealership here in little old Macon, Missouri, population 4,000.
Me being a nosey senior in highschool I went over to check it out. Well would't
you know the keys were in it. So what do yoy think I did, yep, I got in , got
it started and put it in gear, then I heard this loud crash, that darn Corvette
jumped right into that solid brick wall in front of it. I shut the key off and
jumped out and went home. Someone saw me and ratted me out. I have the repair
service sheet from the shop and also a copy of the payed bill. In March of 1954
no one in Macon knew anything about fiberglass, the shop foreman made some phone
calls and was told to use wood putty to repair the damage, so that means someone
out there who thinks he has a pristine Corvette could be in for a surprize. I
wold like to know if you have the knowledge to track down that car, that is if's
it's still around. I have always wondered how a small dealer like A. J. Noll
living in Macon, Missouri with a population 4,000, could you be of any help or
could you direct me to someone who could help. Thanks
George
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
George,
Without the VIN
number you have little or no hope in finding this automobile.
A 1953 Corvette VIN
number would be E53F001 _ _ _.
The last three digits
will be 001 thru 300.
The repair service
sheet & the copy of the paid bill should both contain the VIN number of the
vehicle you wrecked,
SACC Member John
Hutchins maintained a 53-55 Corvette registry until about 2010 when it was
taken over by Brett White.
Hemmings Magazine
also has a 53-55 Corvette registry.
Good luck finding
your needle in that haystack.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From: Bruce Fuhrman, Past Club Secretary: I suggest that you start
with A.J. Noll and see what he delivered (Macon, MO) to in June
1953. Of he is dead, try a deferent dealer. If all fails, try '53-'55
registry. See what was delivered in"53 to Macon, MO. There was only 300
delivered!
You said that I have the "repair service" agreement. Is the S/N on it? They
used the block #.
Cheers.
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
12/08/2022
Hi, can someone help for support, I’m looking for.
56-62 corvette Center Floor Support - LEFT – Fiberglass
56-62 corvette inner Fiberglass rocker panel - Press Molded –
LEFT
Thanks Fred
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Check out this
Corvette Central link
If you don't find it
there, contact Paragon Corvette Vintage at (800) 882-4688.
They sell original
used fiberglass panels from their in-house salvage stock.
Send them a picture
of your broken parts needing replacement or the panels around the part you
need but don't have.
Good luck in your
search.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
1956 Soft top.
The weatherstrip is held / clamped into position with the
retainers and screws which attach to the “t nuts” in the header bar. Perhaps
there is another method of retaining this weatherstrip onto the header that I am
not aware of? The terminologies on the pics certainly imply some type of
fastening is used to retain the weatherstrip into position.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kim: I have installed several tops on 1959-62 Corvettes, but not on a
1956. I was not aware that these T-nuts were a serviceable part. They
always were in the header and could be re-used. You need one of these
T-nuts for every slot in the weatherstrip retainer. The retainer became a
single long part on the later Corvettes. The retainer also holds the top
fabric in place. As I recall, there is a tacking strip on each end of the
header to retain the ends of the top fabric.
Larry Pearson
**********
Hi, wondering when top flight inspections are done to a 1962 corvette are frame
vin #s checked to see if they match tag?
Dale
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
No NCRS judging sessions look for frame stamped VIN numbers.
All NCRS flight judging are done with the car setting on the ground.
Verle
**********
11/3/2022
I put a disc brake conversion on my 59 some 20 years ago. Just recently I
noticed that my right front caliper was dragging. Since the flex lines were
part of the kit, I replaced them with stainless steel flex lines. This did not
resolve the dragging issue, so now my question.
Current brakes conversions
still use the same single piston caliper but none of the supply houses sell
individual calipers nor do they indicate what type of GM caliper is used. They
appear to resemble the caliper of a 68 Camaro but I can’t find any literature
that will definitely confirm this. I am sure that since these brake conversions
have been on the market so long someone must have had to replace parts for them.
So does any tech adviser know what brake caliper is used on the conversion
kits?
Tnx
Paul
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Paul: All disc brake pads "drag" on the rotors, because disc brake systems
have no mechanism to lift the pads off the rotors when the brake pedal is
released like drum brake systems have with their brake shoes. Are you
saying that your right front caliper does not release its pressure on the
pads when the brake pedal is released, resulting in the car pulling to the
right all the time? Some times the flexible rubber hose to a brake cylinder
or caliper develops a problem where it blocks the line pressure from
releasing when the brake pedal is released. But you say that you replaced
the flexible lines to your calipers, and the problem persists. The only
thing left is the caliper itself. I have never heard of a disc brake
caliper behaving like this. However, if a caliper leaks brake fluid on its
pad, the coefficient of friction on the pad changes and the pad will grab
when the brakes are applied. Is this the problem you are having? If so,
you need to rebuild or replace the leaking caliper so it does not leak and
replace the pads on both sides so they are the same.
I always advise people replacing drum brakes on their cars with a disk brake
system to find out who made the calipers and what pads are needed when they
have to be replaced. I have heard that some disk brake conversions use Ford
Pinto calipers and pads on the front. Where did you buy your disc brake
system 20 years ago? Did you install it yourself?
Larry Pearson
From: Don Brittin, Central Regional Representative:
Paul, Corvette Central uses the Camaro front disc assembly. CC sent
me two left front calipers. I just went to the local Chevy dealer
got the exact replacement for the right side. The set up uses dual
master cylinders instead of the single circuit that was stock. You
MUST have a really good proportioning valve to balance the brake
pressure to the calipers.
Likely this is an adjustment issue.
Don
**********
10/31/2022
My car was assembled on on
April 18, 1960. Car 06443.
What should the stencil date be on the frame. Judging manual really does not
mention it.
Thank you
Rick
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Rick: Your frame was manufactured by AO Smith, dip painted with gloss
black asphalt based paint and stenciled in red with the AO Smith house
part number 707190-XX and the date of manufacture in another line under
this part number. The "XX" is the production batch number. The first
1953 batch number started out with nothing or -1. A friend of mine's 55
is -5. My late 62 is -52. I own an all original un-restored 1960,
#7575, but the car came from New Jersey and the stencil is completely
gone, replaced with surface rust. The stencil appears upside down on
the frame under the driver's seat. They used a paint brush to slop the
red paint onto the stencil. There can be runs in the red paint.
I am surprised that NCRS does not have the information on this for you.
They obsess about everything else. Contact the NCRS Team Leader for
1960 and see if he can help you. Corvette Central sells some stencils
for the 63-67 Corvettes, but nothing for C1's. I had to make the
stencil for my 1962 using a stencil kit from a stationary store. I did
this when I restored my 1962 back in 1974. before anyone knew, or cared,
anything about this stencil. Fortunately, the original stencil marking
was still readable.
Larry Pearson
**********
10/30/2022
Tech, I have a 1959 vette (member #2448) and am looking for someone
who might have a dvd I could rent or borrow to look at the
installation of the new top that I need. Thanks for any help. Craig
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Craig: Contact Al Knoch Interiors at
http://www.alknochinteriors.com or
1.800.880.8080. They manufacture a convertible top and pads for your
Corvette. They also sell a video that will show you how to install the top
and pads. Installing a convertible top on your top frame is not a simple
matter, however, and I suggest that you have a professional do the
installation. You will likely encounter problems with your top frame that
you will not be able to fix without help.
Larry Pearson
**********
0916/2022
I did a Frame Off Restoration on my 62 Corvette. Everything was fine. Then
one evening I turned on my Headlights & noticed I Nad NO Dash Lights. I
checked Fuses. Replaced Headlight Switch.
Nothing. I can't figure it out. If someone can help me. That would be
great. Thanks
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
The
headlight switch knob & shaft has three positions when pulled:
In) All
lights OFF,
Mid)
parking & taillights ON,
Out)
headlights & taillights ON.
The
headlight switch knob & shaft also has three positions when rotated:
Full CCW-
courtesy light ON regardless of pull position,
First
detent CW- Courtesy light OFF but dash & clock lights ON if in Mid or Out
position,
Turning
the knob further CW, it is a dimmer switch for the dash & clock lights that
range from bright to Off as it rotates CW to the last detent or stop
position.
If this doesn't fix your
issue, look for a broken or disconnected wire in the dash & clock light
circuit.
Regards,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Dash lights are powered from the
headlight switch. Simply turning on the headlights will not power the dash
lights unless the light switch knob is turned. The light switch has a rheostat
to brighten / dim the dash lights as you turn (twist) the light switch knob.
Twist the knob ( clockwise and counterclockwise) one direction will exhibit a
click at the end of its travel - this is the full bright position. If you still
have no dash lights - test the feed off the light switch for 12V. If no voltage
pull your light switch and test contacts in the various switch positions
**********
09/15/2022
I opened up the fuel filter bowl to clean out the bowl and when I reinstalled
it and started the engine the bowl fill completely to the top. See picture.
This is not typical of how it was before. In the past the fuel alway seemed to
be below the bronze filter.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Eugene: The GF 124 filter element you show is not made of bronze. It is a
brown molded paper assembly. The more recent GF 124 is made of corrugated
paper, much like an air filter element. This design has more surface area
to trap dirt, but does not look like the molded brown design. If your car
is being judged by NCRS, the brown element has the correct look.
The element you have is installed by pushing it on a tubular extension on
the bottom of the top cover. That way it will not fall into the glass bowl
like you show in your picture. Use the proper gasket size to seal the glass
bowl to the top cover.
When operating, the fuel normally does not fill the bowl to the top.
Larry Pearson
**********
09/14/2022
Gents,
I have a 1959 C1, purchased in Fla. and in the process of titling
in NC….
“Oh what fun”
Can you tell me the welding Method used in
fabricating a frame in 59?
I assume manual MIG or Stick?
Larry
(Member)
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor:
In those days I would guess it was stick welding.
Why do you ask?
If it has cracks I would weld it with MIG.
Verle
**********
09/09/2022
Hello
I had no headlights the other night. Dash lights are working
Any suggestions. I am not a mechanic but have had he car 42 years
Thank you
Myles
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Myles: The headlights are not fused. The headlight switch has an
automatically resetting circuit breaker built into it. If the headlights
flash on and off, the circuit breaker is sensing an overload and breaks and
re-sets. But you don't say this is happening. The headlight switch also
had a dimmer rheostat built in that controls the dash lights brightness,
which you say works. There is a large multi-pin connector that plugs into
the top of the headlight switch, and maybe that has become dislodged.
You can remove the headlight switch assembly and pry it open to check out
the headlight circuit breaker contacts. To remove the switch, disconnect
the battery first. There is a spring loaded button on the bottom of the
switch assembly. Depress it with your finger while pulling on the headlight
knob and the headlight knob and shaft will pull out of the switch. With the
knob removed, the switch assembly retaining hex nut is accessible and can be
removed with a socket wrench. The small short fuse on the top of the switch
assembly is for the dash lights only. If the headlight switch is ok, then
the problem is in the wiring to the headlights.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The High Beam lights are not
fused separately from the Low Beam. The only thing between the two is the
dimmer switch. Power is delivered to the switch - which in the low beam
position contacts the Low Beam Bulbs. When switched to High Beam it simply
makes additional contact to the High
Beam bulbs (it does not break the contact to the low beams). I think it would
be very unlikely both low beam bulbs burn out at the same time - so I suspect
the Dimmer Switch is not making contact with the Low Beams. It is the 18 GA Tan
wire on the dimmer switch. If you have power at the switch - then you probably
have a broken contact elsewhere. The Tan wire goes directly to the Low Beam
Bulb contact.
**********
08/17/2022
I am installing two four barrel carb on my 59 corvette and found that
the aluminum manifold has a small crack in the center under the metal
plate on the underside of the manifold. I put water on the inside and it
seeped through. Can this be repaired, and how would I do that. It’s
also in line of the bolt hole, is that a problem? Don’t know if aluminum
manifolds can be welded, like other aluminum, or is there some other way
to repair it? Sure hope so. I attached some photo’s. Thank you for your
valuable information and thank you for the wonderful work you are doing.
Your help is invaluable. Mike
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Mike,
Your
intake could be Heli arced, but you would need to regrind the intake
surfaces that mount to the heads afterward. That looks like a stress crack
to me, so I think re-grind is important. It should also be pressure tested
for other cracks or porosity.
Good luck
with your project.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I agree with Bill, a heliarc/TIG welder can weld aluminum.
Look for an independent welding shop/job shop. Talk to them about their
experience with welding car parts. Different alloy of aluminum from
aviation.
After welding the manifold may be warped. It may be warped now causing
the crack. An automotive machine shop would be able to true it.
Good luck.
Verle
**********
08/13/2022
- The left front hard
top pin must be forced into the windshield header. This causes the rear
left rear hardtop pin, that slides into the chrome receiver at the rear edge
of the door to not fit. The windshield has one rubber “spacer” at the rear
of the frame. Only one. The car has not had its final frame mounting
adjustments and It could be that the door opening on that side may need to
be “spread open” a bit. Any thoughts?
- This car had a dealer
installed radio. The antenna hole was incorrect. That was filleed during
body work. What is the correct location of the antenna hole?
Is there a measurement from the chrome edge of the
tail light assembly? Also was the hole centered on the tail light
assembly front to back?
- As a bit of
information: All 1957 Corvettes in western Washington were sold by GM
through a Distributor. TAD DAVIES CHEVROLET. One could order a new
Corvette from any Dealer, but Tad Davies go a cut. For that privilege, Tad
Davies had to carry 40 or so new Corvettes at all times. As a result Tad
Davies did not order the radios as factory equipped on all the new corvette
inventory. Hence, this one was dealer installed.
In those days, cars were available to be “adjusted”
to the Buyer. IE, hardtops were taken off, white walls removed. Soft
top color swaps, etc.
I am looking for two Tad Davies license plate
frames!!
Hope to hear for some of you experts!
Bill
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bill:
1. Before installing the soft top fabric, the frame must be adjusted to fit
the door glass with the door weather stripping installed. Even before that
the door window stops must be adjusted so that the door windows come up to
the correct height. This is best done with a hardtop installed. If you
don't have a hard top, no dimensions are published, so you have to make the
measurements from any 56-62 Corvette. The soft top side frame has slotted
holes where it attaches to the header to allow the length to be adjusted,
within small limits. There is no rubber "spacer" on the header from the
factory. Are the door gaps correct? You cannot "adjust" the door opening.
Was your car in a bad accident and not properly repaired? I have installed
several soft top frames on C1's and they always could be made to fit.
2. Back in 1957 it was common for dealers to order the sedans for dealer
inventory without a radio or heater, because three different radios and
three different heaters were available, and it was not known what the
potential customer would want. The correct Corvette radio is the Wonder Bar
radio, which a dealer could order and install. It is a very difficult
installation for the dealer, and in my experience, they took short cuts and
left parts off. The parts are: the radio, a support bracket that supports
the radio to the dash board, a ground wire to the right rear engine block
rocker arm cover screw, two heavy woven ground straps from the front engine
mount bolts to the frame (one on each side), five chrome and stainless steel
radio shield components plus chrome plated mounting hardware, four "L"
brackets to support the lower radio shields to four exhaust manifold bolts,
coaxial antenna cable from the radio to the trunk, a special antenna mast
assembly with a woven ground strap that goes to a body to frame bolt (this
is to make the frame the necessary ground plane for the antenna to work),
static collectors in both front wheel hub grease caps.
To locate the antenna, make measurements from any 56-60 Corvette with a
factory antenna install. The rear fenders were all the same.
If you are planning to have your car judged by NCRS, dealer installed items
are
not permitted.
Bill: Five more radio items I left off my list: radio speaker assembly
with radio power supply; radio noise filter capacitors on the
generator, voltage regulator, ignition coil, and the instrument ammeter
battery lead.
Larry Pearson
**********
Hello.
I just found this site. I have a 62 corvette and would like to
install side cove trim and spears like the 61. How do you access the back side
of the front of the car? Especially as it gets close to the door.
Also
can you provide the spacing/placement of the spears?
Thank you,
Joe
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Joe: The 1958-61 stainless steel side cove trim cannot be installed on a
1962, because the front fender and door fiberglass shapes were changed to a
raised bead where the moldings went. The 1958-61 panels were flat where the
moldings were attached. If you try to grind the raised beads off, you will
completely penetrate the fiberglass and destroy the panels. You might get
by with grinding if you fill in the backside of the beads with fiberglass.
As far as the spears go, the 1961 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM)
shows on page A 13 all the hardware that is involved but not dimensions on
where to drill the mounting holes. To locate the holes you will have to
make a template from a 1958-61 with the spears removed. I have never tried
this, but access to the back of the fender is achieved by removing the metal
splash shield. It may be required to remove the inside kick panel to access
the rear of the fender area.
Corvette Central sells all the parts you will need.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Larry is absolutely correct on
the issue of the cove trim. I do not advise doing it at all.
I have attached three illustrations showing how the cove trim and spears are
attached.
1) the front portion of the cove molding is attached with clips that are
acessed on the back of the fenders, and secured wwith a washer and nut (see
detail C sheet4)
2) the section near the door uses a different clip secured by a screw (see
detail D sheet 4) When restoring my 58, however, I used the same clip used
on the front sections and accessed it through the interior kick panel.
3) the trim on the door is secured like the front fender sections and
accessed thru the door by removing the interior door panel.(see sheet 2)
4) the cove spear spacing - note there is a trim plate that goes inside the
cove that will give you the proper spacing of the spears (see sheet 3)
NOTE: the illustrations I have attached are from the Chevrolet Assembly
Manual. These are available from all the Corvette parts suppliers. If
you're going to work on your car - I highly recommend you purchase this
manual. Another excellent reference manual is the Corvette Servicing Guide
ST-12.
**********
07/10/2022
Hello!!
Just finished restoring a 1956 corvette with my husband and the help of a
few pros!! I am 5’4” tall and 125 pounds and can barely squeeze my legs
under the steering wheel. It’s so hard to work the gas and brake without
bending my leg sideways.
To make matters worse, the gas pedal is soooo hard to press down. It is a
265 dual carb.
Jim K. in PA helped restore it with my husband. We are heading to
Carlisle in August for its debut from driving it is going to be so hard for
me!!
Help!
Thank you!
Liz
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter President: Liz - Early
C1s are tight. I am 5'6" & I have a 54 that has a 4-speed. I had to pull down
the seat springs to give me enough room to move my legs to operate the clutch
and brake. Even with the shortened seat cushion I have to operate bow legged.
Some people choose to substitute the standard (17.2 in dia.) steering wheel for
an aftermarket one that is only 15 in. dia. I have attached the cockpit specs
for a 56-57 for you to review - make sure you have all the room GM intended.
PS: beautiful car.
Here are the specs:
Liz - Also...; regarding the gas pedal - check the linkage position and
springs on the carbs. Are they set up for progressive throttle ??
**********
07/01/2022
I would like to do engine upgrade on 61 Corvette 245HP w/ Dual quads. Would like
to install
Duntov 097 cam, but I don’t want to remove the heads. Please advise
Thanks,
Glenn
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: You don't have to remove the
heads to stab a new cam. You have to remove the valve covers - loosen the
rockers to remove the push rods - remove the intake to reveal the lifter galley
and pull the lifters. Be sure you keep the push rods and lifters in order to
replace them in the same locations they came from. Check your lifters for wear
before you re-use them on a new cam. Use STP or a good engine rebuild lube when
putting everything back in place.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
It is not necessary to remove the heads.
Remove grill, fan shroud, radiator.
Remove oil filter for ease of access to the pan bolts.
Remove pan, balancer, water pump, front cover, distributor, intake manifold,
valve covers from engine.
This gives you access to everything you need to swap cams.
Remove spark plugs so the crank shaft is easy to turn.
You will have to back off the rocker arms so you can remove push rods and
lifters. You don't need to remove rocker arms unless you are changing them.
Check condition of rocker arm pivot balls and socket in the rocker arms.
Check push rod ends for wear.
A friend with experience in working on small block engines will be welcome
help and two sets of hands make things go faster.
With all parts, gaskets, tools in hand can easily be done in a day. A half
day if things to well.
You will need a puller to get the balancer off the front of the crank.
Verle
**********
06/29/2022
Suggestions for Alignment setting?..
Thanks
Larry
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Larry: The front end alignment specifications for 1953-1962 Corvettes is
found on page 14-1 of the Corvette Servicing Guide, Chevrolet publication
ST-12. This is the only official Chevrolet service manual for the 1953-1962
Corvette, and it is a"must have" for all C1 Corvette owners. It is available
as a reprint from all the major Corvette parts suppliers.
The front end alignment specifications for 1953-62 Corvettes are:
Caster: 2 degrees, plus or minus 1/2 degree.
Camber: 1/2 degree, plus or minus 1/2 degree
Toe-In (per wheel): 1/16"-1/8"
Larry Pearson
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Larry,
The C-1 alignment
article was published by Vette Magazine in their
June
2002 edition. It was an article by Richard F Newton.
Michigan Chapter
has a copy on our website,
www.solidaxlecorvettemi.com.
You may have to get our webmaster's
permission on signing in, but that's easy.
The article is a pdf file.
https://www.solidaxlecorvettemi.com/_files/ugd/0f0903_dd0ca5b654ea420bbc1d5ff55766753c.pdf
Same alignment works for both bias-ply and radials, but radials give a more
stable ride.
I take a copy with me to the alignment shop so the tech will
know how.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
06/19/2022
How to replace upper eye brow moldings on a 1959 Corvette,
Thank you.
Don
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Don: I am assuming that you are referring to the front left and right
upper outer grille moldings. These are chrome plated zinc metal die
castings. Corvette Central sells new replacement moldings. Each of the
four outer grille moldings have three 1/4-20 plated steel mounting studs
threaded into them. They attach to the fiberglass body from inside the
fender with 7/16 inch steel hex nuts which thread onto the studs. These
mounting nuts are easily accessible without removing the front wheels if
you turn the wheel in.
It is very possible that your hex nuts are rusted onto the mounting
studs, and trying to remove them will either break the mounting studs or
cause them to unthread from the moldings. If the studs break off close
to the castings, you will have to drill them out, a very difficult
procedure. New replacement studs can be made from 1/4-20 bolts of an
appropriate length by sawing the hex head off. New 1/4-20 nuts are
readily available from hardware stores. Use 1/4 inch flat and lock
washers under the mounting nuts. Apply grease on the end of the studs
before installing the nuts to prevent future rusting.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/14/2022
I purchased a restomod wonderbar radio for my 1959 corvette. I had a mobile
tech come out and install it. Warranty on installation is over. It worked fine
for awhile then just recently when I turn off the ignition to lock the radio
stays on. The radio company did three bench tests and found nothing wrong with
the radio. However, now it won’t turn off. I have to unplug it. Is it in the
ignition switch wiring?
-David
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Probably an ignition switch
problem. The radio itself don't know whether you have the car running or not.
As long as it has power (12V) it will stay on, unless turned off manually with
the Vol control knob. The circuit should be a 14Ga. pink wire off the ign sw -
to the fuse panel - 14 Ga Yellow, to the radio connector. The Gas and Temp
gauges are fed from the same Ign Sw terminal. Does the gas gauge drop to 0 when
you turn off the ignition? If so the radio is wired to an incorrect source
(12V). If NOT the ignition switch is faulty.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
David: locojohns (John Spencer) did an excellent job with his answer.
Additionally, turning the radio Volume control fully counterclockwise until
it clicks must turn the radio off, even if the ignition switch won't, and
you are saying it doesn't. If that is the case, the radio on/off switch is
defective and needs to be repaired, in addition to the problem with the
radio not turning off with the ignition switch, which it should. You say
that the radio worked fine until recently. It is hard to believe that two
separate things went bad at the same time.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/10/2022
Hi:
Anyone the San Fernando Valley, or L.A do fabulous minor body work
and painting?
Joe
Also, my Electronic Power Assist Steering
system has aggravated the cars tendency to wander and reduced its ability to
re-center from turns. I’m told this might be remedied by adding caster to the
upper A-arm pivot and installing a second shim. Can you tell me if adding shims
is a time consuming job or a simple one please?
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: Joe,
The Corvette Servicing
Guide ST-12 shows a clear picture of the 3733477 shims, which are the tapered
aluminum spacer that sets caster on C-1's.
They are located between the front
frame rail and the front suspension crossmember. After 60 years both shims could
be deteriorated due to galvanic action if you live near the ocean.
To
replace them, the front crossmember assembly must be unbolted from the frame (8
bolts on each rail) and dropped down far enough to clean & paint the affected
areas and reassemble with new shims & fasteners. Be careful of the gas & brake
lines if you do this.
However, I suspect that the accumulated
backlash/looseness in the steering system may be your biggest issue.
You
need to check for looseness in the steering gearbox, the two drag link bushings,
third arm bearing, tie-rod ends, kingpins & the wheel bearings all of which are
simpler fixes before you opt for the major surgery.
Good luck with your
project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
06/02/2022
I have 61 Corvette and all four hub caps keeps moving. It
will move enough that it would bend the valve stems. I rest all four hub caps
take the car out for a ride, come home and have to reset hub caps again..
I do have the correct rims for the car with four nubs on them. The wheel
cover only two delineated spaces on each hub cap. I was told I need four on each
hub cap. Please advise……Glenn
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I have had the same problem with four nub wheels.
May need to bend the clips out a (very) little.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glenn: Starting in 1966, I have owned one 1960 and three 1962's and never
have experienced the problem that you are having. Except for some minor
appearance issues, the 1955-56 Chevy sedan rims are identical to the 1955-62
Corvette rims and, therefore, are not rare. I suspect that the wheel covers
that you are using might be reproductions, and that might be the cause of
your problem. Original wheel covers snap firmly into place and mount
tightly against the wheel rim. Grabbing the spinner, you cannot move them.
If yours are loose it might be possible to bend the areas where the wheel
nubs contact the lip on the wheel cover to make them mount tightly on the
rim. Original wheel covers are available, but will cost you at least $400
for a decent set. To stay with what you have, I suggest that you convert
your rubber valve stems to metal ones, which are readily available at tire
shops, and you will need a tire shop to install them.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/20/2022
The drivers side clamp that secures the top needs tightened. Would
appreciate your help on how to tighten it on my 62. Thank you.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I assume that you are referring to the chrome plated clamp on the driver's
side that clamps the top front header to the windshield frame being loose.
The procedure to adjust this clamp is outlined in the official Chevrolet
Corvette shop manual, "Corvette servicing Guide", publication ST-12, on page
1-29, under the heading "PROBLEM B". If you don't have a copy of ST-12, it
is available as a reprint from all of the major Corvette parts suppliers,
and I highly recommend that you acquire a copy if you don't already have
one.
If you don't have a copy of ST-12, the adjustment procedure is a simple
one. Unlatch both right and left clamps and raise the top header off the
windshield frame with a piece of 3/4 " wood. If this is a hard top, you may
have to loosen the two front top hold down screws so as not to stress the
top assembly. Loosen the two large chrome plated Phillips head screws that
secure the clamp that needs adjusting to the top header, and you will find
that the clamp can be adjusted up and down to make it tighter or looser when
clamping the top header to the windshield frame. Adjust as necessary and
then tighten the screws. There should be an adequate adjustment range unless
the top header weatherstrip is damaged or missing.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/12/2022
New member here # 5130. 1960 model. I have two assembly manuals. Does
anybody or anywhere is there an explanation of the numbers and letters in these
books? My Mid America manual pg L71 has a 451247 screw. Is there footnotes for
these? Thanks, Jim
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Jim,
I believe the numbers you refer to are GM part numbers. If someone has
an old parts book they may be able to look up the number and tell you
what the screw is.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jim: I am assuming that you are referring to the 1960 Corvette Assembly
Instruction Manual (AIM). The wonderful thing about the AIM's is that the
GM part number for every part, sealant, screw, washer and nut that was used
in the assembly of your 1960 Corvette is listed. However, except for
specialty hardware, none of the screws were listed for separate sale in the
parts book. Instead, the parts books state the size and length of the
hardware. For example, SCREW, (1/4-20 x 5/8"). I have a Corvette
parts book from 1972 and your 451247 screw is not listed in the part number
index. My AIM for 1960 does not have page numbers like L71, so I cannot
determine what particular screw you are talking about. Almost all hex head
bolts used in your car had a head stamping indicating the strength (grade
3,5,or 8) and the manufacturer's trade mark (A,E,U.TR, RBW, for example),
and the NCRS judging guides frequently specify these markings. Corvette
Central reproduces and sells some of the hardware specified in the NCRS
judging guides.
When I restored my 1962 Corvette in 1974, I cataloged every screw in the car
by the head stamping, the length, and the pitch of the thread. I then
cleaned them and had all of them re-cadmium plated and then I put them back
where they came from when I re-assembled the car. My 1962 Corvette has all
the original nuts and bolts, and they all look like new!
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I have an original Chevrolet
parts catalog for 1953 through 1973. I show no reference to any Chevrolet part
number 451247. If you can describe the application, I can probably identify the
screw if that's what you're looking for.
**********
05/07-2022
Hi - my 54 restoration is complete except for new convertible top. I
need a tan(beige) top. Is Al Knoch the only source, or are there other
suppliers
today?
Thanks,
Mike
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I put a canvas Al Koch top on my
54 in 2000. I’ve been very pleased with it.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mike: In my experience, go with Al Knoch. His products are considered to
be the best. The only problem I have had is with the length of his pads
that go under the top fabric and act to properly space the bows. Using his
pads on my 1960 and 62, they come pre-cut to length and were at least one
inch too short and I had to make compromises to make them work. This might
not be the case with the 53-55 pads. Local installer Jeff Reade has Al make
his pads longer, and they are referred to as the "Jeff Reade" pads. Call
Jeff at 310.570.5554 for more information.
One other problem is with the thickness of the top material that all
reproduction top makers are currently using. The original top fabric was
very thin and the top folded into the top compartment behind the seats with
no effort. The new material is very thick and stiff and it is very
difficult to get the top into the top compartment so the lid can close.
Again, this is for the 56-62 tops. I have no experience with the 53-55 top
material. Either way, there is nothing that you can do about it.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/04/2022
Hi... I'm trying to find where and which direction a distributor heat shield
goes on my car. As you well know, passenger side
bolted to exhaust manifold.
Any information you may lend will be greatly appreciated. 1959 2X4
Carbs.
Best,
Mike
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The driver side mounts just like
the passenger side - two tabs mounted to the inside bolts of the front and rear
exhaust manifold mounting bolts. See photos.
Driver's
shielding
Front
side mount
Rear
shielding
Corvette Central has a good illustration of the shielding and mounting
hardware. Pg95 - mounting brackets are identified as L-Brackets P/N 471125 (4
required)
Ffrom:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The chrome plated shields shown in the pictures are not all of the
shields.. They were installed on radio equipped Corvettes to shield the AM
radio from spark plug radio interference. The complete radio shielding on
your 1959 Corvette consists of five pieces: one on each side of the engine
as shown in the photos; two vertical pieces at the rear of the engine going
up to the distributor; and a large polished stainless steel cover over the
distributor and the ignition coil. Radio delete Corvettes got none of
this. This shielding was necessary because the Corvette fiberglass body
offered no shielding to the radio from the engine ignition radio noise.
This shielding was not needed with the metal cars and trucks, where the
steel body shields the radio.
There were, however, four separate spark plug wire heat shields installed on
all 1958-62 engines. They protect the spark plug wire boots from exhaust
manifold radiant heat that would damage them. They each attach to the
engine block on each side using a short 1/4 inch thread 7/16 hex head bolt
with captured external star lock washer, These heat shields were present on
all Corvettes. If you are using silicone rubber spark plug wires and boots,
these heat shields are probably not necessary.
Refer to Corvette Central's catalog under "Ignition Shielding" to see all
the parts and hardware needed for a complete radio shielding setup,
including the four spark plug wire heat shields, which can be purchased
separately.
Larry Pearson
**********
04/08/2022
I am trying to find the location for the stamped numbers on
the frames of my 1954 and 1962 Corvettes could you please help!
Chuck
From: Bruce Fuhrman, past Secretary of SACC:
I had a 1954 (but not a 1962). I had experience in CA in finding the S/N. The
S/N is stamped on the frame below the drivers lift cheek (on the bodily rear
end). It can not be visable, there is only less than in inch clearance from the
body! You can rub the sandpaper on the spot, and put chalk dust and an mirror to
observe it.
Good Luck!
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
03/23/2022
I am working a 59 frame off and am getting bac to body reassembly. Looking
over the grill and eyebrow surrounds and the studs used to affix them to the
body. Keen, corvette central and zip along with my original have various sizes
of studs. The grill surround appears to use 2 inch long studs on the outer most
“circumference” but when installed over 1” of stud is exposed. Is this correct?
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Ron,
Those
vendors you mentioned, and most others supply diecast surrounds & eyebrows
from Trim Parts that were cast in GM's original tooling.
The studs
are shorter on the ends of the surround.
You have
most likely been to car shows and seen C-1s with 1 or more dimples in the
upper surround. Beware overtightening the washers & nuts on the
studs when you install them. The dimples are re-assembly damage.
Good luck
with your project,
Bill
Huffman, Pres
Michigan
Chapter SACC
(Discussion continued)
Thank you Jack, I just joined SACC this afternoon. What im trying to verify
is are the studs , 2 inch long correct. When installed and hardware on they
protrude about 1 inch and appear too long. The Assembly manual shows same part
number for all studs. But I have 3 lengths. Here is a picture of the upper grill
surround for my 59 with the studs installed.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Ronald - I have a 58 whose grill
surround is original, and the mounting studs are long like those shown in your
photo (approx. 2").
**********
03/08/2022
Hi, I Joined the SACC earlier this year #5112 and I’m looking forward to
the club activities. I just purchased a 1957 270 HP corvette this year. The
car was restored over a period of years finishing in about 2011. After going
through the NCRS judging process that concluded in 2013 the car was mostly
stored in a climate controlled room and obtained about 130 miles since the
restoration. The car was started on a regular basis during storage.
I am
now experiencing a starter issue. When trying to start the engine i will get a
whining noise from the starter. The starter is not engaging the flywheel just
spinning. This may happen two, three times in a row and then it does engage and
the engine will start.
Does this sound like a solenoid problem or could
it be the starter drive that is attached to the solenoid. My thought is since
this starter was rebuilt perhaps 12 to 15 years ago and only 130 miles on it
perhaps it is dirty or needs lubrication? Or is it a typical solenoid fault?
Thanks
Eugene
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I would first check to make sure the starter bolts are tight.
When you turn the key to start position you should hear a metallic
click. That would be the starter gear engaging the flywheel.
Since the starter is just spinning the starter is not engaging the
flywheel but the solenoid is working enough to provide power to the
starter motor.
Get someone to help you turn the engine a little ways. Put the car in
high gear and push/bump forward or back a little just to turn the
flywheel some. Then, try the starter again. This is a check to see if
some ring gear teeth may be missing.
If the starter just spins after that I would remove the starter and
investigate the solenoid and the starter gear.
You can bench test the solenoid with a battery and jumper cables.
Positive battery to the large top post on the solenoid. Touch the
negative to the starter case. The starter must be securely attached to
the bench. When you touch the negative cable to the battery it will
torque over violently if not fastened down.
If the starter gear does not extend to engagement position remove the
solenoid and check the linkage.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I agree with Verle, however, to
get the solenoid to kick in you have to apply 12V to the solenoid terminal
marked "S". This terminal is connected to your ignition switch. The battery
cable attached to the large terminal is always hot. When the solenoid is
energized it connects the Battery cable to the starter and pushes the starter
gear (bendix) into the flywheel. If the starter is spinning then the solenoid
is operating. BUT the solenoid also pushes the bendix gear into the flywheel to
roll the engine. The Bendix gear is a spring loaded and threaded assembly.
Normally the starter gear is on the end of the Bendix assembly (held there by a
spring). When the solenoid is activated the Bendix assembly is pushed into the
flywheel, with the gear at it's end, it engages the flywheel. When the engine
starts, the speed of the flywheel is greater than the rotational speed of the
starter and the gear is extracted because it is on a threaded shaft that
basically unscrews it from the forward position (disengages the flywheel). Once
the starter is rested - a spring pushes the starter gear to the START position
(end of the shaft), ready for the next time you need to start the engine. If the
spring that normally returns the starter gear is weak or broken the gear does
not return to the START position, thus when you engage the starter the gear does
not engage the flywheel. The whole Bendix assembly or the spring itself can be
replaced. I hope this helps - this is not a complicated repair. Getting the
starter off is probably the hardest part of the process.
PS: You can engage the solenoid without suffering the violent torque of the
starter by simply applying 12V to the starter terminal (marked "S") without
applying 12V to the battery terminal.
Follow-up:
This is a follow up question regarding the starter not engaging the flywheel
and just whining. I pulled the starter and i have it strapped to my bench.
When I put 12 volts to the large top post and ground the starter then put 12
volts to the s terminal the starter gear works fine. The solenoid shoots out
the gear and spins every single time. It is not
acting like it did when the
starter was bolted to the engine. I looked at the flywheel and all of the ring
gears look good. Could this be due to no load on the starter and not a very
robust bench test? I would hate to crawl back under and install back on the
engine and find out it still needs to be rebuilt.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Eugene - does the drive gear spin
freely in one direction and lock up in the other ? The drive gear is suppose to
spin freely in one direction only. The large hub just behind the gear is a
ratchet. A Bendix assembly (or starter drive assembly) is only about $50 - I
might replace it just to see what happens. Good Luck - John
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The problem you are having is most likely caused by a worn out Overrunning
Clutch assembly. The pinion gear is attached to a cylinder that contains
what is known as a sprag. This is a one-directional clutch device. When
the starter is spinning the pinion gear against the flywheel teeth it fully
engages the starter motor shaft to the pinion gear and cranks the engine
over. When the engine starts, the internal sprag device disengages the
pinion from the starter shaft to protect the starter armature from being
over speeded and destroyed. The pinion gear then freely spins on the
armature shaft until the driver disengages the starter. When the sprag
wears out, it does not reliably connect the pinion gear to the starter
output shaft in the cranking direction.
To test the overrunning clutch action the pinion should turn freely in the
overrunning direction and must not slip in the cranking direction. You can
check this out with your fingers. Even if the clutch seems to be working
properly, I recommend replacing it if is old and the pinion gear teeth
appear to be worn. Also, check that the spring immediately behind the
clutch assembly is in good condition. If this spring is weak or broken, the
pinion gear will not be pushed far enough to engage it with the flywheel
teeth.
The Overrunning Clutch assembly is retained on the armature shaft with a
snap ring sandwiched between a thrust collar (in front) and a retainer ring
on the back side. Refer to a Chevrolet sedan shop manual to instruct you on
how to remove and reinstall the snap ring so that a new Overrunning Clutch
can be installed.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Loose Starter
bolts - the bolts would have to be VERY loose to cause the starter to not
even try to mesh with the flywheel
Bad Bendix linkage - Possibly. This, however, is a very simple linkage
- i've never seen it fail. If so check the pivot pin. if it's missing
or not.
Bad Bendix Gear - Probably. Its a common problem - for the Bendix (not
the solenoid) spring to fail. This will cause the starter gear to "not
return" to the start position, thus not engage the flywheel when the
starter kicks.
If this is the problem - repeated
attempts to start the engine will eventually engage the flywheel because
the starter/Bendix shaft is threaded such that a sudden spin of the
starter will thrust the gear into the flywheel
Bad flywheel ring gear - Again possibly but not probably. If the ring
gear is bad - repeated attempts will not cause the starter to engage.
You have to bump the engine to a different flywheel position like you
describe.
I have attached a photo exposing the Bendix assembly. Note the spring
between the solenoid wishbone yoke and the starter gear. This is the
spring that fails and causes the starter gear to fail to engage the
flywheel, You can also see the thread on the starter drive shaft that
causes the gear to retract when spun by the flywheel when the engine
starts.
**********
02/24/2022
Is there a site where I can find some back issues
of the club magazine? I used to find some on EBAY, now I can’t find
any. Thanks Steve
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
This should be easy. Join SACC, then order all back issues available
from our new National Editor Alan Blay.
Bill Huffman
*Joining is easy! On our website simply click on "Online New Member
Application".
**********
02/08/2022
Looking for a qualified mechanic to service my 54 Corvette.
I live in downtown Dallas. The car will need to be trailered.
Contact information.
Anthony
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: (*Note: Please be aware of the
disclaimer above). DMS Corvette Shop in Garland. 972-494-6900. I own a
54 and he's the only mechanic I'll allow near it except myself.
PS:
highly recommend association with the local chapter of the solid axle club.
Wealth of knowledge and support.
**********
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, Past Club Secretary:
Hi Anthony, (I assume you have a stove-bolt 6)
I do not have a recommend in downtown Dallas, but I do have
a recommends on oil!
Use a 30W conventional oil, not 10/30W oil. Add "ZINC" to the oil,
(ZDDP available in auto stores). The reason is; In the late 90's they
reduced zinc out of the oil (because every car had roller cams) and tappets
were obsolete.
Enjoy your "6",
Bruce Fuhrman
01/20/2022
Hello,
I am trying to figure out if this tach drive unit is a gm part or a repro? If it
is a real gm part can you give me an idea of it'svalue? It cam as extra parts
with a 1958 that I bought in 1992. Mike
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: This appears to be a GM unit.
The markings are different than the unit on my 58 but I don't think that is
significant. You can purchase new drive units for approximately $110.00
**********
12/24/2021
Hello,
Is there an easy way to remove each of the cables from the
rear of the dash cluster (to twist off the knurled nuts)?
The way I've tried it get at them is to reach over the steering
shaft, but I need baby hands and fingers to grasp the nuts
Is there a better and easier way to reach them without dropping
the steering shaft?
Thank you
58 Newbee
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Rex. I own a 1960 and two 1962's, and I have been under there lots of
times, although it is harder now that I am 80. Lie on the floor on your
back with a light and reach up with your right hand and loosen the nuts with
your thumb and fore finger. I do this when I need to lubricate the cables.
If this doesn't work for you, then you will have to remove the instrument
housing, which is lots of trouble. To do this refer to page 1-6 in the
Corvette Servicing Guide, Chevrolet publication ST-12. This is the official
Chevrolet shop manual for C-1 Corvettes and is available as a reprint from
all of the major Corvette parts suppliers. This is a "must have" for C-1
Corvette owners who work on their own cars. You can't drop the steering
column enough to do much good.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/04/2021
Subject: 1958 corvette stock 283 cu in, 290 hp
Hi all, I’m looking for a approx. 600cfm carb to install on my stock
manifold. Is there a good carb out there that won’t need an adapter plate
for this application? Cannot seem to find a good rebuilt/rebuildable stock
carb. I’m concerned about height/clearance with hood. I had a 600 Holley
with adapter and had hood clearance issues when airfilter was installed.....
Jack
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jack: You say that you have a stock 283, 290 hp engine in your 1958, and
you are looking for a 600 cfm carburetor to go on this engine. This engine
came with fuel injection, not a 600 cfm carburetor, The only engine in 1958
with a single four barrel was the 230 hp engine with a cast iron intake
manifold. The 245 hp and 270 hp engines had dual Carter carburetors. This
arrangement was continued through 1961, and became 250 hp in 1962. All
these single four barrel engines came with a Carter model WCFB carburetor.
Do you have the 230 hp intake manifold that will fit a WCFB Carburetor on
your engine? The Carter WCFB carburetors once were very plentiful, but now
can cost over $900 rebuilt to NCRS judging standards, which you don't need.
You should be able to find a WCFB carburetor online. Corvette Central
offers a rebuilding service.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/1/2021
I
have a question about 57 Corvette cross member bolts and some others on the car.
The Frame was painted separate from the cross member, as I understand it, and
thus some of the cross members were painted a more shiny color than the frame
and was assembled to the frame as it went along. With that being said how
would the bolts have been painted that hold it on to the frame? Second
there are several parts that were assembled to the frame after it was painted
like the axle bumpers rear springs just to mention a few. So were all
these bolts painted or not or just some of them and where would I person find a
list of what was and wasn’t painted.
Thanks a lot for your help.
Kermit
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I assume this question is raised in anticipation of NCRS judging.
NCRS flight judging does not judge those parts. They do not raise the car
and it is too low for most people to get under to see the parts.
I painted my bolts black to go with the cross member and for protection.
If it is related to Bow Tie judging, those cars are placed on a lift so the
complete underside of the car can be inspected for originality. As part of
that process judges compare patina of various parts and something that has
been restored/painted will stand out.
If the car is that original/unmolested I would leave it alone.
Verle
**********
11/26/2021
I am a UK member looking for a
wiper motor cable complete with ratio box , my old cable is approximately
32.5 inches in length, please could you tell me if this item is available
and a part number if possible and contact details where I may be able to
source this part.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Malcolm: Corvette Central sells rebuilt left and right hand windshield
wiper transmissions, complete with cables. The cost is $109 each side plus
a $100 core charge and shipping. They also used to provide a rebuilding
service. Their catalog numbers are 651080L and R. They also offer a
complete wiper upgrade kit that includes everything needed including the
motor. The car may have to be modified to install it.
Larry Pearson
**********
11/23/2021
I have a 57 I am doing. Are the bolts that hold the
Front Cross Member and several other parts like the motor mounts painted.
I have never seen a none restored car and know that some of the cross members
were painted gloss and some weren’t so they were installed after the frame was
painted thus my question about the bolts. Also stuff like the rear spring
mounts to the fame and shackle bolts and nuts just things like that because they
were installed after the frame was painted I think or were they? You know
upper/lower A arm bushings and things of that nature that was put on after the
frame paint. I am pretty sure the grease zerks were not painted because I
am old enough to remember that as I worked in a gas station and greased them.
Got any ideas?
Thanks,
Kermit
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kermit: If you are restoring your car for NCRS Judging, obtain a copy of
the NCRS Judging Guidelines for your year car and follow what they say. If
not, I have made a study of the chassis painting over the years, but not as
early as 1957. I have a collection of photos taken by Motor Trend when they
road tested a new fuel injected 1961 Corvette. They put it on a grease rack
and completely photographed the chassis front to back. Also, there is a
book "Birthplace of Legends" that has assembly line photos taken over the
years at the St. Louis assembly plant. Here is what I have come to believe.
The frames were manufactured for Chevrolet by an outside supplier (I forgot
the name) and were dip painted with gloss chassis black paint before
shipment to the St. Louis assembly plant. There is a red stencil, upside
down, on the frame just under the driver's seat that gives a part number
with a manufacturing batch number after it and a manufacturing date below
it. Chassis black paint is identical to radiator paint, and is an
inexpensive black tar like coating that is solvent based. It dries but does
not cure like enamels, and is easily removed with any petroleum based
solvent like mineral spirits and lacquer thinner. Next the front and rear
suspensions were installed, the exhaust system, the brake system including
the master cylinder (sticking up in the air by the vertical brake line), the
fuel lines, and then, finally the engine/transmission and drive shaft. Just
before the body installation, everything got spray painted with chassis
black paint (except the engine): The front and rear suspensions (including
zerk fittings), the brake drums and backing plates and rubber brake hoses,
the exhaust system including the mufflers, the left side of the master
cylinder and its brake line, the drive shaft, the cast iron transmissions (3
and 4, speed and PG) with black overspray on the bell housing and bottom
clutch cover. The frame was not purposely re-painted, but parts of it
obviously did. The result wasn't pretty, and it wasn't meant to be. They
wanted to rust proof the entire chassis before the body got installed. I
have pictures to prove all of this.
As far as the front engine mounting to the frame goes, in the beginning it
was done as shown in the factory Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM). The
verticals were bolted to the frame and when the engine was installed, the
rubber engine mounts were set in place with the steel tube and the engine
assembly with the gloss orange painted cross member was set on the rubber
mounts and bolted with the lock nut thick flat washer, and radio ground
strap on top. The lock nut, the flat washer and the ground strap have no
orange paint on them. This is how your 1957 was done.
Sometime after 1957, this all changed. The AIM never got updated to show
this. My un-restored 1960 was done as described here. The verticals, the
rubber engine mounts radio ground strap and the cross member got assembled
in some sort of fixture. This was probably done at the St Louis plant, but
could have been done at Flint Engine. This entire assembly got installed
on the engine. Just before the engine got painted, they masked off the
verticals and the rubber engine mounts. Then everything else got painted
orange, including the lock nut, the large flat washer and the end of the
radio ground strap.
This gives you something to think about . Again, if NCRS is going to judge
your car, restore it like they say. In my experience, NCRS and I do not
agree on a lot of things. The judging people at NCRS are very stubborn and
will not correct their publications when proven wrong. But I can prove what
I believe. They can't.
Larry Pearson
**********
10/30/2021
Hello,
>
>
> I have a 62 corvette, 300 hp with a t-10 4 speed
trans. Recently, it started to grind slightly when I shift from 1st to 2nd.
After the car warms up it doesn’t do it. What do you suggest? I’m thinking to
change the oil to see if that will fix it. What transmission oil do you
recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chuck: The proper lubricant for your transmission is 90 weight gear oil.
This is available in quart bottles at all auto parts stores. But I don't
think that the gear oil is the cause of your transmission grinding.
Check your clutch linkage adjustment. There should be about one inch free
pedal in your clutch pedal before the clutch linkage starts to engage the
clutch throughout bearing. If this free travel is much in excess of one
inch, depressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor may not cause the
clutch disc to fully disengage from the flywheel and this may cause a
grinding sound when attempting to shift into gear. But if this were the
case, there would be grinding when shifting to all of the gears. Clutch
free travel adjustment instructions are found on page 6R-3 in GM's shop
manual for all C-1's, Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12.
Reprints of this manual are available from all the major Corvette parts
suppliers.
Your transmission gearshift linkage may need adjustment for second gear
engagement. The adjustment procedure is, unfortunately, not found in the
ST-12 shop manual. It is found in the 1961 Chevrolet Passenger Car Shop
Manual on page 12-29. The 1-2 shift rod is the long one going to the front
shift lever on the outside of the T-10 transmission. With the shifter in
the second gear position, make sure that the the transmission lever for 1-2
is all the way forward.
If none of this solves your problem, your transmission may need servicing.
Second gear is a particular problem with the T-10 transmission. With heavy
use, the second gear synchronizers fail to keep second gear engaged, and it
will come out of gear, particularily when lifting off the gas pedal. I
seldom use second gear in my three C-1's. If you look at the gear ratios,
the third gear ratio is close to second gear ratio in the 3-speed
transmission. So why bother using second gear? I shift directly from first
to third. I only use second when stuck in traffic.
Larry Pearson
**********
10/25/2021
Attached is a photo of the hubcaps that were on the '54
Corvette that I recently purchased and I know they are not Corvette hubcaps but
wondered if anyone can identify the year, make and model that these were
originally used on? I am guessing a 50's vintage Chevrolet? Thanks for your
help, John
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Photos of the first Corvettes off
the production line in 53 exhibit a hubcap very close to that in your photo.
They are believed to be that of a 53 Bel Air. Investigate passenger car (Bel
Air) caps around your year. I have attached an article from "The Real Corvette
(pg29)" FYI.
**********
I’m in the process of restoring my 1961 Corvette as original as possible. I
have a restored set of original Seatbelt Hambones which are silver cadmium
coated. The vehicle is black with silver coves and I was wondering if you
know what color and finish the Hambones should be. I know they do get some
over spray on them when painting the body.
Can you please help me out?
Regards
Dave
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dave: I assume that you are referring to the two outboard seat belt support
assemblies that attach with four bolts to a reinforcement riveted to the
floor pan under the car. They were in place when the exterior was painted,
and you can expect at least some exterior overspray to be on them. They
could actually be completely painted black, but this was not deliberately
done, because these supports were not visible with the seats in place. If
you are having your car judged by NCRS, don't worry about the appearance
because the judges can't see them.
Larry Pearson
**********
Members,
Does anyone know where I can buy touchup paint for my 1958 sonwcrest
white Corvette?
Thanks.
Ed
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Where are you located? I
recently purchased 58 Charcoal acrylic lacquer from English Color in Plano,
Texas. They had to import it from their shop in Houston - but they still
supplied it.
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I buy from Paintscratch.com
I use Venetian Red in 1 oz and spray cans.
Joe
**********
09/21/2
I ordered a convertible top
front right latch (for my ’61) in July and was told in August that it
was backordered, and last week I was told the order was cancelled as
they could not get the part from the manufacturer. Every place I look it
seems that they are now out of stock even though they are still
advertised in most catalogues. Any suggestions on where to go to
get one?
Chris
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chris: Try Sully's Tops, in Fresno California. They reproduce the entire
top frame and sell individual parts. Call 559.291.8677, 800.451.8680,
http://www.sullystops.com.
Paragon sells used parts.
Larry Pearson
**********
09/14/2021
Greetings!
I have a 54 Corvette restomod that I have owned for about 15 years. I have
a 350 sbc in it, although from most perspectives it looks original until
the hood is opened. The original sway bar is notched, which prevents me
from installing a larger and much-needed radiator fan. Can you offer me a
resource to find a sway bar (perhaps straight or notched in the other
direction)/that will fulfill my need? I’ll be most grateful.
I didn’t know this club existed (silly me,). I just joined.
Thanks much!
Richard
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Richard: You don't say what type of radiator fan you are using. If
you are using a water pump mounted fan, the notched (forward) sway bar
should not be a problem. It would offer more fan clearance than a
straight sway bar would. But if you are using an electric fan mounted
on the radiator, then the forward notch would be a problem. The forward
notched sway bar was necessary due to the considerable length of the six
cylinder engine. When the small block V-8 was introduced, the sway bars
were made straight, because this engine is much shorter than the six.
It is interesting to note that the better heat rejection of the V-8 (due
to the much shorter path from the exhaust valve to the exhaust port with
the new V-8 cylinder head design, resulting in less exhaust heat being
transferred to the coolant) allowed Chevrolet to use a smaller radiator
for the V-8 in sedans. The V-8 also weighed less then the six, and cost
less to manufacture. In 1955, I am told that it cost Chevrolet about
$65 to manufacture a 265 V-8 engine, exclusive of overhead costs. They
should have charged less for the V-8 than the six, but they didn't,
In answer to your question, any 1956-62 sway bar is straight. They
should be easy to acquire.
Larry Pearson
**********
Hi, I have a 61 Corvette 283 Engine w/ DUAL
Quads 245 HP. What type of gas should I use in this engine.
I have been running a premium fuel w/ Lucas Octane Booster.
Can I switch to 87 Octane and run Octane Booster ?
Or is there anything better that you can recommend.
Thanks,
Glenn
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Glenn,
I'm going
to assume you mean you are using unleaded Premium 93 Octane 10% ethanol
gasoline with octane booster in your car.
Around
home, I use 100% recreational 90 octane unleaded gasoline in my 1960 230HP
283 that has with same compression ratio as yours and it runs fine.
Your
car's components were not designed to deal with the corrosive effects of
ethanol long term.
On long
trips like the recent convention trip, I had to use the Premium 93 gas and
filled up on the good stuff when we got home.
However,
if if your engine has not had hardened valve seats installed in the stock
heads, you probably need to add lead substitute as well.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glenn: I own a 1960 Corvette with the base 230 hp engine, and it is
completely original and has never been rebuilt. This is the exact same
engine as the 245 hp engine, except that it has a single 4 barrel
carburetor. Both engines have a 10.5 compression ratio. I live in
California, which has the worst gasoline in the country. Premium is 91
octane and $5.00+ per gallon. My 60 runs just fine with the 91 octane
gasoline and no octane booster. Occasionally I add a lead substitute to
protect the valve seats, but I don't think that this is necessary for
the low performance engines.
If your engine is original or has been rebuilt to original specs and is
properly timed, you should have no problem using 91 or better octane
pump gasoline. If it pings when driven hard, retard the timing. I have
a 62 with 11.25 compression and have had no luck with octane boosters.
I have found that 1/2 quart of lead additive per 10 gallons of premium
boosts the 91 octane to an acceptable level for this engine. Lead
additive is available on the internet.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: You did not say whether your motor
runs in a manner that it needs octane booster. That is important to the
question. The stock configuration was 9.5 compression with flat top
pistons. The combustion chambers were small on the stock heads and 0.016"
head gaskets were used. Do you know whether the configuration is stock or
was the motor rebuilt with 0.030 or thicker composite head gaskets?
If you are getting pinging during acceleration, have you backed off on
the timing?
We need more information and I am inclined to say your motor does not
need anything special in the fuel.
With ethanol additive gasoline, I would use 1/2 oz. of ATF per gallon of
gasoline.
**********
08/29/2021
I had a tail light pigtail short out and now I have no taillights. Any quick
suggestions to look for?
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Probably a fused wire. Start at
the light switch and work your way back.
**********
08/21/2021
Tech Help,
September
2020 and April 2021 posts to your tech team and review of past posts were
a valuable source to remove and install the speedo and tach with newly greased
bearings on my 59.
Now I think the fuel pump failed.
Paragon no longer stocks the AC 4656 fuel pump as mentioned on this thread.
It seems it is no longer produced. Does anyone have a source that
still has one. I am leery about purchasing a reconditioned original on EBay.
Anyone have experience with rebuilding these pump?
Eric
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Eric: You say that you "think" that your fuel pump has failed. Did you
test it? Most vacuum gauges will test fuel pump pressure. Also, you can
disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor, hook a rubber hose to it and run
the hose to a can or large bottle, start the engine (pouring gas down the
carburetor if there is no gas in the carburetor) and see if the pump pumps
gas into the bottle. If it does, your pump is probably good.
Your carburetor either has a built in fuel filter or an external fuel
filter. Remove the external filter or the bronze internal filter element
and try to blow through it. If it is plugged up, that is the problem and
replace the element.
If you need to rebuild or replace your old pump, Corvette Central sells
rebuilt 4656 pumps or rebuild kits. The Chevrolet passenger car shop manual
for your year tells you exactly how to rebuild your pump from a rebuild
kit. If you decide to rebuild your old pump, do not attempt to
replace the rocker arm pivot shaft. The ends are staked to keep the shaft
in place, and it will be very difficult for you to properly stake the ends
of the replacement shaft. I have not encountered a shaft so worn that it
needs replacement.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Also, You can get the car to run for
long enough by pouring gas into the area where the metering rods are. Then
start the car and see if there is any flow from the disconnected fuel line.
**********
08/16/2021
In sorting out parts I need for the
restoration of a '54 I recently purchased (stored for over thirty years), I
have a seat frame and adjusting rails for the driver's seat but nothing but a
seat bottom and backrest for the passenger seat. Doesn't the passenger seat
require a similar frame? I was told the passenger seat was fixed (no adjusters)
how does it attach? Is the attached drawing for a '54 drivers seat?
Thanks, John
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The passenger seat on a 54 is not
mounted to a frame. The spring sets (bottom and back) mount directly to the
floor and bulkhead of the car itself. I don't know of anywhere the brackets
(more like clips) are shown. If you can't find any references to help you - I
can take a photo of mine and send it to you. Good luck - John
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, past club Secretary:
Your are right, the passenger seat is
not adjustable. You are missing the anchor plate (front/rear)
I suggest you make from steel? The bolts come from the underside.
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
07/23/2021
Rebuilding 62. All I currently have is a green and yellow
wire that was hooked to the old neutral safety switch. From
what I am reading, I should have two purple wires. I took
the tape off the wiring and see that the yellow wire
actually is one of the purple wires which leaves now with a
green and purple (yellow). I cannot find anything listing
on the wiring diagram for the NSS so am at a lost where or
how this is supposed to be connected except it looks like it
should go to something on.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Deb: The 1962 Aluminum Powerglide transmission is option (RPO) 313. The
1962 Aluminum Powerglide is a completely new transmission that replaces the
cast iron Powerglide used in 1961 and earlier Corvettes. To find out how
the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) mounts and how the wiring harness is routed,
you need to purchase a copy of the 1962 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual
(AIM), which is available from all the major Corvette parts suppliers. The
RPO 313 section is seven pages long and shows all about the installation of
the NSS, but it does not explain or show how the NSS wiring harness connects
into the car wiring system. The purpose of the NSS is to prevent the
starter from activating unless the transmission is in Park. It somehow
connects in series with the purple wire in the car's wiring harness that
activates the starter solenoid. It appears in the passenger car shop manual
that there is some kind of adapter on the back of the starter solenoid that
the NSS wiring harness connects into. Contact Lectric Limited at
708.563.0400 to see if they can help you with the NSS wiring harness. They
reproduce all the wiring harnesses for your car.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/15/2021
I recently became a member and received my member number
today.
I have enjoyed reading the great advice in the technical help.
I tried a search to see if my question was already answered
previously to avoid asking the same question over again, but was
unable to find anything.
I am wondering if anyone has advice on installing the radio antenna
on a 1961.
A former owner replaced the original antenna with an antenna from
some other vehicle. I recently purchased a correct antenna and
reviewed the instructions in the 1961 service manual. Though it
seems straight forward, the part I am finding a bit tricky is making
sure that the bezel that sits on top of the fender is in the correct
position. When I tighten the cap, and check the antenna with a
level, it is not straight up and down. Perhaps it is not supposed
to be straight up and down. I do not know since the car did not
have the correct antenna before I changed it. Another concern is
that when I tighten the cap, I would think that it should contact
the bezel evenly all around, but in my case it makes full contact on
one side, but has a very, very small gap on the opposite side. I
have tried refitting it a number of times, but still come up with
the very small gap on one side. From a distance, it all looks
great, but if I could find out how to make it even better, I would
appreciate it.
Thank you for taking the time to consider my question.
Bruce
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Bruce,
Welcome
to SACC!
If you
bought the whole antenna kit, there should have been a strap/clamp that
attaches the lower body of the antenna to the wheel well inside the trunk.
This
attachment determines the antenna angle coming out the top of the rear
fender. The chromed bezel just covers a big ugly rubber gasket sealing water
out of the trunk.
You, as a
guy who really cares, are putting far more thought into its alignment than
the assembly operator who originally installed it in 1961.
Relax and
enjoy your car because none of them were born perfect.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bruce: You mention a 1961 service manual. I have never heard of such a
thing, except for the passenger cars. The Chevrolet Corvette Servicing
Guide, publication ST-12 is the only official shop manual that Chevrolet
produced for the C1 Corvettes, and it attempts to cover the entire
1953-1962 production run. It is a "must have" for all C1 Corvette
owners who work on their cars. If you don't have this manual, it is
available as a reprint from all Corvette parts suppliers. The radio
antenna installation is covered on page 13-4. Figure 3. Although this
figure is supposed to apply to all C1 Corvettes, it actually is
specifically for the 1961-62 Corvettes, which is exactly what you are
looking for.
You don't say where you got this "correct" antenna. What you have may
actually be for a 1956-60 Corvette, which installs through a rounded
fender top rather than the rather flat sloped fender top of the 1961-62
Corvettes. The 1956 through 1960 antenna assembly is slightly longer
than the 1961-61 because of the longer height in the trunk compartment,
but it might work in your 1961 trunk. Corvette Central sells the fender
top hardware if you have the earlier setup.
I assume that your car originally had a radio installed by the factory
and, therefore, that the hole in the fender top is in the correct
location so everything in the trunk properly lines up. All vertical
mast antennas need a ground plane to work properly. On metal car
bodies, the car body is the ground plane. On the Corvette, the frame is
used as the ground plane, and this connection is provided by a copper
strap that connects the antenna housing to a bolt accessed through an
access cover in the trunk that electrically connects to the frame, as
shown in Figure 3. Also the frame must be grounded to the engine block
with the two heavy copper ground straps that connect the frame to the
engine mounting bracket shown in Figure 6 on page 13-7. On Corvettes,
the engine block is the ground point for all electrical systems on the
car.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/06/2021
Good Afternoon :
I acquired a 1954 corvette 10 years ago. The vehicle did not have the
original engine or transmission.
After many years of searching. I found
an original 54 corvette engine and transmission. I had the engine and
transmission rebuilt.
The question that I am asking is the timing of the
engine. I have the beebee on the flyweight in line with the pointer.
The distributor rotor on number 1 cylinder on the cap. When I crank the
engine over and check the to see if the distributor rotor in on number 1
again it seems the it is off from the original setting.
Am I doing something wrong.?
Your help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you
Scott
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, Past Secretary: Hi Scott,
Is the engine running? If not,
there is something wrong. Be sure the compression is #1 and not exhaust.
Do this by taking the sparkplugs out and checking the compression in #1.
It may be the installed the distributor off by a gear?
If running- I had a '54 and it had the original engine &
transmission. During a transmission o'haul they could not locate the
proper flywheel (the teeth were worn out) by the starter, so they
reversed it! It worked out, BUT, I lost the timing mark! I
simply used a Dwell meter to set the points and drove the car till
there was no "ping" and used the Dwell meter again when replacing
the points. The proper dwell is 40.5-47.5 degrees, and the timing is
on the beebee.
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
1- Rotate the engine until the timing pointer lines up with the BB or circle
on the
flywheel.
2- Adjust the points for proper dwell. Rotate the distributor until the
points are on a high point of the distributor cam. Adjust the points
for a 0.16 gap (establishes an approximate setting)
3- Connect a ohm meter between the points feed to the coil and ground
(disconnect from the coil). When the points are closed the ohm meter
should read 0 ohms. Rotate the distributor until the points just open
(ohm meter will jump to MAX ohms). Lock down the Distributor.
4-
Note where the distributor rotor is pointing - it should be pointing to
No.1 plug terminal.
5- If you need to adjust the dwell you will have to re-adjust the
timing.
Addendum to above answer.....
You are not looking for where the distributor rotor aligns with No.1 -
you are looking for where the points break associated with No.1
**********
06/26/2021
HELLO EVERYONE, I am
putting the finishing touches on my 1960 corvette and I realized I
did not know what the orientation of the door lock knobs should be.
I looked at a number of C1s on the internet but saw multiple
orientations. So, in the unlocked position where should the
lock “point”; to the right, down,??? Thank you for your time.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Years ago, I had the good fortune to be able to purchase 8x10 glossy B&W
prints of photos that Petersen Publishing took of new Corvettes they did
road tests on for 1959, 1961 and 1962. Most of these were not used in the
magazine articles. They all show the position to be straight down. If you
are having NCRS judge your car, position them the way they tell you to in
their judging manual, or they will make deductions. NCRS is "always"
right. Years ago, I gave up trying to get them to fix their mistakes.
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I tried my in several positions and picked the position that worked best for
me.
As Larry said, if you are having it judged, do it like their manual says.
Verle
**********
06/25/2021
Hello folks. My ’58 is a 245hp and T-10 4-speed setup.
Normally, shifting is smooth and secure. But, on very rare occasions the
shifter linkages somehow get locked up (happened at parking-type low speed,
probably going to reverse but really don’t remember). The immediate
correction is crawling under (not always easy) and jiggling linkages. I’ve
had this car 20 years; I think it happened twice, but the first time may
have been 60 years ago with my first ’58.
My question is – any clues as to what to look, for to avoid this
kind of lock-up? Thanks, Al
This photo was taken under car in 2019 when it had locked-up – hit or miss
with cam at arm’s length!
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Al,
I assume
you have a stock '58 shifter with the spring as a detent to separate 1st &
reverse shift action. In all the efforts to steer/ shift/ brake and the 360
visuals related to having no RH rear view mirror, it gets pretty busy for us
in the drivers seat.
After 63
years, I'll bet that shifter spring isn't as rigorous in its lock-out
function as it used to be, allowing both 1st & reverse to try to engage at
the same time.
Hello
shifter lock-up.
Either
refurb or replace the spring, buy another '57-'58 stock shifter or you might
want to upgrade to the '59-'62 4 speed shifter w/ reverse lock-out handle.
It just
can't shift into reverse unless you actively want it to & pull the T-handle.
If you
have noticed linkage rattle, it might help to replace the bent cotter keys
with the correct GM G-clip.
Regards,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I have experienced shifter lockup in the past. On mine the main problem was
it was worn out.
I rebuilt it with new bushings and shims to reduce/eliminate the slop in the
shift levers.
It may also be wear in the transmission side plate, detent spring, detent
balls, etc.
Last but not least, the shifter needs to be adjusted so the shift levers are
properly aligned. Misalignment can potentially cause the problem.
Many years ago I was with a friend in his 62 late one rainy night when the
shifter got locked up in one gear. We found a closed gas station with a pay
phone booth with light on. We jacked up the driver side of the car and I
slid under the car with water running on the pavement to pull the shift rod
to get it in neutral. While I was under the car a police car pulled up and
wanted to know what we were doing. After an explanation he asked a few more
questions and left, while giving us a suspicious look. My friend never did
adjust the shifter and had lock up problems more than once. I refused to get
under it after the first time.
Verle
**********
06/22/2021
I'm restoring my 60 vette. I noticed something very odd and no one has a
good answer. The bulk head between the trunk and the gas tank area is
missing . It was cut out very neatly. It appears it was once part of
the body. Why in the world would someone do that?? Any help will be
greatly appreciated. Thanks Bob
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Robert: I own a 1960 and two 62's, and the differences in the trunk storage
between the two models is very significant. The capacity of the 1960 and
earlier Corvettes trunks is quite small compared with the 61 and 62 models.
I suspect that a prior owner was looking for a way to get more trunk space
that was accessible from the trunk area and cut this panel out to easily
access the additional storage area that is there where the soft top goes.
Of course, if the car has a soft top, it must be in the up position to free
up the space. If your car has a hard top only, access to the soft top
storage area is not possible with the hard top in place. I have used the
soft top storage area for additional storage during long trips with my cars.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/18/2021
Does anyone make king pin
kit with needle bearing instead of bushing.
Also is a good thing to do ?
Also on differential fill plug leaks ? Install new plug with gasket, someone
total me to use copper gasket .
Please advise.
Regards,
Glenn
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glenn: I finally got around to see if anyone manufacturers or sells a
needle bearing king pin kit, and found nothing. If it was available,
Corvette Central would have it, and they don't. The bushings will last
longer than you will, as long as you grease them. The factory recommends a
1000 mile interval for greasing all 22 grease fittings on your car's front
suspension. This is unreasonable, and I feel that you can safely go to a
2000 mile interval. Be sure to grease all four inner fittings on the upper
A-arms. They are hard to see and access, but if you ignore them, the
bushings will fail and are very difficult to replace.
The differential fill plug uses a leather gasket. If you replace it and it
still leaks, wrap the plug threads with Teflon tape and that should fix the
leak.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/17/2021
I am Chris and I have a ’61. Thank you Verle for your suggestion with my
tail light issue. Still working on it. My fuel gauge reads beyond full and
does not change. I heard from someone that it might mean the gauge is not
grounded. Any thoughts on how to check out my gauge? Second question, what
additive, if any, should I put in my tank when I fill up. I have put 93 octane
in it so far. It is the original 283 engine.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
The fuel sending unit in the tank has a wire that should be attached to the
frame to ground it. Could be a problem on either end of the wire. Make sure
the frame connection is not rusted. Or, it could be a problem with the
sending unit its self.
The following was copied from another source and explains how to check the
fuel gauge.
"The
following information is reprinted with the permission of Mr. Fred Aldrich,
a.k.a. The
Chevelle Engineer.
Data presented are the same from his popular website with only minor changes
to spelling and overall format. Mr. Aldrich passed away in 2011 and
graciously allowed me to use some information from this website before his
passing.
1
) Locate
the fuel sender feed wire near the fuel tank. You're looking for a single
tan colored wire. With the tan wire disconnected at the fuel tank, the fuel
gauge should read past full with the ignition on. Wait a few moments as some
fuel gauges take a long time to respond. Touch the tan wire from the body to
any convenient ground and the gauge should read empty. If not, you have a
wiring problem or a bad gauge.
2) If the gauge responds correctly, the gauge
and wiring are OK. Next use a multi-meter to measure resistance to
ground of the sender wire connection on the top of the fuel sender
or the tan wire from the top of the fuel tank. Measurements should
track the fuel in tank.
Full - 84-88 ohms
Half - 40 ohms,
give or take
Empty - 0-2 ohms
If this doesn't check, then
sender or wiring on top of the tank is bad or the sender not
adequately grounded. Senders are typically grounded by a black wire
which is welded to the sender and attached to the body with a sheet
metal screw.
3) If the sender checks OK but
gauge and wiring don't, clean the connections, reconnect the sender
wiring and separate the Fisher connector (located just outboard of
the fuse block under the dash). The gauge should then read past
full. Ground the tan wire in the dash side of the Fisher connector
and the gauge should read empty. If not, you probably have a bad
gauge or possibly a dash wiring problem. Go to Step 5.
4) If the gauge checks OK, then make the same
resistance checks to the tan wire in the body side of the Fisher
connector. If the readings are different than those at the sender,
body wiring has a problem and requires detailed inspection. If they
look OK, then the Fisher connector is probably dirty.
5) Clean and reconnect Fisher connector, pull the
connector off the back of the gauge and make the same resistance
checks to the tan wire. If they don't check, you have a dash wiring
problem. If they check OK, your gauge is bad. Gauges can be
bench-checked but this is best left to a specialist.
Note: As noted at the beginning of the page, Mr. Aldrich passed
away in 2011 and graciously allowed me to use some information from
this website before his passing.
Ref: your question about gasoline and additives:
What horsepower engine do you have? If
high performance, does it have the domed pistons for the higher
compression?
For the lower horsepower engines you can safely run 87 octane. I prefer to
use alcohol free gas when I can find it. No additive.
Same thing on high performance engine, use 91 or 93 octane, no additives and
no alcohol.
Alcohol has less power than gasoline. 10% alcohol will reduce gas mileage
and horsepower.
Gasoline has a heat value of 20,400 BTUs while ethanol has a heat value of
12,800 BTUs. This means when compared to gasoline, ethanol will have only 60
percent of the heat value of gasoline
They way racers go faster with alcohol is to build the engine with high
compression ratio and increase the mixture to 9.0 instead of the 14.7 for
gasoline so they are burning a lot more alcohol to make more horsepower.
This requires a special carburetor or other induction system to handle the
volume.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chris: On the subject of your tail light problem, the 1961 and 1962
Corvettes had their tail lights located low in the trunk where the
sockets could be damaged by trunk items coming in contact with them. In
1962, light gray plastic protective cones were placed over the four tail
light plugs to protect them from damage. These protective cones are
reproduced, and I recommend that you purchase a set for your 1961.
As to the damage that can occur to the in trunk part of the tail lamp
assembly, each connector plugs into the tail light assembly and is
retained by two plastic pins molded in to the sides of the plug-in
socket. If one of these gets broken off, the socket plug will become
cocked in such a way that one of the two spring loaded contacts may not
properly contact one of the bulb contacts. In the worst case, the
spring loaded contact may contact the grounded lamp housing, resulting
in a blown fuse. A broken off pin can be repaired without replacing the
plug assembly. You can drill a hole in the socket where the pin is
missing and fabricate a plastic pin out of a plastic rod obtainable from
hobby stores and use JB Weld to secure it in place. Drill the hole
slightly smaller than the plastic rod diameter to make a tight fit prior
to JB Welding it in place. You can even use a tooth pick.
The gas tank is grounded with a black 18 gauge wire that connects to the
tail light ground wire in the rear wiring harness. The engine block,
not the frame, is the ground source for all electrical system in your
car. If this black ground wire somehow is not there or is an open
circuit somewhere in the wiring harness, the proper way to ground the
gas tank is to run an 18 gauge or larger wire from one of the sender
screws down through the rocker panel area and up to the instrument
housing where you should attach it to one of the 1/4 inch screws that
attach the instrument housing to the metal structure, which is an
excellent ground point. All the electrical systems, the horns, the
lighting, clock, and the instruments (except the radio and wiper motor,
which have their own ground wires) connect to the engine block via a 12
gauge black with white stripe wire that connects to the driver's side
upper rear rocker arm screw. This ground wire must be in excellent
shape and well connected to the rocker arm cover screw, or nothing in
the car will operate properly, if at all.
When you finally get your gas gauge working properly using the original
black gas tank ground wire, you will likely note that the gas gauge
pointer moves to the right when the brakes are applied. This is a
result of a factory screw-up with the 1961 and 62 Corvettes. When they
added the two additional tail lights, they neglected to use a larger
ground return wire and stayed with the 18 gauge wire, which is
inadequate for all those lights and the gas tank sender. The resulting
electrical imbalance results in the gas tank pointer moving when the
brakes are applied. The only way to fix this is to run a separate
ground wire from the gas tank to the instrument housing as described
above.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/06/2021
I am Chris and I just joined the solid axle corvette club. I recently
purchased a 1961 Corvette. My original program was that the right blinker
worked great but when I selected the left blinker, the green arrow on my dash
came on but did not blink and the front white left blinker light came on but did
not blink. Same for the left rear lights. From a blog someone told me that I
likely needed to replace my turn signal flasher on my front driver’s side fuse
box. I found out from this blog where that fuse box was located….thank you very
much Larry!!! I bought the replacement flasher, installed it and it solved my
blinker and brake light problems which was very helpful, especially in Texas
since I have to get the car inspected before I can get my plates (I bought the
car from a dealer in Minnesota). However my new issue is that now the rear,
left inside tail light does not come on with the running lights. I had put a
new bulb in it and both filaments look fine. Any thoughts on my problem? Thank
you for any help.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Chris,
First thing, check to see if there is 12 volts in that socket. If you have
voltage, check to verify a good ground. The rear lights ground to the frame.
It could be a bad socket or a loose wire on the back of the socket.
Let us know what you find.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Check the position of your turn
signals. Make sure it is in the neutral position. These switches have a bad
habit of moving slightly to one side (usually left turn). It will not be enough
to cause the blinker to engage - but it will turn off that tail light.
**********
06/03/2021
Can you tell me where the fuse box is on a 1961 Corvette? I need to replace
the turn signal flasher.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chris: The fuse box is located on the firewall on the driver's side just in
front of the parking brake assembly. In order for the turn signals to work
properly, the parking light and tail light bulbs (all six) must be in
working order or it won't flash properly, or at all. The turn signal
flasher operates properly using the current draw from the bulbs. Also, the
turn signal switch must be in good working order. All the bulbs are two
filament bulbs. One filament, the skinnier one, works the running lights
when the headlights are on. The turn signals in the rear use the same
filaments, the thick ones, that the brake lights use. They work together in
the rear. When the brakes are applied, the brake light filaments are
interrupted for the turn signals.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/30/2021
54 vette choke knob
Any tricks to removing choke cables and knob from on a 1954 vette? I
plan to have the cables replaced. Thanks, Tex
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: No trick - Loosen cables
from the carbs, the knob attaches to the dash with a large nut on the
back of the dash, loosen the nut and slide the choke cable assembly out
of the carbs, firewall and dash.
**********
05/30/2021
G'day
I have just got a 1959 Corvette
The seats are loose, no holes in floor.
Questions
1/ Do you have any guidance where to locate the seats before drilling the
holes?
2/ Are the underbody plates mounted with the nut facing to ground?
If not do you need to cut hole for nut to fit into?
3/ Are the underbody plates bolted on the outside holes or riveted on?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mike
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Look at the assembly manual for how they
are mounted. For a 1957, it is sheet J2. The nut plates are installed from the
bottom, not in the car. The floor is flat where the nutplates are located.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
1. Below is a illustration of the 59 interior to help you locate your seats
properly
2. the mounting plates are oriented with the nuts down. See mounting
illustration
3. The plates should be riveted in place.
Good luck - John
Note: if you're having trouble locating your seat rails - slide the seat all
the say back on the rails, set the seat frame in the car against the rear
bulkhead.
This gives you a full range of adjustment. Make sure when slid
forward the seat (cushion) does not interfere with the transmission hump.
This is adjusted by the side to side location of the seat.
**********
05/27/2021
I’m redoing the front suspension on my 1960 (5034). My question is should I leave the original inner upper pivot shaft?
What I have read it is the most important part of the job. The new cap only goes on a few rotations and bogs down, the
old caps spin right on. What I can figure is it is a 3/4 by 11 can’t find a die to clean threads. Also read where you
can make the tool to thread new pivot shaft in with old shaft parts but see Paragon part number 10538 is a pivot shaft installer,
is that for this pivot shaft? I called their tech line and the guy was what does the catalog say, it doesn’t. Thanks
From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Are the new caps the same thread pitch? Your description suggests wrong
thread pitch.
I cannot tell from the picture, are threads damaged? Are they rusty or
encrusted with dirt, etc?
You can clean threads with a wire brush without damaging them. If they are
damaged on the starting end I have cleaned large threads like that with a
triangle file and carefully working to make them match with the good
threads.
Verle
From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Examine the threads on the shaft and you should find there is wear. That is why
the new nuts do not fit. Understand how this works. As the suspension
compresses and the A arm moves, the end nuts rotate. If they are worn, it may
have play.
Getting the new upper inner shaft installed takes a lot of force. I stood
on a breaker bar to get the shaft to turn until equal amounts of thread are
showing on both sides. If the fitting weld lets go, a new one will need to
be welded in.
That installation tool is not useful. I have one that I did not use. I
used the lower outer shaft as a tool. The bushing and pivot bolt are the
same thread as the upper inner shaft. Put the bushing on the outer shaft
threads, screw the pivot bolt into the bushing until it contacts the end of
the shaft and you have a tool to screws the shaft in with.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: If the old caps (nuts) thread
on with no resistance but the new ones do - the new ones are of the wrong
thread. Don't force them. Have you purchased a new pivot shaft yet - try
the new nuts on the new shaft. If the new shaft threads are different, they
will not install in your original equipment.
**********
05/01/2021
In 1983 I purchased a garage-fire Corvette which was located just a few blocks
from Noland Adam's home in Albany, CA. I really got into rebuilding it at the
time, joining the Bay Area chapter of NCRS. My wife and I even hitched a few
rides down to the meetings with Noland. Here it is, 2021, and after a stock car
racing period, during which time the Vette just
sat,
I got back to work on my "driver" several years ago. The burned car left me an
almost original chassis, engine, T10, and the original hardtop. The car is about
95% complete but one thing that bugs me is that the hardtop lines up with all
connection points except for one on the deck lid, it's about 3/8" off and I can
see no way to make it fit. The body that we used came from a Corvette wrecking
yard in Yuba City, CA. Noland likely remembers it, although it's long gone
today.
So the body is not the one that the original hardtop was mated to. This could be
the main, or the problem. Does SACC have any ideas about this, or
heard of any fixes?. I can only think of plugging the hole and drilling a new
one. Anything would be appreciated. Thanks,
Joel
From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Joel,
Measure the hole locations on both sides on the deck lid. I assume the
deck lid is lined up well with the body.
Hard tops will can and will distort if they are not stored with the
right supports.
I suspect you can move that part of the hard top over enough to get the
bolt in. Make sure the other bolt is not tight and try to push the
misaligned part into place. You push and hold while wife starts the bolt.
You may have to release the latches on the front to get the back started
then latch the front.
Don't ask how I learned about the hard top "warping".
Verle
**********
04/25/2012
Any thoughts on Needle bearings on King pins.
Found info on the web. [ A king pin kit with a Torrington needle bearing ]
Replaced Kings Pins years ago, that were frozen in place.
Had to Heat the H out of the spindle to get the old ones out of My
1960 C1, serial number 100
JOHN
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I installed needle bearings in my 57 about 2001. Over the last 20 years we
have driven it over 40,000 miles, most of that on long road tours with no
problems.
I have been diligent in greasing all 22 front suspension zerks about every
1000 miles including on road tours frequently at oil change shops. I have
always insisted in going into the pit with the worker so I could point out
all the zerks.
Verle
**********
04/14/2021
Hi,
I am I the process of fixing my car. I could really use
some help applying the dash pad. Any suggests or someone who knows how to do
this?
Frank
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Corvette Central and Al Knoch
Interiors offer DVDs that show how to do this. There are also U-Tube videos
available, if you search C1 Dashpad Installation
**********
04/08/2021
In
September
2020, your officers answered some questions about speedometer
cables and bouncing speedometer needles on my 1959. I also searched your posts
for information on removing my speedometer and tachometer. I have all the wires
labeled, bolts removed but can’t figure out how to remove the wiper cable pull
knob on the instrument panel. Please advise. Thank you.
Eric
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Eric,
to release the switch from the cluster housing.
Good luck,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Eric: Disconnect the battery. Then you reach up and disconnect the
speedometer and tachometer cables. Remove the 1/4 inch bolts that hold the
instrument housing to the dashboard structure. Pop out the instrument light
bulbs in the speedometer and tachometer. The oil pressure gauge is a
mechanical gauge with a copper line connecting it to the engine. Be careful
not to damage it. You probably will have to remove the screws holding the
Ammeter/Oil Pressure gauge from the instrument housing. Put a thick towel
over the steering wheel hub to protect it. Pull the instrument housing
forward as much as possible so you can access the screws holding the
tachometer and speedometer to the instrument housing.
The wiper control is a twist knob, not a pull knob. Loosen the set screw
and remove the knob from the control shaft There is a hex nut holding the
wiper control to the instrument panel. Remove it with a socket and the
control comes loose from the instrument housing.
Larry Pearson
Addendum
from Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bill Huffman made a good point that I forgot. I now recall that the wiper
control is not held on by a hex nut, but with a round nut with two slots.
You don't need a special tool to remove it, you can improvise by using long
nose pliers. Grind the tips as necessary to fit into the slots, and use the
plier's handles to turn the nut.
Larry Pearson
**********
03/29/2021
Was wondering if you could tell me if
you can “interchange” channel selector “push buttons” from a 59 to a 62 Corvette
Wonderbar radio. I have a 62 radio I need to make look like a 59. I understand
the push buttons are made differently. Also, are the “Chrome Face Plates”
interchangeable? Thanks.
Dennis.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Ecklers Corvettes
800-327-4868 sells faceplate/bezel/pushbutton refurbish kits for 58/60 and 61/62
Corvette wonderbar radios. Contact them to see if they are mechanically
interchangeable.
From
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Dennis,
Wonderbar knobs, push
buttons & faceplate are different between 1959 and 1962 radios but functionally
are all the same. Kits to convert or restore are commercially available from
most Corvette vendors.
The link below is from Corvette Central so you can see
what's available.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/radio/radio-rebuild/1959/?count=15
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dennis. The 1958-1960 Corvette Wonder Bart radios are the same and have
flat ends on the push buttons, The 1961 radios are the same as the 58-60
radios, except that the button faces are rounded. The 1962 Radio was a
completely new design. The case is larger and the large aluminum filter
capacitor was moved from the left side to the rear of the unit. From 1958 -
61, the large aluminum filter capacitor on the left side had a tendency to
interfere with the cowl vent actuator mechanism and was easily damaged by
it. The face plate and buttons on the 62 radio have the same appearance as
the 1961 radios. The wonderbar switch on the 62 radio has a different feel
to it when actuated. Instead of the microswitch click-click feel as it is
depressed, it has simply a smooth push connection feel when activated. The
face plates of the 1958-62 radios all look the same and are easily removable
and are interchangeable, but that is not what you need. The push button
assemblies are integral to the internal tuning mechanism and would be
extremely difficult to remove and interchange. Find a 58-60 radio and do a
swap with someone who needs a 62 radio. I have a 1960 radio and need a 1962
radio.
Larry Pearson
**********
03/27/2021
I have a 1962 corvette that to the best of my knowledge has a 1962 block and
a1963 transmission.
I recently had a new clutch and throwout bearing installed.
Since then the car drives differently. first the clutch pedal has to be
depressed to the floor to shift, which was not the case before the work.
The clutch pedal would actually get stuck to the floor if it was depressed
that far before the replacement.
The concerning thing is that the car shakes (jumps) when in gear (all gears)
when driving down the road, It will now when coasting with the clutch pedal
pushed or when accelerating.
Is there adjustments to be made?
Greg
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
The clutch to the floor "should" be just an adjustment of the linkage. If
that does not cure that problem then who ever installed the new parts needs
to make it right.
You say the car shakes in all gears. Does this happen at a certain engine
RPM or does it happen at a certain speedometer reading?
If at engine RPM that suggests something related to the engine is out of
balance, such as the new clutch that was installed.
I have had several new pressure plates/clutch disks significantly out of
balance. Started having them balanced as a matter of course before
installing. I remove flywheel, which is a known good part and have the new
clutch balanced on the flywheel.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The clutch pedal travel is adjusted by
lengthening / shortening the clutch push rod (847) that connects the cross shaft
(709) to the clutch wishbone.(489K). This is accomplished by screwing the push
rod clevis (883) up or down the rod. See attached drawing for reference
numbers. The shaking can be several things. If it didn't shake before you had
the work done, it shouldn't shake now. If the clutch assembly (Disc and/or
pressure plate is out of balance that will cause a shutter, but most replacement
parts don't require balancing. The crankshaft where the pilot shaft of the
transmission is stabbed has a brass bearing or bushing. If this was
inadvertently removed and not replaced - you will get a violent shaking at all
speeds and gears (common oversight).
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Greg: You need to consult with section 6R, "Clutch", of the Corvette
Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12, which is the only official shop manual
for C 1 Corvettes and is a "Must Have" for C1 owners. If you don't have a
copy it can be purchased from any of the major Corvette parts suppliers. By
reading Section 6R, you will learn a lot about how the clutch system works
in your car and how to make adjustments.
Whenever changing a clutch, the clutch free travel must be adjusted. This
procedure is found in page 6R-3 of ST-12. Normally, clutch free travel is
about 1" before the clutch linkage starts to disengage the clutch. If it is
too much, you will have to push the clutch pedal too far to disengage the
clutch. If it is non-existent or worse, the clutch can slip all the time,
and you will burn it up. Maybe you installed a throwout bearing of the
wrong length. If so, adjustments won't fix it. Your car originally came
with a Borg & Beck style pressure plate. Maybe someone put in a diaphragm
type pressure plate, which your car is not set up for.
Clutch pedal total travel adjustment procedure is given on page 6R-3. It
sounds like this may need adjusting. Normally, changing a clutch and
throwout bearing does not affect this adjustment.
Clutch pedal repositioning adjustment is given on page 6R-3 to 6R-4. It
sounds like this may need to be adjusted. Normally, changing a clutch and
throwout bearing does not affect this adjustment
If you paid a mechanic to do the work, the result you describe is totally
unacceptable, and you should take the car back to have it fixed. Because
your mechanic may be totally unfamiliar with vintage Chevys, you should take
your ST-12 Manual with you. Your car is probably older than your mechanic.
Maybe, you too.
Larry Pearson
Also
from John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Greg - you casually
mentioned your clutch would stick when pressed to the floorboard. This may not
have been your major concern, but it is a problem that needs addressing, so here
goes. This can be caused by several things. See
the attached illustration: The return spring (630) on the cross shaft (709) is
designed to give resistance to the pedal when you clutch. As you continue to
depress the pedal, this spring crosses the axis of the cross shaft and becomes
an assist rather than a resisting force. This is designed to allow you to relax
a little when holding the clutch in at - say - a stop light. 1) If your
clutch pressure plate springs are weak they may not overcome the return spring
on your cross shaft, however, they would have to be very weak to cause this. If
this is your problem - replacing the clutch should solve this. More likely 2)
the clutch return spring (630) attached to your cross shaft (709) is the
problem. Where the spring changes from a resisting force to an assisting
force, as you depress the pedal, is adjustable. The adjustment is made with
the bracket (635). It should never cause the pedal to stick down. Several
things may cause this 1) You have the wrong return spring (630). This spring
should be a 17 coil spring. 2) the return spring (630) attaches to the cross
shaft bracket (635) by a link (636) which is about 1" long. If this link is
missing and the return spring (630) is connected directly to the bracket (635)
it requires the return spring to be stretched further than it is designed to be,
and will significantly increase its tension strength. When the clutch is
depressed to the point the return spring becomes an assist, the increased pull
on the spring may become more than the pressure plate springs can overcome, and
could cause the clutch to fail to return properly. Check to verify you have a
correct return spring and the attaching link is there. Good luck - John
**********
03/25/2021
Hello, I recently placed the body onto a new frame. I did not personally
remove the connections under the hood. Can you direct me to a schematic showing
the connections and grounding straps for the 1962 corvette.
Regards Mark
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapteer President:
Mark: The schematic for the 1961-62 Corvettes is shown on page 12-14,
Figure 19, of the official Chevrolet service manual for all C-1 Corvettes,
Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12. If you don't have a copy, it
is a "must have" for all C-1 Corvette owners, and is available in reprint
form from all major Corvette parts suppliers. You also need a copy of the
Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) for the 1962 Corvette, which
tells how the entire car was assembled, and is available from the same
sources as ST-12. Page B 146-147 shows how the wiring is routed under the
hood. By paging through the AIM, most of the questions you might have will
be answered.
As far as grounding goes, all electrical systems must be grounded to the
engine block, which is connected to the negative side of the battery. The
frame is not a good ground. Because the fiberglass body does not conduct
electricity, every lamp and electrical component in the car must have a
separate ground wire that ends up going to the main ground wire for most of
the car's electrical systems, which is a 12 gauge black with white stripe
wire, which is connected to the driver's side upper rear rocker arm screw.
This must be there, and in good condition, or nothing works. In addition,
the radio has its own ground wire, which connects from the 1/4-20 bolt that
connects the radio to the support bracket and goes through the firewall to
the passenger side upper rear rocker arm cover screw (see ST-12, page
13-3). The wiper motor also has a separate ground wire that connects its
mounting plate to the same rocker arm cover screw as the radio ground (see
ST-12, page 12-5, figure 5). The voltage regulator case is grounded to the
engine block via the woven shield that encompasses the generator field and
armature wires. It connects to a screw on the generator housing, which
connects electrically to the engine block.
If your car has a radio, there are two heavy woven copper ground straps that
connect each side of the front engine mount to the frame (see ST-12, page
13-7). This makes the frame a "ground Plane" for the radio antenna for
improved reception, which is also grounded to the frame in the trunk (see
ST-12, page 13-4). There are also filter capacitors on the generator
(connects to the armature terminal), the voltage regulator, and the ignition
coil, designed to filter out electrical noise in the radio (see ST-12, page
13-5, figure 4).
Larry Pearson
**********
03/09/2021
Hi
Thank you for the information on the windshield wiper bracket mount on
my 58. I had read that it was in that location for the fuel injection cars
but wanted your input to confirm.
My follow up question is did they put the mount/bracket on cars that did
not have the wiper sprayer option ? My car has no sign of sprayers but has
that bracket with no tank.
Thank you again
Barry
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry: This is very interesting. The windshield washers were an option in
1958, and maybe your car was ordered to delete that option and the factory
mistakenly bonded an inner fender for FI and washers to your car. That
bracket was screwed to the inner fender before the inner fender was bonded
to the outer fender, because it was much easier to do it that way. If you
remove it, there is no paint under it. Either that or someone removed the
sprayers and filled the holes. Look under the dash for evidence of this.
Or maybe your car was wrecked and a FI front end with washers got bonded
on. There are endless possibilities here.
The presence of this bracket does not, in itself, prove that your car is an
original FI car. If it is, there is a rectangular nut plate riveted to the
driver's side inner fender for mounting the FI air cleaner. This was also
attached to this inner fender before the inner fender was bonded to the
outer fender.
If it turns out that your car is a washer delete and you are restoring it to
be judged, you should remove the bracket and fill in the holes. Also, there
was a large cylindrical vacuum storage tank mounted to the inner fender
above the battery on washer equipped FI cars. Is that there?
Larry Pearson
**********
03/07/2021
I have a 1959 corvette and am trying to install
the rear bow weather strip. The weather strip has 2 sets of two holes at
the latch positions, does the latch fit over the weather strip and the
screws go thru it or are the holes in the weather strip just access holes to
reach the latch screws. Also is there a trick to getting the weather strip
lip to stay on the rear bow so it can be glued or stapled?
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Order of assembly - top bow -
weatherstrip - latch - mounting screws. See illustration below.
**********
03/04/2021
Hello, I’m restoring a 1960 barn find. Finally putting the
car back together. However, I need some direction on how to install the new dash
pad.
I know that I need to cut the dash but not sure how much
too cut and where. If there is any help or a source you can point me to I would
greatly appreciate it.
Thank You, Bob
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Bob,
Here is a
link to Part 1 of an 18 part YouTube video from Paragon Reproductions that
shows the whole process.
Good luck
but remember, measure twice and cut less than you think you should.
You can
always trim twice but once cut too short, you buy a new pad.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
**********
03/01/2021
61 corvette fi yes but not on car ign switch wont start car head
lites dont work battery good put no power to ign switch and head
lites found a wire in same harness with the purple wire that goes to
sol had all coating burnt off cant tell what color that wire was
not sure where it went but all wires are on the ign switch
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Tom, you
need a GM 1961 Corvette Assembly Manual that can be bought online.
You are
also going to need almost a complete re-wire so he is going to need Paragon
Reproductions or Corvette Central
where he
can also buy an assembly manual to do the repairs.
Most of
the electrical info & schematics are in their catalogs or with Lectric
Limted's wiring harnesses.
Bill
From
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: CAUTION - CAUTION - CAUTION
: Burnt insulation usually means YOU HAVE A SHORT in your wiring.
Electrical shorts and fiberglass Corvettes don't play well together. Before
you go any further - make sure you have a fire extinguisher readily
available. If you don't - Go Get One. Next thing you need is a volt meter
- you don't need an expensive one - just one that will tell you you have 12
volts at test points. Third - its a good ides to have a helper, operating
the ignition switch and testing for voltage in the engine bay or under the
dash by yourself is difficult. I have included a rough layout of the wiring
(ignition / lighting circuit) for reference, assuming your car has a stock
harness.
Before you start - loosen the connection to your battery sufficiently -
so you can disconnect it immediately if needed.
1) Power comes from the battery - to - the starter solenoid (term B) -
to the Ammeter. (SEE DIA FOR WIRE SIZES AND COLORS)
2) From the Ammeter - to - the Ignition Switch..... and..... Lite switch
.... Clock, Horn Relay, ACC Fuse, Voltaqge Reg, and Cigarette Lighter
Connections (connections are NOT fused).
3) From the Ignition Sw. - power is returned to the Starter Solenoid
(term S) to activate the solenoid and connect the battery to the
Starter.
TESTING FOR PROBLEM
1) verify voltage (12V) at the "B" term of the solenoid. (ignition
off) This is the 6 GA wire off the battery.
2) the Black 12 Ga. wire from that same terminal feeds the Ammeter. The
load side of the Ammeter feeds the Ignition Sw (14 RED) and the Light
Sw.(12 / 14 RED) and others.
Since you have noted a burnt wire in your starter harness it is probably
the wire running from the solenoid to the ammeter. This would
disconnect power from the ignition and lights.
3) Test for voltage on the Ammeter. Single wire is feed (probable burnt
wire) - multiple wires is load. Both should have 12V (ignition OFF).
If no voltage - you have verified the main wire from the solenoid to the
ammeter is open (burnt). Note: This is not your problem, however, it is
the result of a problem. Analyze the wire from the burn to the
ammeter. If you don't find an obvious problem - disconnect the battery
and run a new wire (12 Ga.) to the ammeter. It would be a good idea to
put a fuse in line with this wire until you have everything working
properly. Get a hand full of fuses also. Once the wire is in place -
reconnect the battery. If the temp. wire (fused) to ammeter blows,
disconnect all wires from the load side of the ammeter. Reconnect them
one at a time - disconnect battery / connect single load / reconnect
battery. Does one blow your fuse ? If so that circuit has the short
you are looking for. All these feeds are hot (they do not require the
ignition switch to be activated) except the ignition switch feed. When
testing the ignition circuit the "ON" position connects the instruments
and radio. The START position connects the power to the starter
solenoid.
Once you have identified what circuit (load) is causing the problem, you
simply have to determine if the wire feeding the load is the problem or
the load itself. Good luck.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Tom: If you understand electricity and know how to use a Multimeter
(measures voltage and resistance), you need to consult with the schematic on
page 12-14 (Figure 19) in Corvette Servicing Guide, Chevrolet publication
ST-12. This is the only official shop manual for C-1 Corvettes and copies
are available from all the major Corvette parts suppliers.
If the wiring harness is burned up, you may have to purchase a new wiring
harness for the firewall forward. This wiring harness connects the battery
to all the circuits in the front of the car, including the ignition,
headlights, generator, voltage regulator. horn relay, front turn signals,
starter solenoid, windshield wiper, and more. The purple wire goes to the
starter solenoid and is part of this wiring harness. It sounds to me like
the large red 12-gauge wire from the starter solenoid may not be properly
connected to the large starter lug where the battery cable also connects.
This wire provides battery voltage to all the electrical circuits in the
car. Also, the engine block is the ground point for all the electrical
circuits in the car, and everything connects to a driver's side upper rear
rocker arm cover screw via a 12-gauge black wire with a white stripe. If
this isn't connected, nothing in the car will work.
Without seeing the car, this is all the advice I can give you at this time.
Larry Pearson
**********
02/18/22021
On a 56 Corvette with 2 four carbs, and 1896
heads, Is the generator pulley 3 3/4" or 3 5/8" also are the press marks
rectangular or round? my 56 is #1896 Thank You
Wayne
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Wayne
The correct heads are at that VIN would be 762 and used with the 3 bolt
exhaust manifolds. The 043 generator uses a 3 5/8 pulley. What are press
marks referring to?
Joe
**********
02/18/2021
I have a question about door weatherstrip
installation. The reproduction weatherstrip that I recently bought for the doors
on my 62 has the plastic pins to insert in the holes of the door....so I would
like to know is it necessary to use 3m adhesive when the pins and clips might
suffice? Thank you , Garry
From:
Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:
Yes!! Use the 3m adhesive. Put a THIN layer of the adhesive on both surfaces as
it is a contact cement.
Allow dry til it's slightly sticky to the touch before putting the
weatherstrip onto the door surface.
Don't close the doors for at least 24 hours after applying the
weatherstrip to the doors.
**********
02/09/2021
Hello,
My 1956 air cleaners have a lot of scratches and some
dents. Should I have then restored or just buy replacements? I don't plan to
have the car judged, but I always do like to keep the original equipment if I
can. Expense wise I would just purchase new ones if it was going to be real
costly to restore the originals. If I were going to have them restored, is
there anyone that you can recommend to me to do that job?
Also some time
ago I asked the question of why my two clutch forks that I had put away to use
in my 1956 when I finally got to it, were different. One with a slotted end and
one with an oval hole. You explained the the slotted one was used in a 1957
through 1962. I think that you went on to say the the adjustable ball, held on
with a clip, are hard to find. I do have the complete unit and I wonder which
style you would recommend that I install.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter President:
Michael: I assume that you are referring to the small sealed aluminum air
cleaners. These air cleaners are made up of a thin aluminum stamping.
Once it gets dented, the metal stretches and it can't be simply be pushed
out from the inside without leaving an unsightly ripple. And there is not
enough metal thickness to buff out deep scratches. In other words, they
cannot be restored to the original look if they have dents and deep
scratches. This is also true for the 1958-62 large aluminum air cleaner
tops. If you want the original look, you must buy the reproductions.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael
I would use the factory typical configuration for a 1956. It is easier to
get it correct the first time rather than later on.
Joe
**********
02/08/2021
Hi,
I recently bought a 62 Corvette the wipers do not work? No hum from
the motor cables seems to be in tack how do I tell if it is the transmissions or
the motor?
Thankyou
Bob
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Bob,
Welcome to Corvette
heaven. I'm guessing you just bought either your first Corvette and or your
first C-1.
The tach drive is off your distributor and has nothing to do
with your wipers.
If the tachometer is noisy, it's probably your tach cable.
If it's noisy & erratic, it could be either or both of the tachometer or
cable.
The electric wiper motor switch is on top of the wiper motor
gearbox and is actuated by a pull cable attached to the wiper switch located on
lower left of the instrument cluster closest to the steering column.
The
problem could be switch cable adjustment or being disconnected, a blown fuse or
faulty contact inside the gearbox switch. Use a meter to check for electric
current. If you have WS Washers, the coordinator which mounts on the gearbox
switch plate could be missing, broken or disconnected. Try buying an original
and you'll see why it could be missing.
The wipers don't have
"transmissions", they have a mounting Pully-Shaft and are both driven by cables
off the wiper motor gearbox.
Buy yourself a 1962 Corvette Assembly Manual and
read it before you
accidentally break something that is costly to replace.
Congrats on your new toy,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bob: Things to check:
1. Is the control on the dash actually moving the switch on the top of the
motor? The connection is adjustable with a set screw and washer. All 62's
came with a windshield washer, and the vacuum operated automatic activator
is on top of the wiper motor connects to the motor switch and maybe this is
keeping the motor from operating.
2. The motor gets its electrical ground from a brown wire that connects the
base through the right mounting screw to the upper rear rocker arm cover
screw on the right bank. The motor needs this ground connection, otherwise
it gets its ground through the control cable that goes to the dash, and this
is not a good ground connection. The engine block is the ground point for
all electrical systems in the car. The car body is non-conductive
fiberglass and all electrical systems on the car must have their ground
connections end up on the engine block. The frame is not a good ground.
3. The wiper motor gets its power through the ignition switch brown wire
that connects to the ignition ballast resistor on the passenger (right)
side. Is it there, or is it going somewhere else?
4. If you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the power lead to the
motor case while moving the switch. It should read less than one ohm when
the switch activates the motor. If you get an open circuit no matter where
the switch is, then the motor needs repair. Corvette Central has a
rebuilding service. Or you can open up the cover and see if there is a
broken wire and maybe fix it yourself.
Larry Pearson
Bob: Some additional thoughts on your wiper problem:
1. The wiper motor circuit is not fused. It comes directly off of the
ignition circuit, which is not fused. There is a built in circuit
breaker that protects the ignition circuit against internal shorts in
the Wiper Motor.
2. Complete servicing information for the windshield wiper motor and
system is contained 12-4 through 12-9 in Corvette Servicing Guide,
publication ST-12. This is the only official shop manual for all C-1
Corvettes, and is something you must acquire to help you maintain your
62. It is available from all Corvette parts suppliers. Page 12-9
contains a Trouble Shooting guide for the wiper motor.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: First - the wiper motor operation
has nothing to do with the wiper transmissions and drive cables. Don't tear
into these unless you have to. The motor control located in your dash is not
electrical - it is connected to the wiper motor via a sleeved cable. The actual
electrical switch that turns the motor on and off and controls its speed is on
the motor assembly itself. 1) Make sure you have power to the motor. The motor
feed connects to the ballast resistor in the engine bay on the firewall on the
passenger side by the wiper motor. This is not a fused connection. It feeds
directly from the ignition switch. Switch ON = 12V. With the switch ON you
should have 12V at the ballast resistor and wiper motor. 2) Make sure the motor
is grounded. It should be a jumper between the motor mounting plate and the
engine valve cover mounting screw. 3) Make sure a twist of the wiper switch on
your dash moves the wiper motor actuator slide. And moves it far enough to
activate the motor switch inside the cover plate to which it is attached. 4) If
the actuator doesn't move or you are not sure it moves far enough - loosen the
clamping screw that holds the cable jacket in place and move the actuator by
hand. If after this you get no motor, you probably have a bad motor. You can
disassemble the motor assembly and remove the cover plate to inspect the switch
and speed controls, but I have rarely seen them fail. Good Luck - John
**********
02/07/2021
Hi
Is this a windshield washer tank mount ?
Passenger side wheel well.
Thanks
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter President: Barry
The passenger side washer jar
was used on 58 thru 62 fuel injected cars and your bracket is unique to fi cars.
All others used a diffetent bracket mounted on the drivers side splash pan. The
fi washer equipment was moved to the passenger side due to air cleaner
interference.
Chip Werstein
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Yes!!
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry: Yes it is and it is mounted on the passenger side because your car
was originally fuel injected. On 1958-1962 fuel injected cars, the air
cleaner assembly blocked access to the left hand location, so it was moved
to the passenger side and uses a different type of bracket. Also, because
it is close to the exhaust manifold, a black painted aluminum heat shield
was screwed to the inner fender with three screws to protect the washer
assembly from the heat. The drivers side mounting for carburetor engines
was mounted low on the fender skirt and therefore was not subjected to
exhaust manifold heat,
The windshield washer was and extra cost option until 1962, when it became
standard equipment.
Larry Pearson
**********
02/02/2021
Restoring a 1960 (5034), I have the doors off and can't find any video or
how to on tearing down the doors, removing windows ect. I have an assembly
manual but not very helpful on how to strip everything out.
thanks
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I have taken Um-teen doors apart
and I have to retrain myself every time. They are kinda like a Chinese
Puzzle. Just take your time and don't get frustrated. To take the
window out you don't have to remove the front post and door guts, a lot of
rebuilders do - it just adds to more loose pieces you have to manipulate.
You roll the window up and down to gain access to all the mounting hardware.
1) With the glass (and frame) loose from the regulator (four small screws hold
the glass to the track that runs along the bottom of the window unit) - 2) Lower
the regulator down out of the way. 3) Rotate the window assembly slightly toward
the rear (front up - back down) and it will come out. If it binds up -
don't force it. Move or remove what is binding. With the glass out,
the remaining pieces come out fairly easily. When you're re-assembling it
- go slow - pay attention to how it came apart. The glass and frame go in
last. The door glass frame is notorious for catching on everything.
You will think it won't go back together - inspect the back glass frame - it
will undetectably catch on the door braces and not allow you to set the window
forward enough, thus the window will not roll up and down when assembled.
Note the operation of the window as it rolls down - it rocks back then down.
Good Luck. Let me know if you invent any new words, I'll add them to my
garage dictionary. - -John
**********
1/17/2021
My name is Leo.
I inherited my uncles 58 corvette about 1.5 years ago and I’ll be starting restoration.
First thing first. Fiberglass work. I already had a fiberglass guy look at my car and seems to be on point with the work needed,
(front end needs the most work). He looked at the top of the front end, fenders and hood. The fiberglass is solid,
but has fibers exposed.
My question to you concerns the process only for the top of fenders and hood. I was told to sand and reglass using chop Matt sheets.
I was also told to sand and mix resin with half inch chop strand (the half inch chopped fiberglass that comes in plastic bags-looks
like powder) and brush a new layer over the tops of the fenders and hood.
Then block sand. Is this something that is done? It was suggested because the car sat out for 10-20 years in a field, and even
though the fiberglass is solid, the top is showing fibers. What’s your thought?
Thanks
Leo
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Leo - if the glass is sound, and
it looks like it is, I would just restore the gel coat. This is a spray on
process, it doesn't add significant thickness and it will give you a smooth
surface to prime and paint. You will still want to lightly sand the gel coat
(300 grit or higher) before priming.
**********
1/5/2021
Hi,
I
have the rear axle strut rods off my 61 and would like to replace
the bushings. Does anyone have any experience doing this? I got
replacements from Corvette Central, they said just use WD40 or soapy
water and just "push them into place". It sounds to easy.
Thanks, Mike
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Mike,
When
you're done, the rebuilt strut rod assembly with 2 new bushings needs to
look exactly like what you started with except, it will look & function as
"new".
That
means the bushing steel outer ring & the steel inner ring both need to be
centered in the strut rod ends after assembly even though inner & outer are
of different length.
Whether
you use a mechanical press, a hydraulic press or a big vise for assembly,
that means you need to use spacers on both sides to apply pressure to the
rod end O.D. emboss on one side and to the bushing outer ring on the other
side when pressing them together.
The outer
bushing is a press fit into the rod end, so lube of some type will be
necessary.
Good
luck,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mike
Bill's explanation is correct but the bushings can still be
difficult to press in. To make installation easier i heat the strut rod
ends....im in s.cal so just putting them in the
sun
on a warm day does the job......and put the bushings in the freezer. The rod
will expand and the bushing will contract providing a couple thousands extra
clearance which will make installation much easier.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi
I have noticed the the attached photograph is different then just about
every other 58 Corvette I have seen
Can you identify the difference for me ?
Barry
From:
Joe Lemay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
It is a vacuum wiper motor. I had one in a 55 Chevy. They are a bit of a
problem going uphill in a downpour; stopped.
Joe
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry
As Joe said, you have the wrong wiper motor. Should be electric.
Also the ballast resister is in the wrong location.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi
I have read about some tachs but haven't found any comments on redline at
5500 and what it may have been originally attached to 230 hp I am guessing.
The other redlined higher at 250 and 290
Thanks
Barry
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Barry,
For 1958 thru 1960, the 5500 RPM tach was used on the low HP engine
options which were the 230 HP carbureted,
245 HP dual carbureted &
250 HP w/ FI.
The 6500 RPM tach was specified for higher HP options 275
HP dual carb and 290 HP w/ FI.
Good luck with your restoration project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
This is not a 58 tach. 58 tachs had a rev counter (like spedo has a mileage
counter). This tach appears to be a 60 model. "light green background to 20 -
signal green above that.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry
The tach in your photo is from a 60 to 62 low horse car. Normally
referred to as a 5300 redline. 58 tach had no color band up to the redline, dots
under the numbers and a rev counter. These were used on 230,245 and 250 hp cars.
Chip Werstein
**********
12/17/2020
Hello,
I purchased from a friend a harmonic balancer with a
riveted on pulley, which is about 6 13/16 inches across and my water pump
pulley is 2 3/4 inches high from the inside to the outside of the pulley. The
pulley is 7 1/8 inches across. I was taken off his 265 cubic inch engine. I
began by installing a new crankshaft spacer recently purchased from Corvette
Central. i put some RTV silicone on the inside of the balancer, (recommended by
the machine shop that rebuilt my engine), and installed the balancer. It slid
on 1 1/4 inches, the length of the remaining part of the crankshaft sticking
out. My water pump was also recently purchased from Bill Mock. My water pump
pulley has about 1/8 inch of clearance between it and the balancer pulley,
looking at it from the front and from the side it looks like the balancer pulley
is slightly behind the water pump pulley. Does that all seem correct?
The next question is in regards to my core support that came with my car, a
basket case without a radiator. When taking the car apart a few years ago, I
found that the core support had a hole cut out in the bottom by a torch. Most
likely for a radiator drain cock. Thinking that it was pretty ugly, I took it
and a later solid axle core support to a shop and asked them to cut the drain
hole from the later one and weld it into the support from my 1956. Eventually i
found a radiator and when i slid the radiator into the core support, I found
that the drain is well above the drain hole that I had installed. Looking on
the 1956 assembly manual it looks like the 1956 core support didn't have a
drain hole in the bottom. Is that correct? I guess if it is, I will have to
fill in the hole that put in the bottom of mine.
Thanks for all of your
help now and over the past months.
Happy holidays,
Michael
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael
You have a problem. If the balancer slid on, do not use it. It is an
interference fit that requires light tapping to install onto the crank.
Even if the crank is tapped, stay away from this balancer unless you have it
professionally rebuilt by someone such as Damper Doctor.
There is a small amount of clearance between the two pulleys. They should
exactly line up if you are using the 1956 components or the low horsepower
1957 components.
First, the spacer is required on the end of the crank to account for the
motor support and second gasket that spaces the water pump out. Are you
using a stock motor support for a C1 Corvette?
Second, if you use a higher horsepower water pump pulley it is wider (3/8
vs. 1/2). From the Judging Manual page 180 "Pump
pulley used on 1956 engines and base 220 horsepower 1957 engines has a
smooth conical taper from the belt groove to the fan mount; 1957 optional
engine fan pulley has a "stepped" taper and 1/2-inch "deep-ride" belt
groove."
I know what
this looks like. For my car, the belt stays in place with a 3/8 balancer
pulley and 1/2 water pump pulley.
There is a
hole in the radiator support on the passenger side. See the Assembly Manual
Section 13, Sheet 3. There is a nipple, coupling and petcock, that extends
the petcock below the core support.
-Joe
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: The 1956 through 1960 Corvettes used a copper and brass
radiator that bolts to the core support used for those years. The drain
cock fitting is located on the front of the passenger side of the bottom
tank of the radiator. You reach through the grille teeth to access this
drain cock fitting (if you have fairly skinny arms). Otherwise, get
someone who does, because that is the only way to get to it, unless you
remove the hood. There is no hole in the bottom of the core support for
the 1956 through 1960 cars, because the drain cock is not on the bottom
of the radiator.
Starting in 1961 an aluminum radiator appeared and the radiator core
support was completely redesigned, because the radiator attached to it
in a completely different way. The aluminum radiator mounted to the
support with three rubber donuts, two on the bottom and one on top. A
reason for the rubber donuts was to prevent a corrosive galvanic action
from forming between the aluminum radiator and the steel radiator
support. Also, this approach made it very easy to remove and replace
the radiator. The drain cock and its extension pipe for this radiator
are of all-aluminum construction (to prevent galvanic corrosion) and
exits straight down through a flared oval shaped hole on the driver's
side of the core support. The reason for this was because the aluminum
radiators were of a cross-flow design and the "tanks" were on both
sides, not the bottom and top. Never use brass fittings on an aluminum
radiator.
Larry Pearson
*****************
I have a 1959 corvette that had a
differential grease leak into the brake on the right side. I pulled the
axle and found a bearing with 1 o ring and a 1/8 inch spacer. The bearing
called out for the 58 - 62 has 2 o rings and is the same thickness as the
old bearing with the 1/8 inch spacer. However, when installed the bearing
with 2 o rings has a slight bit of the bearing that is not seated in the
race although I never looked at the positioning on the old bearing prior to
pulling the axle. My 59 has a 57 block so perhaps the rear axle is 57 also
as the bearing race measures slightly less than 1”.
So, are the
bearings of the 57 interchangeable with the bearings called out for the 58 -
62 and why the spacer on my old bearing. The 58 - 62 seems to be a better
bearing as it is sealed and with double o rings I would think it would give
better leak protection.
Jeff
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Jeff,
Just to reiterate
what's in your memo, you have a 1959 Corvette with a defective right rear
bearing seal leaking axle lube into your brake components, you think the old
bearing is incorrect because it is different from the new replacement that
you just bought so now you you think you may have a 1957 engine & rear axle.
Before you buy any more parts,
PLEASE go online to get a copy of the
GM 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12,
then invest in a GM 1959
Assembly Manual plus
buy an NCRS 1953-1967 Corvette Specification book,
both of which you can buy from most Corvette parts vendors.
With
these you need to get acquainted with the part numbers & date codes of what
your 61 year old car has & the assembly manual will tell you what part
numbers it should have.
I suspect a previous owner put in some
similar but not necessarily correct parts because they were cheap or easier
to get.
Good luck on your quest,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jeff: All 1957 through 1962 Corvettes used the same axles. Cars with
Positraction got roller type rear axle bearings and non Positraction
cars got ball bearings. All 1957 through 1962 Corvettes used the same
axle bearings of both types, as applicable. The service roller type
rear axle bearings have not been available for many years. They are
considered to be heavy duty and were also used in taxi cabs. In
addition to the two "O" rings used to seal the bearing outer race to the
axle housing, the bearing also has an inner seal, on the outside only,
to keep the differential gear oil from leaking onto the brake components
but allowing the gear lubricant to lubricate the balls and rollers.. A
failure of either seal will result in a leak. Corvette Central sells new
replacement "O" rings. The bearing seal is not serviceable. You have
to buy a new bearing. Usually bearing failure results in a leak.
The bearing is supposed to be pressed onto the axle shaft all the way to
the flange. There is no spacer that I am aware of. Then a retaining
ring is pressed onto the axle shaft to assure that the bearing stays in
place. The retaining ring is wider than 1/8 inch. This retaining ring
is not a spacer and must be there or the axle might start moving out of
the bearing.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/14/2020
Hello —I have a 1962 Corvette 327 / 340 hp. I’m in the process of installing new
hoses from the expansion tank. I found this cooling system hose routing diagram.
However it doesn’t include the heater core hose connections. Where do those
two hoses plumb in?
Thanks. -Rex
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Rex
That illustration is taken from the 1962 assembly manual. You need a copy
of that manual. The routing of the hoses and clips that hold them in place
is shown.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Rex,
It helps
to use vendor catalogs from folks who sell C-1 parts.
Try
Paragon Reproductions or Corvette Central.
Both diagrams are borrowed from the GM C-1 Assembly Manual for each
particular year. The 1962 GM Assembly Manual is available from most Corvette
parts vendors.
Please get one.
Bill Huffman, Pres
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Heater connections go
to 1 )intake - 2) waterpump - see attached. good luck - John
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
The heater hoses do not connect directly to this over flow system. One
heater hose connects to the water pump, small connection just above the
radiator hose connection. The other heater hose connects to the right front
of the intake manifold, not the hole on top of the intake but on the front
of the intake..Note the hose connection sticking out upper left in the
picture.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Rex: The routing of the two heater hoses plus the two brackets that hold
them and the aluminum tie strap are all pictured in Figure 24 (Heater
Connections) on page 1-13 of the official GM shop manual for the C-1
Corvettes: Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12. If you don't have
this manual, it it a "must have" for C-1 Corvette owners, and is available
in reprint from all the major Corvette parts suppliers.
All the fittings and brackets are available from Corvette Central if you
need them. The part numbers are:
451345 Heater hose bracket on inner fender (W shaped) This screws to the
inner fender fiberglass above the battery.
451316 Heater hose bracket on generator support bracket bolt.
451330 Aluminum tie strap (the long one). The short one ties the two small
hoses going to the aluminum expansion tank.
451326 curved fitting going to the right hand side of the water pump.
451327 straight fitting going to the intake manifold.
The heater hoses were originally held on to the fittings with simple
"Corbin" spring clamps. These are self tightening and work fine with your
13 lb system. If you are going to a higher pressure system you probably
should use a screw type or a tower or worm gear type clamp. These type
clamps are not self tightening and you should re-tighten them shortly after
driving the car. The rubber hoses compress slightly after they thermally
cycle a few times.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/05/2020
I have a 1961 fuelie. Should this car have the generator with the tach drive
or a standard generator
Thomas
From: Bill Huffman,
Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Tach drive
on your 1961 fuelie depends on its HP rating.
A 275 HP w/
7077200 FI and a1010915 distributor with one output that only drives the FI
fuel pump needs a tach drive generator.
A 315 HP FI
has a dual drive distributor that drives both the tachometer and the FI fuel
pump.
If your car
has a lower RPM redline it should be the 275.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From: Larry Pearson, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Your car should have a high performance 35 amp generator with cast steel ends
and dual ball bearings (front and rear). The part number should be 1102268.
According to the Delco Remy application catalog, this generator was also used
on pickup trucks, so it should be common, But it is not, and it gets very
expensive to buy one. Your FI distributor should have a tach. drive fitting
on it for your tachometer.
If you are not having your car judged, any 30 amp generator will work. If you
have a 4:11 or 4:56 rear end or are using low profile tires you should have a
dual ball bearing type generator because of the high engine speeds it will
encounter. It should also have a large diameter pulley to reduce generator
speed.
Larry Pearson
**********
I have just removed the body off my 1960 corvette. I have been razor blade
stripping the last coat of paint (2nd coat painted over orig in
1970). What is the best way to strip the original paint and primer, I have read
about many options.
From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Some enthusiasts don't recommend this method
because unless the surfaces are washed very thoroughly you acn leave behind a
chemical residue that will ruin a new paint job. But with care this can be
prevented. I have attached some photos of the process I have used numerous
times. The color coats (repaints) strip easily but I find teh original factory
coats to be a little more stubborn. I use a chemical stripper (bought from your
paint supplier - not home depot). Put on a good pair of rubber gloves and have
a bucket of clear water by your side at all times. Use a paint brush to apply a
liberal coat of stripper - wait - let it do its job. The paint will bubble up
(you may need a second coat/application of stripper) Use a plastic bondo
spreader (not a metal putty knife or razor blade) to scrape off the stripped
paint. This will almost be a liquid. Scrape the paint off the spreader into a
coffee can or other suitable (throw-away) container. You may need to repeat
this step several times. When you get down to the last coat (primer) scrub the
stripper with steel wool to get to bare glass. Apply one more coat of stripper
and scrub it with a clean steel wool pad - only this time, apply running water
to the area while you scrub instead of scraping the stripper. The last step is
the critical one. Apply plenty of water (from a running hose) while you
scrub/clean the stripper off. This removes the chemical residue that will ruin
your following paint job. The result is a clean glass surface that is not
gouged up or damaged. After the glass dries, a light sand job will prep it for
the repainting process. See photos attached. Good luck !!
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Stephen,
I have stripped numerous C-1 Corvettes over the years. I have used a PPG
stripper designed for use on fiberglass which will not attack the the
fiberglass. It will take off the original lacquer and some factory primer. The
remaining primer needs to be wet sanded off using 220 grit paper. It is a long
and tedious job. Others my suggest faster and easier methods using stronger
stripper etc. but you run the risk of damageing your gelcoat and glass matt.
It has been several years since I've tackled a job like that and there may be
new/better products available
today.
I would check with PPG and other major paint manufacturers for advise.
Chip Werstein
**********
11/12/2020
Hello,
I
have a 1954 Vette with a problem that I hope you can help me with.
I've searched for a solution, but with no success.
The
ignition switch has four positions (LOCK, OFF, ON, START). The finger
guard of the lock cylinder has one hole on the right side for insertion of the
cylinder lock removal tool (AKA paper clip). My lock has become
difficult to get in and out of the LOCK position, so I no longer use the LOCK
position. I’d like to replace the lock cylinder.
I
have seen videos of ignition lock cylinder removal on newer Chevys, but not on
the '54. Newer locks have two holes on the left side of the finger
guard; mine has only one hole on the right. Also, newer locks have an
ACCESSORY position all the way to the left; mine has no ACCESSORY position.
For newer locks the instructions say to put the lock in the ACCESSORY
position, insert the paper clip into the bottom hole, and pull out the
cylinder. Without more explicit instructions that apply to a ’54 I’m
reluctant to move ahead because I don’t want to screw something up. So
here are my questions if you can help.
How
do I remove the lock cylinder on my '54? Do I insert the paper clip when
in the OFF position or LOCK position? Or I just leave things alone and
learn to live with the problem and not use the LOCK position?
Do
you have a recommendation for a replacement lock cylinder? I see that
the Standard Motor Products US21L may work. Another
option is the Dorman 989-037, but the finger guard may be too
large. Also, I've seen references to GM 3772085. I
don't know if that's the OEM part number, and I wouldn't know where to find
it. Any suggestions?
So
that’s the story. I don't want to get the existing cylinder stuck in
the LOCK position, which would render my Corvette undriveable. If you
can provide any guidance, it will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks.
John
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
John
Contact Pete Lindahl 505.412.2389. He is the lock guy. He my even have nos ign
switches. Nice guy, quality work. I have used him for years.
Chip Werstein
**********
11/10/2020
I have a 1962 with a 327 / 340 hp , my garage floor under my tail pipes is
full of black soot every time I start her up and it will clear it self after a
few minutes.
Can you help?
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Black smoke suggest an over rich fuel mixture.
A cold start will have the choke set so the mixture is richer. After a short
time the choke will open reducing the mixture so the black smoke ends.
The choke may be set too rich.
Verle
**********
11/6/2020
As far as I know and can tell, my 1958 never had any windshield washers.
Since I am going to be installing a new one piece front end from the upper
dash forward on my 1956, I am wondering whether windshield washers were an
option. I am thinking of leaving it washers delete as my 1958 appears to
be.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: According to the NCRS Specifications Guide, the windshield
washer on the 1956 was standard equipment until "approximately April of
1956", after which it became FOA 109, a $11.85 option. If you are
planning to have NCRS judge your car and your car is an early one, you might
need this. If you have it, why not install it?
Windshield washers were an extra cost option until 1962, when they became
standard on the car.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael
In 1956, windshield washers were a required option through March
1956. All cars were fully optioned with 2X4 barrel, windshield
washers, power top, parking brake alarm, and courtesy lights. If you
have an early car, those options were present. This was covered in a
bulletin on April
6, 1956.
BTW, there is no such thing as washer delete, radio delete, heater delete;
they were listed as options.
**********
11/2/2020
What is the correct procedure for installing the harmonic balancer? I
would assume that you get it started and then drive it on by placing a piece
of hardwood or a brass cylinder on the center of it and hitting it with a
hammer. I looked in the 1957 Motor's Auto Manual, but it didn't have any
description of how to install one. I just want to make sure that I do it
correctly.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
If you are removing the motor, have the crank tapped for a retaining bolt.
I believe it was a 7/16-20 X 2 1/2. It is a safety issue if you have
heard from someone who had their balancer fall off. I know there were no
balancer bolts in 56-57, but we learn.
If there is a bolt, install the balancer with a threaded rod. Screw
the rod all the way in, then use a washer and nut to pull the balancer on.
Otherwise the threads can strip on a bolt if the fit is tight. Then
remove the rod and replace with a bolt.
If you do not have a threaded hole, use a rubber mallet to drive the
balancer on.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: If your crank snout is threaded, use a grade 8 bolt with a
thick washer(s) to pull the balancer onto the crankshaft.. Choose a bolt
long enough that it threads at least 1/2 inch into the crankshaft threads
before starting the installation Once the balancer is completely seated
on the crankshaft snout, use a bolt and washer as described in the next
paragraph to assure that the balancer stays in place.
If the crankshaft snout is not threaded, you have to pound it on with a heavy
steel hammer and a thick block of steel, brass or aluminum. Do not hammer
directly on the balancer. Wood and rubber hammers won't work.
If the balancer is used and goes on easily, it will come off easily, and that
is not acceptable. If you cannot get a balancer that goes on tightly,
then you will have to find a way to drill and tap the crankshaft snout.
The thread size should be 7/16x20 and the retaining bolt should be 2 1/4
inches long. This bolt length is too short to use to pull the balancer
on. The factory washer part number is (was) 3739422. Corvette
Central can supply the bolt and washer. Also, use a lock washer over the
flat washer.
One more thing. A special round washer type spacer with a notch to clear
the key should be on the crankshaft snout to space the balancer out by the
thickness of the front cross member engine mount to cause proper belt
alignment. This always ends up missing whenever an engine gets rebuilt.
Once the engine is together, there is no easy way to determine if this spacer
is in place. If you have access to a loose crankshaft, measure the
length of the snout and then use a caliper depth gauge to see if your snout is
slightly shorter, indicating that the spacer is in place. The original
GM part number for the spacer was 3734984. Corvette Central can
supply it.
Larry Pearson
**********
10/18/2020
Wondering if someone has an opinion on new black carpet for a 62
-Garry
From:
Bill. Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Garry,
Most carpet from Corvette suppliers will be from Al Knoch Interior.
Their stock 1959-1962 black carpet is a black/olive tuxedo carpet intended to be
identical to GM original. I'm sure there may be vendors who sell a true black if
that's what you want.
It' your car, make yourself happy.
One thing I've learned in 5o + years of owning Corvettes, the next owner will
most likely want it in stock condition so they don't need to re-do it.
Hope every mile is a happy memory,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
10/15/2020
Hello — I just bought a 1962 Corvette with the 327 / 340 hp engine,
numbers’ matching, a little rough, but it’s all there. However
someone sanded the paint down to the fiberglass. 1) What is the
best/safest primer to use for covering this bare surface? 2) How does one
safely remove oil spots from the bare fiberglass surface? 3)
What’s the correct color for the rear end housing, the 3rd member
‘pumpkin’, and the backing plates? 4) Can you recommend a written
source which provides detailed pictures, restoration info, component colors,
hose, line routing, etc.?
Thanks. -Rex
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:
The best source is the National Corvette Restoration Society.
Scroll down to the 61-62 manual. This is a 364 page manual with detailed
information.
If you want a correct/original restoration I suggest you join NCRS. There are
chapters across the country.
Many of us in SACC are also NCRS members.
Don't be afraid to ask questions here.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Rex: On questions #1 & #2, you need to contact a Corvette body shop
in your area that has an excellent reputation for painting Corvettes.
The car was originally painted with Acrylic Lacquer and this material has been
banned by the EPA in most areas of the country. Major paint
manufacturers like Ditzler no longer make all the toners that are required to
make the correct colors. Also the primer originally used is no
longer available. The cars were not clear coated. Don't plan on
painting a Corvette yourself or having a general purpose body shop paint it.
Properly painting a Corvette can take six months and costs lots of money.
At least your car has already been stripped down to bare fiberglass, and this
saves you lots of money. Now it will be easy to determine if any
bodywork is required. On the assembly line, it took about four hours to
primer and paint the car, and the resulting finish had lots of orange peel and
was not even close to being show quality.
On questions #3, the entire chassis including the brake lines and backing
plates, brake drums, one side of the brake master cylinder and the line going
up to it, the front and rear suspensions including the springs and shock
absorbers and rear axle assembly, the rear axle rebound straps and even the
exhaust system (most of it) was painted with chassis blackout paint.
Prior to 1962, the cast iron transmissions were painted with chassis blackout
paint. The 1962 cast iron three speed transmission was probably painted
chassis black, but not the 4-speed and Powerglide transmissions, which were
aluminum. This final blackout painting was done just prior to the body
being mounted on the frame. This paint was an inexpensive petroleum
based material, that is referred to as "tar"paint and quickly
deteriorates. I recommend using black enamel, and originally the finish
was glossy when new. The rear axle rebound straps don't look painted because
the paint they used absorbed into the material. I have road test photos
and assembly line photos of new Corvettes that prove all of this.
On question #4, if you are going to have NCRS judge your car, you need to join
the organization and obtain their judging manual and do everything it tells
you to do. This manual is a "cook book" that judges use down
to the letter. In SACC, we do not judge Corvettes. We maintain and
enjoy them. Doing everything in the NCRS judging manual gets very
expensive. If you are not going the NCRS route, the Corvette Assembly
Information Manual (A.I.M.) should tell you everything you need to know about
how the car was assembled, The A.I.M. for the 1962 Corvette is available
as a reprint from most Corvette parts suppliers.
**********
10/06/2020
My 62 starts and idles great. When I take off it starts to miss on 1st
2nd and third, not as bad on fourth. I replaced plug wires, cap and
rotor, and rebuilt the carb but nothing is working.
-Adnan
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Adnan: Make sure that your
timing is properly set. The timing mark on your harmonic balancer (damper)
may have shifted due to deterioration of the rubber in its construction.
To verify that the timing mark is correct, you will have to determine the actual
top dead center. You can do this by removing the #1 spark plug and
carefully turning to engine over with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to
determine when the piston is at the top of travel. If your balancer is
retained by a bolt, you can slowly turn the engine over using a 1/2 inch
ratchet. If not, remove all of the spark plugs and turn the engine over
using the fan blades, if it is rigid (no fan clutch). If none of the
above, you will have to turn the engine with a screwdriver on the teeth of the
flywheel and with the use of a helper.
Once you have determined top dead center, mark it with a Sharpie on the edge of
the balancer is it is different from the factory mark. Then replace the
balancer as soon as you can, because it is defective.
If the timing is correct, try a new coil. Check the spark plug wires for
continuity with an ohm meter and insulation breakdown by looking for sparking in
the dark. If the wires are of the radio suppression type, the resistance
should be about 1000 ohms (I think). Ten thousand ohms or higher is too
much. Check the ballast resistor for continuity with an ohm meter.
It should be between 0.5 ohms and 1.5 ohms.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Adnan - Larry is correct to suspect timing, but I would suspect the distributor
advance more than a change in the harmonic balancer. You can check this
with a timing light. Hook up the timing light and watch the timing mark on
the timing chain cover and its relation to the mark on the balancer as you goose
(highly technical term meaning open rapidly) the throttle. You should see
the timing mark move in relation with the timing chain cover tab. If it
don't you have a vacuum advance problem (usually presented as a faltering of the
engine during acceleration) or a mechanical advance problem (more typical of
what you're describing). When you first crack your throttle you should see
the timing drop (vacuum advance function) then advance with RPMs (mechanical
advance function). Otherwise it sounds like you've addressed the other
suspects. Good luck - John
**********
09/29/2020
I have been restoring my ’59 for 30+ years. I’m on the downhill side of
this project. But, I’ve run into a problem of how to adjust the door hinges
& align the doors. Every source I’ve found only shows the locations of the
hinge bolts which control the alignment & some mentions possibly using
shims. However, I’ve found no info on what procedure or order to follow. My
efforts so far have been less that acceptable. Can you suggest where I can
find such info? Thanks for your time & any guidance or help you might offer.
Lewis
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Lewis: The procedure is found
in the only official GM shop manual for C-1 Corvettes: Corvette Servicing
Guide, Publication ST-12. Reproductions of this manual are available from
all the major Corvette parts supply sources.
The explanation is found on page 1-19, DOOR HINGES and refers to figure 31 on
page 1-17. The door is held to the upper and lower door hinges by three
bolts per hinge. The bolt access holes were originally covered with round
black felt covers to keep rain water out of the area behind the door panel.
If you loosen (don't remove) these three upper and lower bolts, the door can be
shifted up and down and back and forth to a small degree. As you adjust
the doors as necessary for proper alignment with the body exterior, just tighten
one bolt of the three until you have the the door in proper alignment and then
tighten the other two bolts. If the door needs to move outward, you will
have to add round steel washers between the hinge and the door. If the
door needs to move inward, you will have to remove any shims that are already in
place. If there are no shims in place, you might have to take your car to
an experienced Corvette body shop for help on this.
There are two large Phillips head screws that hold the hinges to the body.
There is no adjustment here, so leave them alone. Be sure to lubricate the
flat friction springs in the body part of the hinge assemblies. Use
Lubriplate light white grease. There is an upper and lower flat spring in
each door hinge. These are to keep the door fully open with their friction
so the door doesn't close on you when you want it to stay open.
After you have the door properly adjusted, be sure to replace the round seals
using an adhesive. If there were no seals, use a couple layers of masking
tape over each of the six holes.
Larry Pearson
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Lewis,
I had the
same problem with two different full restorations, this is how I did it.
Work
carefully, this is not the time to scratch the paint.
Attach
the hinges to the body "close but very loose" then mount the
door on the open position hinges.
Attach
the hinge bolts to the door "close but very adjustable".
Measuring
from the floor, lift & support the door level as close to final position
as possible then tighten the body screws to finger tight adjustable.
Cut 8 or
10 cardboard shims measuring 4" x 8". Tape them equally spaced
around the door opening, lengthwise across the sill to protect the paint.
Close
& latch the door. The fit / door gap should be uniform all around.
If it is,
Tighten the all door attachment bolts securely. If it's not, adjust the
latch on the body & try again.
Open the
door carefully without applying any extra load and tighten the hinge
to body screws.
You
should be done,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
**********
09/26/2020
I just bought a 1959 corvette that has Fuel Injection emblems on it and I am
trying to locate the build information to determine if it was actually built as
a fuel injected car. The original engine is long gone and just getting
started with the job of replacing tired parts.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Jeff,
The bad news is that there is no data base that contains the information you're
looking for regarding 1953-1962 Corvettes.
The paint & engine code plate under the hood wasn't added till 1963
production start.
The good news is that with publications such as the Corvette Black Book, the
NCRS 1953-1967 Corvette Specifications Guide and the GM 1959 Assembly
Instruction Manual, by comparing your car against the standard configuration of
the 4 optional engines, three transmission options, plus the numerous RPO's, the
car will tell you what it was.
Just remember, owner modifications over the last 61 years may give you
conflicting testimony. You are it's archivist, historian & conservator. Take
pictures.
If your car is a fuel injection car with the engine changed, all the various
components or their previousmounting located under the hood will be where the
AIM required them to be.
Good luck in your investigation
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter
**********
09/23/2020
Hi
I have a 1958 Corvette 283 w/4 bbl. & 3 speed.
It has been taking a break in my barn since 1970ish
I just started cleaning up parts that I took off in 1976 and seeing what I
have.
I have a few questions.
Did GM / Chevrolet put 1957 intakes on the 1958 cars on the assembly line ?
I also have the 7 fin valve covers which from what I understand is put on
"optioned" engines.
Also on passenger side fender there is a red/white/blue emblem bar where the
fuel injection emblem would go on a fuelie.
Attached is a picture of each.
Mine is definitely a 1958 with all the fixings ( hood louvers, trunk Spears,
etc ) correct vin for that year.
Any input on this would be helpful ?
Thank you
Barry
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Barry,
In the 25
years before this rough cut gem started it's break in your barn, ANYTHING is
possible.
If you
really want the real story, you are going to have to let the car itself tell
its own story, part by part, assembly by assembly, using date codes, casting
numbers and GM part numbers. You will need a 1958 GM Assembly Manual to
determine location of windshield washer reservoir & vacuum cannister,
washer tubing, tachometer drive, tach RPM Redline, engine block and a host
of other components to determine whether or not it could possibly be the
rare FI car you are hoping for.
I would
guess that this car was run hard, abused badly & put away wet long
before you two met. It likely needs EVERYTHING, and there is no cheap easy
solution here.
Sorry to
be a wet blanket but somebody had to say it. Might as well be me.
I
resurrected a 1960 ex drag race car from a barn 20 years ago.
I still
have it. I still love it.
Best of
luck with your dream car.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: To my knowledge no 57 intake
was used on a 58, even early production models. The intake shown is a
57. The correct casting for a 58 is 3746829. The valve covers
are 7 fin covers used on 58s, but not the 230HP. The emblem shown is
interesting - it looks like the FI plate used on the 65 model but that
emblem had a "fuel injection" script on it. What is your
engine and head casting numbers and car serial number? It appears you
have a car that has been kept alive using parts from several cars - if you
are pursuing an NCRS numbers matching car - get out your checkbook. If
however you just want to restore your car to a period correct car (correct
CI engine, paint color, interior, etc) it opens up a wide variety less
expensive options. I have a 58 that I am very proud of, I restored it
in 1980. It does not have a Duntov award, but it has been viewed and
blessed by Mr. Dontov personally (in 1984). The SACC Tech panel is the
best source for info I know. If I can be of any help, don't hesitate
to call. - John
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
The date code on the intake appears to be "G" so that
would be July of 57. It is possible that it could have been installed on
an early 58.
I am pretty sure the emblem is not something that would be installed on an
early Corvette, it looks similar to the 65 Corvette FI emblem.
Is your 58 an early car?
Verle
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry
Your intake is a 57. Note the casting date is c 12 57.....march
12 1957. 58 cast number is 3746829.
Your valve covers are 1959. Off set holes with high script
corvette. 58 is the same but with low script.
F I emblem bar appears to be from a 65 corvette.
Chip Werstein
**********
09/21/2020
I installed a Jim Meyer Racing IFS on my 60 and now they
are out of business and I need Upper and lower control arm bushings. I was
hoping someone in your club might have some info on these.
Signed, Desperate in WI
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Ned,
Corvette
Central in Sawyer, MI has been selling this C-1 suspension upgrade for several
years. I'd give them a call at 800-345-4122 and see if they can help you with
this.
Good luck,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC.
**********
09/20/2020
I own a 1959 that has speedometer and
tachometer cables that do not rotate smoothly. I lubed both cables by
rubbing dry graphite along their length, less the last inch or more. It
helped the speedometer until I sped to 55-60 mph, the speedo needle really
bounced and before I pulled to the side, the needle dropped and stopped
working. The tach needle also bounces periodically. I have
disconnected both and now have a project ahead of me to remove them and send
them for repair.
Searching speedometer on this Technical Help
page really helped. A nice company in Colorado made a 18” test cable I
used to spin the speedo. Under finger twisting speed, I heard the same
bearing squeal emitted when the speedometer needle dropped.
Now to the question: Under an age old
topic, does one dry lube or grease lube speedo/tachometer cables? The
gentleman who made my test cable said that graphite will inevitably work its
way to the end of the cable and get in the speedometer. I just did what
my father taught me and used graphite powder.
Eric
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Eric
I had the same issue. Tried repeatedly to lube and clean the cable.
There was no change.
A local speedometer shop inspected it and replaced the bearings and all was
good. There were no issues with the cable. Hopefully, the speedo
did not break the last time it was connected.
Joe
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Eric: Sorry that this response
is late. I have 12 cars and have had speedometer problems like you describe many
times. I normally am able to fix the problem myself. I will tell you
how I do it.
The speedometer and tachometer cables must be lubricated with a light weight
grease. Graphite is not a proper lubricant for speedometer cables.
Years ago, the AC division of General Motors sold ST-640 Speedometer Cable
Lubricant. It comes in a metal toothpaste type tube and is white and is
very soft. I recently asked a speedometer repair show what to use, and
they said to use a light weight general purpose grease. Use Lubriplate
grease if you can find it.
To lubricate it, pull the cable from the casing and inspect it for damage.
Then use your fingers to apply the grease to the cable as you push it back into
the casing.
Now for your other problem. The squealing is caused by the speedometer or
tachometer bearings being dry. In my experience, you can lubricate these
bearings yourself. Check the bearings for excess wear by turning the shaft
end with your fingers and check for up and down movement, indicating excess wear
that will require a rebuild. If there is no evidence of excess wear, drill
a small hole, around 1/16", in the top of the casing just at the end of the
threads where the cable nut threads on. There are two bronze bushings that
support the speedometer shaft, and this will put you at about the middle between
them. Inject a small amount of oil into this hole. I use a
hypodermic needle. Use 50 weight engine oil or 90 weight gear oil.
Originally, these bushings were greased, but it is hard to get grease into this
hole and to where the bushings are using this method. Rock the speedometer
back and forth to get the oil to the bearings. Spin the shaft with your fingers
to make sure it is free. When in operation, the cable spins at 1000 rpm at
60 mph, so good lubrication is a must. The tachometer cable spins at half
engine speed, because the distributor/generator adapter operates at half engine
speed. If you have a shop rebuild the tachometer, make sure that they
calibrate it to read twice shaft speed.
Whenever you hear the speedometer or tachometer make a squealing sound,
immediately pull over and disconnect the cable . This vibration can
greatly damage the inner workings of the speedometer in very short order.
It sounds like your speedometer has suffered internal damage and lubrication
will not help it. With the speedometer or tachometer, if you spin the
shaft in the correct direction with your fingers and the pointer does not move,
you will have to have the unit rebuilt. You can make a test adapter out of
a nail. Pound the end square with an hammer and use an electric drill to
spin the shaft at varying speeds to make sure that the pointer moves smoothly.
If not, you will have to have it rebuilt to fix this.
Corvette Central offers a rebuilding service. Mechanical speedometers and
tachometers with a cable have not been manufactured for many years.
Everything is electronic today,
and it is hard to find someone locally who has the parts and knowledge to
properly rebuild and calibrate your units.
Larry Pearson
**********
09/19/2020
Do you have any hints on replacing rear shocks on a 1962? I have a customer
with a very nice black/red 250HP/PG. The problem is very little access
to the top bolts. Fortunately, the left shock broke off at the top and removal
won’t be a problem. My thought for the right one is to remove the muffler
for access and use a zizz wheel to cut through the shock at the bottom rubber.
Tightening will also be a problem. There isn’t room for turning the nut with
a wrench. You could hold the nut from turning and turn the shock but it would
be hard to get it tight. Is it possible to get access to the top nut with a
hole through the body? What am I missing?
Thank you.
BTW, by father had a new Corvette in ’57 and traded it for a new one in
’59. I had a ’66 coupe I bought for $2100 in 1972 and put a 370HP 350 in
it. Had to sell it for $12K in 1984 when I started a family.
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Spencer
You need a copy of the AIM Section J Sheet 3. Look at View A on that
page.
In the folding top compartment behind the gas tank cover, there is an access
hole that allows a socket or wrench to be put on top of the shock.
Joe
Update: The access hole is correct for a 1957. Later C1s at
some point eliminated the access hole. One can still assemble the shock
from below by twisting it to tighten the bolt.
**********
I am hoping that you would have help/instructions for removing the horn
button on a 1962 Corvette.
-Charlie
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Charlie,
The horn button is retained inside a split spring steel stamping that also acts
as the horn contact by three equally spaced retainer detents under the button
face.
Insert a flat tool that won't scratch the steering wheel on both sides of
the button and pry up. It should pop off.
Good luck,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
09/08/2020
I just recently purchased a 3 speed transmission mount bracket from Corvette
Central. When I went to install it I discovered that the bolt holes in
the bracket were about 2 or possibly 2 1/8 inches on center, and my
transmission mount holes are 3 1/4 inches on center. I believe that is
the measurements of a 4 speed transmission mount bracket. My
transmission main case has a casting number of 3845122 and is dated G 9 56.
The side cover is 3731911. but the tail shaft housing is cast 3855710 and is
dated D 28 5. I assume that I have the wrong tail shaft housing, but
what do I have? Is it from a 1955 Corvette? Would I be able to use
a 4 speed transmission mount bracket, or should I try to find a 1956 tail
shaft housing?
Thanks,
Michael
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael
You have a few different items. The main case is a 56, but cast in
Tonawanda and was never used in a Corvette. The 3855710 tail was used
on 1965 Corvettes.
I do not know about that tail mounting arrangement. The correct 3
speed will mount to the C1 tailhousing. I am using a early 3 speed
shifter with a later C1 tailhousing. You should be able to acquire a
later C1 tailhousing. The 1956 3722946 tail may be pricey.
The
3 speed shifters mount to the transmission tail without a bracket. The
shifter is arranged with holes to match the tailhousing. Check the AIM
and you will see that.
The
bracket at the bottom of the transmission is different for a Muncie 318 3
speed and a BW T-10. The height is greater for a BW but the spacing is
the same. That bracket you purchased may be the plate that allows
using a Muncie M-20 with a C1 transmission crossmember. You would need
to describe if it is a flat plate with four holes in it.
**********
09/05/2020
Hello guys,
I have had a 58 Corvette for many years. When I bought the car it had an
aftermarket scissor jack and never really did anything with it. I have
recently found an original Jack correct for my car. The bad news is the jack
(the block thaty the screw goes into) is stripped. The screw is fine and I
think has Acme threads? Any idea how to repair or who might be able to help?
Thanks!
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Fred - I too have a 58 (great
choice) and an original scissor jack. Although my jack is in mint
condition - I would never use it. A scissor jack is a very dangerous tool.
If you need to raise your 58 for any service, use a hydraulic floor jack.
Use the scissor jack for show only.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Fred: I own a 60 Corvette that
I purchased from the original owner. It had the original jack and it had
probably been used only once and it had completely fallen apart. The
original jacks that came with these cars are dangerous to use and are
recommended for show judging only. Even the reproductions of this jack are
not recommended to jack up the car, only for NCRS judging. My 62 came with
a far superior jack of a different and better construction. The
aftermarket jack that your car came with is undoubtedly a much better and safer
jack to use for everyday driving. I question that the jack you have
is a correct original one because for the threads to strip, it would have been
used many times, and that is not possible with the original jacks.
If you are having your car NCRS judged, and if, indeed, your jack and jack
handle are correct looking and will pass a visual check, leave it the way it is.
NCRS judging does not check the jack operation, only the look. You
shouldn't be able to see that the internal threads are stripped by looking at
the jack.
Larry Pearson
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Fred,
Over the years of owning a C-1, I have learned that a good aftermarket scissor
jack is:
1) visually undisguisable from an original if you remove limiter
tubes over the Acme screw,
2) they are unsafe to use for anything more than car show browny
points
3) most guys carry an small aluminum floor jack for emergencies.
The Acme nut in your aftermarket would most likely fit the original screw but
tearing down both jacks to swap parts means reassembling the original and which
will still be unsafe to use.
My advise, use the modified aftermarket jack or put the original jack in the
spare tire well under the 6.70-15 bias ply spare for show or points. I've never
seen an owner asked to actually jack-up the car with it.
Keep a real floor jack for emergencies.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
09/02/2020
Does anyone sell the drain plugs below the fuel tank on a 1959 corvette
Thanks
From: John
Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The only openings I know
of under the tank are for ventilation - no plugs
**********
08/29/2020
Hello,
I am building a 327 340hp engine for my
’62 Corvette. It has a NOM 283 dressed to look like a 300hp 327 engine
currently and it originally a 300hp car.
I figured it would be nice to have a correct,
though not #s matching 327 340hp style engine in my car. Things are
progressing pretty well except for the issue with the oil pan. I sourced a
6qt trap door SHP oil pan w/windage tray; though now my engine builder is
stating it won’t clear the ’62 suspension/steering. Apparently, this
pan is actually from a 1963 engine and while it will be fine on the engine
itself, it won’t work in the car.
Are the ’62 and earlier SHP pans specific enough that a
’63 and up SHP pan will not fit (IE interfere with the car)? Do I need
to try and find a ’62 and earlier pan? It took me a long time just to
find this one. Thanks for any help on this!
Greg
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Greg
62 corvette pans are 5 guart. Engines hold 6 quarts....5 in pan, 1 in filter.
All 62 pans are the same 2 step configuration but the 340 and 360 pans have the
trap door. They were also used in eariler cars. Dont think 63 pan will work. 62
style pans are out there but getting difficult to find. You could use the 250,
300 hp pan as it looks the same from the outside. Most likely Dave Sokolowski in
Calif. Has a few of both styles. He advertises in the ncrs driveline.
Chip Werstein
From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
My GM Parts manual shows the 57-62 oil pan to be a five quart pan #3789629.
These pans are commonly referred to as three step pans (the third step
is required to clear the steering) For a visual see the following
link
ebay.com/i/362969807298?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
**********
08/25/2020
I have 61 Corvette with Dual
Point Distributor and Dual Quads I replaced the Dual Point with Pertronix
91183 Ignitor 11 in place of the Dual Points.
The car start right up. Idle great, but under a load it misfired and shut off
while driving it. Called Pertonix they total me that the mechanical advance is
Not working. Could this be possible. Has anyone install Pertronix in place of
dual points?
Thanks,
Glenn
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glen
You must use a pertronix coil with their ignition system. Also, the pertronix
requires 12 volts to trigger it so if you are using a ballast resister connect
the trigger wire to the 12 volt side.
Chip Werstein
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
From Pertronix installation instructions:
1. IMPORTANT: Read all instructions before starting
installation.
2. DO NOT USE WITH SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES.
3. The Ignitor II ignition can be used
in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 0.45 ohms or greater.
4. All external resistors must be removed to achieve optimum
performance from the Ignitor II ignition system.
5. The Ignitor II is compatible as a trigger for most
electronic boxes.
**********
08/24/2020
I have a 54 and when I open hood and pull up
I need assistance from another person to pull towards cockpit
It seems in a bind
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The hood hinge leaves a lot to be desired. It seems to bind just as you
lift the hood. Depending how worn the
hinges are. I know of no adjustment to fix this problem short of the
hood stops that fix where the hood rests.
From: Verle Randolph, Red River
Chapter VP: It may need the hood hinges adjusted.
Lubrication on the hinges helps.
Verle
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: The hood support can stick.
**********
08/19/2020
I have a 1960 that has been sitting for 42 years. I just started
cleaning and pulling numbers from under the hood items. I know the VIN
plate is suppose to be spot welded to the steering column, stamped and made from
stainless steal. While cleaning the dirt off the VIN plate I noticed it
was loose, I pried it up and discovered it was glued on. I took a magnet
to it and it does stick. Does a magnet stick to the VIN tags for this year
vet as true stainless does not.
Thanks
Steve
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Steve: I own a 1960 and
checked the VIN tag last
night with a magnet, and it is very much magnetic. The question is
why was your tag glued on? The car could be stolen, of course. Or it
could have been in a severe accident that required that the steering column be
replaced and the tag re-attached to the replacement column. If the engine
is the original one, the VIN number is stamped on the front pad of the block
along with with the manufacturing date code and horsepower/transmission code.
The VIN number is also stamped in large characters on the top of the frame under
the driver's seat. Reading this requires that the body be somehow lifted
above the frame in this area about one inch so you can read it. If the
frame is badly rusted, this number might not be readable at all.
If you are planning to have this car judged by NCRS, they very thoroughly
evaluate this tag and its attachment. They don't pry on it to verify that
it is spot welded on, and you can epoxy it on in such a way that it looks
correct. Also, they make portable spot welders and it might be possible to
have this tag properly spot welded in place. There is an industry that
reproduces this tag and apparently it is not exact and can be detected as a
replacement. NCRS will not judge the car if this tag is suspect. You
will be required to have your DMV verify the car's VIN, and this gets very
messy. If you plan to have NCRS judge your car with this re-attached tag,
do not discuss anything about this issue with the judges. Let them figure
it out.
Larry Pearson
**********
08/15/2020
Will a 3rd member out of a 1962 nova fit in a 1959 corvette?
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: I have never tried
it but I believe it is the same as Corvettes and tri five Chevies. Probably a
tall gear.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Wishbone: The 1955 through
1964 Chevrolet full size sedans use a differential assembly that will fit your
1959 Corvette. The 1962 Novas were much smaller than the full size sedans
and had a four and six cylinder engine option. In my opinion, it is highly
unlikely that the differential supplied with this car was the same size as that
used in the full sized sedans. The full size sedans came equipped with
everything from a larger six cylinder engine to a 409 W motor.
Larry Pearson
**********
08/14/2020
I started the job of installing new king pins in my older restoration,
1962. This is a project that I have put off for a while mostly because
of being too busy until now and the fear of messing up a restored car.
After just completing the front end rebuild on my 1956, i discovered that king
pins aren't such a hard job to replace. Within less than an hour I was
nearly ready to remove the first king pin in the '62 and then the project came
to a halt. I couldn't get the lock ping to move and be allowed to be
driven out. I tried hitting it by first placing a piece of hard wood
against it and hitting that with a good sized hammer and then with a brass
shaft and the hammer. It still won't move. I sprayed rust buster
on it and also sprayed some down from the top of the king pin and decided to
wait until morning an hope that it frees up. I'm guessing that I am not
the first one to encounter this problem. Is there any tricks that I
haven't thought of to free my lock pin?
Thank you,
From: Joe LeMay, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
The lock pin you are refering to is the pin driven through the spindle support
and secured with a ~5/16 nut?
You may have to hit the king pin up and down to try to loosen the lock pin.
I may have been overtightened when it was installed and is now stuck.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor: I agree, you
may have to drive the king pin up and/or down a little.
If penetrating fluids and such like don't work, try a strong solvent in case
someone used locktite. Not likely but who knows. I like B-12 carburetor
cleaner for this.
Might also try a?? C clamp. Tighten C clamp on the pin making sure the back
side is open so the pin can move. Get C clamp as tight as you can, then strike
the C clamp with a hammer.?? Grasping at straws here.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Sounds like you have a problem.
Were you able to remove the nut holding the pin in ? If so you
might try running a nut back on the pin (run it on several threads short of
seating). Use the nut as your impact surface - not the pin itself.
This way you won't risk mushrooming the pin. If penetrating oil
and a brass rod don't free it - the only other suggestion is heating the
steering knuckle to expand it. To do this you have to completely
disassemble the knuckle.
Thank you all for your help. I am able to easily remove the nut and
the lock washer and I have put the nut back on and have been hammering on it
by using a one inch piece of brass that is about six inches long. i
have used a C clamp and hammered on that as suggested. I was thinking
of heating around it and I have a question for Mr. Spencer. Why would
I have to remove remove the knuckle before I heat it? Is it because it
would have to get so hot that it would burn the grease seals on the control
arm shafts?
Thank you,
Michael
Access and mass. I know its a pain to remove the knuckle from the
brake assembly and A-frames, but it allows you to work on the knuckle on
your workbench - not the car. This gives you very good access and it
removes the part from the car (I'm very nervous with a torch around my
fiberglass cars). Additionally - it removes any additional mass which
draws heat. All you want to heat is the
knuckle
around the lock pin.
**********
08/06/2020
Before I install my harmonic balancer I wanter to check to make sure that I
have the correct one. My balancer has a casting number of 37680 on the
inside of the center section and although it has been painted black, I would
assume that the balancer on a 265 cubic inch engine should be painted the red
engine color. So do I have the correct balancer and am I correct in
thinking that it should be painted red? It is a stock 1956, 265 cubic inch.
Thank you for your help.
>
> Michael
From: Verle Randolph, Red River
Chapter VP: I looked up that casting number and it does
not look like what I think a 56 265 balancer should look like.
Here is a very ugly one:
From: Joe LeMay, SoCal
Chapter Advisor: The photo below is similar to the typical factory
balancer but there are some differences. The typical one has a 3/8"
pulley riveted to the balancer and two threaded holes to remove the balancer
from the motor. See the attachment. There is no separate part number
stamped on the riveted pulley. This pulley is also used on 1957 corvettes
except the 270 and 283 HP motors. 270 uses a riveted 1/2" pulley with
the same balancer configuration (rare to find). 283 HP uses a 1/2"
pulley bolted to the balancer in three places. It would look like the
photo below. All balancers with riveted pulleys are painted engine color.
Balancer with bolted pulley is engine color. The bolted pulley is black.
Thank you for the information that you supplied regarding the 1956 harmonic
balancer. I am sorry that I didn't include the horsepower of my engine,
but it sounds like in 1956 all horsepower engines used the same balancer with
a 3/8 inch pulley that was riveted on. Is that correct? Now I know
that the one I have is incorrect and possibly aftermarket. Do you have
any suggestions where I could purchase the correct one, and if I find one
without the pulley, could I get a new pulley riveted back on?
It has been many years since I have worked on this 1956 project and when I
would order new parts or buy used ones back then, I would put them away until
the day came that I needed them. It seems that I had put away two new
clutch forks. One has a oblong hole at the end where the linkage
attaches and the other one is slotted and they are both bent differently.
The assembly manual shows the one with the oblong hole in its diagram, but
parts catalogs show the one with the slot in it as being the one for
1955-1962. Can you please help me out with this question? I would
send pictures if I knew that there was a way to do that.
Thank you,
Michael
From: Joe LeMay, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Damper Doctors and Damper Dudes are two who would have one and do rebuilds.
They had what I was looking for. You can try the internet or ebay but that
one may require rebuilding, or the pulley may be bent.
There are two different clutch forks and bellcrank to fork pushrods.
1956 clutch linkage rod had a spherical end and was secured with a spring
clip to the clutch fork. There would be
a dish in the fork to accomodate the rod. 1957 clutch linkage rod had
a flattened end and was secured with a clevis pin to the clutch fork.
The fork has a rectangular slot. The 1957 configuration is shown in
the Paragon catalog. The 1956 parts are rare. The typical
adjustment swivel that attaches to the bellcrank is also rare. It will
be long enough to accommodate a coil spring that is shown in the assembly
manual. The current repros are for 1958 and up and are shorter.
They do not use the spring.
**********
08/03/2020
1958 Corvette. Parking brake issues, parked with parking brake
off since 1977.
Handle, shaft will not rotate. The shaft will not pull outward.
Is frozen … The pin that sets towards the fire wall is loose.
-Wayne
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: If the handle will not rotate,
then the shaft must be frozen in the conduit. Your only recourse is to
get penetrating oil in there to free it. The conduit is open on top -
you can use a can of penetrating oil to apply the oil directly to the shaft
instead of spraying it. Otherwise you need to remove the brake shaft
assembly and soak it in kerosene.
**********
07/30/2020
> I would like to purchase a 1956 trunk lid from someone
> Do you know anyone?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: Rob,
This should be real easy.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/body-frame/fiberglass-rear/56-60-trunk-lid-press-moulded-141093?returnurl=%2fc1-53-62%2fbody-frame%2ffiberglass-rear%2f%3fcount%3d27'
Ecklers, Chicago Corvette, Mid-America, et al sell the same parts.
If you're looking for an original, Paragon has one. https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-349779-trunk-lid.aspx
Otherwise, hit the internet and remember- Condition, Condition, Condition. The
better it is, the more it costs.
Good luck.
Bill
**********
I have a 1957 corvette I am reassembling and I am trying to figure out
correct routing of headlamp and parking lamp harness routing and location
of clip for lamp to harness connector if you have any photos or documents.
From:
John Spencer, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Here is the routing for a 58 -
don't have an illustration for a 57 but they are basically the same I
believe.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Bill: You need to purchase a
copy of the 1957 Corvette Assemble Instruction Manual (AIM), Reprints are
available from the major Corvette parts suppliers. These manuals were used
by the Corvette assembly plant to direct it on how to build the car.
You want Section 12, page 12. This page shows how the chassis wiring
harnesses were routed in the engine compartment of the car. Other pages
show how the rear of the car wiring was routed, and how the under dash wiring
was routed.
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: The routing
shown for the 58 is the same for a 57. Headlight wiring clips are very
high, above the radiator on the grill side of the radiator support. Some
may be broken from bending too many times.
Verle
**********
07/28/2020
I am currently putting all the chrome etc. on my freshly painted 1960
corvette. I have new emblem kits for both the front and back. My
question is: where do you place the foam gasket; between the bezel and body or
between the body and the actual emblem or between the emblem and the backing
plate? Thanks in advance.
Rewards,
Book
From: John Spencer,
Red River Chapter Advisor:
Front Emblem assembly order (from outside surface);
Bezel-Body-Foam Gasket-Emblem-Backing Plate. See Illustration
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Book: The chrome bezel goes on
the outside surface. On the inside surface, the order is: Gasket,
emblem, and backing plate. There are special self threading winged nuts to
hold everything together. Pre-thread the special winged nuts on the three
studs on the bezel to make it easier to install them with the bezel in place.
Corvette Central sells a special tool to tighten these nuts, which you really
need. They do make a PAL self threading nut with a hex head which is a lot
easier to use, but it will not pass NCRS judging.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/23/2020
I have a customers 1962 C1 with a torn up clutch cross shaft bushing.I
have to question the direction the bushing is installed and wether it
has the correct shouldered bolt in place.He keeps tearing the rubber out
of the bushing.Any help,picture or otherwise is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance Don
From: John Spencer,
Red River Chapter Advisor: See illustration. Shoulder bolt is
Paragon Corvette P/N 628K ($10.00).
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Don: The bushing assembly
consists of an outer sleeve that is pressed into the cross shaft with the
shoulder directed toward the engine, a rubber insulator, and an inner bushing.
In my experience with my two 62's, the rubber part rapidly disintegrates leaving
the inner bushing in direct contact with the outer metal sleeve. This is
particularly the case if you are using a high performance Borg & Beck
pressure plate which takes lots of pedal pressure to activate. I have
found that it works fine without the rubber part. It makes me wonder if
the original factory part used a more durable rubber compound than the service
replacement units.
If this bothers you, I strongly suggest that you purchase a replacement bushing
kit from Danchuck, the 55-57 Chevy parts supplier. Go online to see it.
Their catalog number is #345, and it currently costs $16.95. The heart of
their bushing kit is two identical bushings custom made of Delrin plastic.
These do not press into the cross shaft, they install with one on each side of
the cross shaft hole in place of the original pressed in outer sleeve.
Nothing is pressed in, so it is easy to service if it wears out. You must
remove the old outer sleeve to make room for this kit. I have been using
one of these kits for about 25 years in my "beater" 62 and have had no
problems with it at all. Of course it will not pass NCRS judging.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/22/2020
Hi!
Would like to know the exact measurements for placement of the front badge on my
1960.
Bought the car with 61 emblems.
VIN says it is a 1960.
Getting painted and the painter needs to know the placement to make the hole for
the correct emblem.
Thanks! Any help is appreciated.
Cindy
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
Although only one year apart, there are a number of significant differences
between a '60 and '61 Corvette. If it's a '60, and the front end is
original, the holes to accommodate the '58 - '60 Corvette emblem should be
there, even if it has since been filled. Unless the front clip has been
replaced a good body shop should be able to detect the hole's location.
Other than the front end emblem, are there any other signs the body differs
from a 1960 Corvette? IE: grill vs. "teeth" in the grill
opening or "ducktail" rear end vs. curved style?
Before you start drilling a large hole in your car, let's try to make sure it
is a '60. As you are probably aware, production of 1961 Corvettes began
in September of 1960. Do you mind sharing your VIN #? (Your VIN
will not be published.)
(continued)
That make sense as the front end clips from '58 thru '62 were interchangeable
and they were probably more concerned with getting it back on the road, than
about making it original.
Because of it's early accident and repair you have a unique car (with the
'62 emblems). It's your decision on whether you want the car to look
original or to reflect it's unique history, as to if you replace the emblem
with that of a '60. Obviously,
if you plan to have the car judged, original is the way to go.
However, an argument for keeping it as is would be... it would be a
conversation piece at any show where people know their C1s.
A '60 as early as yours, should have some interesting part combinations as
they used up left over stock from '59 on the early '60s. Would be
interesting to see if the body shop used those parts or the hardware from
the '62 donor clip...
Unfortunately, we are in NC and my '60 and reference materials are in
FL. If no one has answered your question by the time I return to
FL, after August
1st, I'll research the measurements for you.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Cindy,
I 100 %
agree with Brad's advise that you determine exactly what year your car is
before you start modifying anything. The differences between a 1960 and a
1961 should be instantly obvious to most Corvette folks.
The rear
of the body from doors back are uniquely different.
Rear
bumpers & tail lights are uniquely different.
Interior
upholstery is uniquely different.
The seats
are different design.
1960 has removable seat cushion & back with wide vertical pleats.
1961 has fixed cushions and narrow vertical pleats.
So please
use the internet to review pictures of both before proceeding.
Years
ago, I bought a 1962 Corvette basket case that had been poorly repaired with
a 1958-60 front upper panel.
Bad
things have happened to 60 year old cars.
(continued) Cindy,
Front & rear emblems are the same on a 1960. Unless the rear emblem is
perfect, you might want to buy 2 complete emblem assemblies to avoid
comments after you get done that they are "different".
Attached picture is my early 1960 during restoration.
The emblem is centered on the front panel as shown.
The hole diameter is about 1/8 inch diameter larger than the I.D. of the
emblem outer trim ring.
Use the emblem gasket as a guide for locating the hole.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Cindy: I know of no source
that gives the measurements of exactly where the large round hole goes to
accommodate the 1960 emblem. The problem is that all the front fiberglass
edges are rounded and there are no sharp edges to make measurements from. The
hole in the trunk lid is exactly the same size and shape as the nose emblem, and
they both use the exact same emblem. The hole is exactly centered between
the headlights, and all you need is the vertical measurement I own a 1958
original front clip, and a complete 1960 car, and I will make the
measurements tonight
and email them to you tomorrow.
Your painter can paint the car the way it is and add the round emblem hole later
if time is a problem. Be sure to fill in all the 1962 emblem holes before
painting the car, because none of them are used for the 1960.
Larry Pearson
*********
07/19/2020
I recently changed the engine oil and filter on my 1961 Corvette and have
noticed a slight oil leakage at the oil filter canister bolt head.
Do you know of a way to eliminate this leakage? I don’t remember leakage
at this location prior to the oil change. I am fairly certain I have
sufficient torque on the bolt and have observed no oil leaking at the cannister
to engine interface. The canister assembly is fairly new (Purchased from
Paragon in 2004). The original canister bolt to canister was not
integral (Bolt was not attached to the cannister). So I replaced it with
the Paragon canister assembly.
> Thank you,
> Mike
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Mike,
The original style oil filter cannister can be a leakers delight if not
installed properly. The rubber square x-section sealing ring at the top has to
be seated flat without twisting or humps plus the cannister needs to be
installed straight & perpendicular to the engine block sealing surface. The
original detachable cannister bolt should have had a seal under the bolt head
flange to keep the oil from leaking out the bottom.
Your integral bolt cannister should have either a seal under the bolt flange or
sealing grooves formed on the underside of the bolt flange.
Paragon has very helpful customer service people. Since you are local, why not
give them a call at 800-882-4688. I'm sure they would be happy to help you.
Regards,
Bill Huffman, pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
solidaxlecorvettemi.com
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Mike: The original bolt was
held in place with the canister shell with a spring on the inside of the
canister. The bolt did not come out separately from the canister, they are
held together. If the leak is at the bolt head interface with the canister
shell, see if you can work some Teflon pipe thread sealer tape between the bolt
head and the canister shell. This very likely will stop the leak.
On the other end, whenever I change the filter cartridge, I remove the aluminum
"O" ring retainer to remove the old O-ring at the top end. It is
difficult to remove the old rubber O-ring without doing this.
To make the oil filter change a lot less messy, I drilled a hole in the bottom
of the canister and threaded it for a 1/8 pipe plug. There is enough metal
thickness here for the plug to seal and not leak. I use Teflon tape on the
plug threads and never have had a leak. This allows me to completely drain
the old oil out of the canister so when I remove it there is no hot oil running
down my arm and onto my driveway. I only change the filter element every
other time I change the oil, and this allows me to easily drain the old oil out
of the canister. Of course this will fail in NCRS judging if the judges
see it.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/17/2020
Hello,
Need to replace m clutch cross shaft bushing on my '61. I may also have
to remove the clutch cross shaft to check the ball studs or remove the bushing
if it doesn't come out readily. Can I get instructions on both. ST-12 was
unclear in there instructions.
Thanks Larry
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: To remove the cross shaft
requires releasing the tension on the cross shaft helper spring. I have
always placed a pair of large vicegrip pliers (or
medium pipe wrench) on the cross shaft itself, released the clutch
push rod from the cross shaft and allowed the cross shaft to rotate and relax
the spring. Once the spring is removed - disassemble of the cross shaft is
an easy task. take caution here - the cross shaft spring is stout - have a
good grip on the cross shaft with your pliers - make sure you can rotate and
hold the shaft with the pliers before removing the clutch push rod.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Larry: I assume you have a completely stock system with the big assist
spring and the remains of the original bushing, which is pressed into the top
end of the cross shaft. If this is the case, you will have to remove the
cross shaft to remove and replace the bushing. Your car's clutch pedal
system should be exactly like pictured in figure 7, page 6R-4 in ST-12.
If your car is using a diaphragm type pressure plate (not original), the
heavy assist spring is gone, because it is not needed.
The procedure on page 6R-9 is correct for removing the cross shaft. Once
the cross shaft is removed, the bushing outer sleeve must be pressed out of
the cross shaft. I use a socket of the proper size on both sides to
press the sleeve out in a vice. The bushing is composed of three pieces:
the outer sleeve, a rubber insulator, and an inner bushing. The rubber
part disintegrates with age, and that is probably what you are facing.
Everything will work fine without the rubber. Press the service
replacement bushing into the cross shaft using a socket slightly larger that
the one you used to to remove the sleeve. Lubricate both ball pivots
with lots of chassis grease before reinstalling the cross shaft.
Unfortunately there is no grease fitting on the C-1 cross shaft. This
came in 1963. Use the cross shaft installation procedure in ST-12 to
reinstall it.
In my experience, the rubber insulation rapidly disintegrates, and back to
square one. Danchuck sells a two piece bushing made of Delrin that
replaces the original rubber insulated bushing. Their catalog number is
#345. I am using one of these in my 62, and it is completely trouble
free. It won't pass NCRS judging, however.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I wrote a short article on how to fabricate a press out of a bolt and sockets.
It is in September
2019 Solid SCOOP. (Does that get distributed?)
The hardest part is compressing the gorilla spring. Remove the bellcrank
to clutch fork pushrod fitting. Use a pipe wrench on the bellcrank tube,
or a large open end wrench on the bellcrank arm to relieve the pressure the
spring creates on the bushing bolt, remove the bolt, and release the spring
pressure.
If you need the article, I can send something.
Joe
**********
07/08/2020
It seems like everyone is having questions regarding their 1962 at this time.
I have had mine now for 45 years and I have just changed my front wheel
bearings to roller bearing that i purchased from Zip. My problem is that
even though I pushed the inner races into the hub to the shoulder, I can't
seem to keep the inner bearing seal in place easily while I slide the hub onto
the spindle. If it isn't slid on smoothly the bearing seal comes off and
it can be floating in there and not allowing you to adjust the wheel bearing
properly or even to know that it hasn't stayed in place. Has anyone else
ever had this problem, or does anyone have a solution to this problem?
Thank you,
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River VP:
Compare the new seal to the old seal, are the dimensions the same?
I had a similar problem some years ago on a different car, the seal was
"similar" but just enough difference it would not stay in place.
I bought from my normal parts store, they knew me so they worked with me to
find out what the problem was. Turned out the new seal was actually made for a
completely different car. It was very similar but did not work. We looked at
several different boxes until we found the correct seals.
Verle
**********
07/07/2020
VIN number check. We have a 61 vette left to us, no title, no tag on steering
column. I understand there might be a stamp on the frame under the drivers
seat. Is there a way to check this without removing the body or cutting hole
in the floor. Thanks for any input on this matter.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: My 58 has the VIN stamped on the
frame. It is located under the driver's seat area on the top of the frame.
Depending on how much space you have between the frame and underbody, you
can see it with a light and mirror.
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: I checked my VIN stamp on a 1957.
It is located at midlength of the door. You will need to loosen all the
body bolts (12), and remove the five- left side nuts. Put a 18" piece
of 2X4 on the floor between the frame and rocker panel. Jack up the body
about 1 1/2 inches. Clean the top of the frame in that area and use a
mirror taped to the floor under the frame rail. With the correct lighting,
you should be able to take photos.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Does the car have the original engine? If so the last 5 digits of
the vin will be stamped on the pad along with the engine assembly date.
However, with the tag missing it may have been a theft recovery and the original
engine may be long gone.
Chip Werstein .
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
In addition to trying to get a photograph, which will be a mirror image, not
a positive, I suggest that a pencil rubbing be attempted.
Larry Pearson
From: Verle Randolph, Red River
Chapter VP:
I was able to read my frame stamp by inserting a wood wedge to lift the floor
board a little. Used sand paper to clean the frame, wiped it off and could
read VIN with mirror and light. Might help to unbolt the driver seat from
floor to make it a little more flexible.
Verle
From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC
Secretary:
I had the same problem on my '54. In CA they have to verify the
"original" VIN # before the issue plates. Joe is right, the
VIN # is stamped on the top of the frame just below the mid of the drivers
seat. It is about 1" clearance between the frame and the body fiberglass.
I did not raise the body and inserted my finger and found the stamping. I
sanded the # and put chalk dust on the # and flat wiped it clean with a cloth.
Then as Joe said, I took a dental mirror and a flashlight to explore. I was
able to read the # and I got an "adda- boy" from the inspector at
the CHP!
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
I have owned my '62 for over 50 years. The top is rarely used. I
would like to know what I can lubricate the bows with that won't stain the soft
top.
Thank you ,
Bud
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Bud,
WD-40 brand
makes a spray White Lithium grease that has a 6 inch application nozzle
that I used to lube the rotating joints in my soft top frame.
Use gentle
pressure on the release button, put a rag behind the frame to catch the
overflow and wipe off the excess grease.
Don't
overdo it and you shouldn't have an issue with the grease staining the top.
Remember, it's easier to add more grease periodically that deal with the
collateral damage of using too much.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bud: The absolutely critical point needing lubrication is the pivot
point over the center of the side windows. Without lubrication, this
joint will seize up and bend or break in two the section that goes to the
front header when the top is raised. I do not recommend any spray grease
because it is very hard to get grease to work its way into the joints. I
use 30 weight engine oil in a 20 cc hypodermic. This arrangement allows
you to exactly pinpoint where you are applying the oil. Thirty weight
oil is thin enough that it will easily penetrate all the joints without
getting on the top fabric.
Larry Pearson
**********
7/01/2020
My 62 had the typical gasoline smell. Since
it’s almost 60 years old, I decided to replace the gas tank. I checked
for leaks in the new tank by filling it with water. No leaks. Then
I looked at Joe Calcagno’s website (RareCorvettes.com).
One of the things he does is to take out the filler tube, put the cap
on, turn it upside down and fill it with water. Good way to find leaks.
Luckily, I had 3 gas caps to try. One vented and two unvented.
Here is what I found.
1. New gas filler tubes can be defective.
I sent one back and got another - still bad. They leaked at the joint
between the tube body and the fitting on the end. The new ones weren’t
seal welded, only tack welded. Totally unacceptable. After
going through two of them, I decided to use JB Weld all around the joint on
the outside of one of the new the filler tubes. It worked! Second
time I’ve used JB Weld to fix something (last time it was the weld on the
small aluminum fitting on the bottom of the expansion tank). Works
great. I love that stuff.
2. Most gas caps leak. I used the one
that leaked the least. It was an unvented one. I then JB Welded the
rivet connection on the inside of the gas cap. The rivet holds the
handle on but it is a mechanical connection that gas can leak through. To
finally stop all leaking, I made another rubber gasket to go over the existing
gasket on the inside of the gas cap. (I just found this out after
installing everything and still smelling gas. Even a tiny leak at the
gas cap really smells). The gas cap really fits tight now.
Did some right turn 360’s with a full tank of gas. No leaks. No
smells. BTW, I’ve had an old inner tube for years that I’ve used to
make custom gaskets. Very handy.
3. Installing the fuel sending unit is tricky.
If you don’t do it right, it leaks too. I made the mistake of over
tightening the screws holding the unit on the tank. The gaskets deformed
and leaked. I also made a mistake by installing the ground wire on one
of the screws, the way you’re supposed to. If you install the ground
wire terminal on the screw, you would need an extra gasket. The steel on
steel connection between the terminal and the tank, or between the terminal
and the screw head, leaks. Joe Calcagno recommends soldering the ground
wire to the top of the sending unit, instead. I didn’t have any luck
doing this so I cut off the terminal, stripped the end of the wire and wrapped
the bare wires around the metal fuel tube on the unit. Then I used a
hose clamp to hold it in place.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Charles. I got my first 62 in 1966, and currently have two 62's and one
60. No fumes in any on them. The proper and easy fix is to
completely seal the gas tank cover. There are three large holes in the
fiberglass area under the gas tank area. The area under the gas tank is
a high pressure area when the car is driven and any fumes from a leaky sender
gasket, a broken vent line hose, or the hose connecting the filler tube to the
gas tank will get into the car if the gas tank cover isn't completely
sealed. Use 3M Strip Caulk to seal the edges of the tank cover
perimeter to the car body. Strip Caulk is a black clay-like material
that remains pliable to allow easy removal of the gas tank cover if needed.
Strip Caulk is available in most automotive paint stores.
Gasoline leaks in the gas filler area, as well as rain water, drain directly
under the car via a rubber hose that connects to a fiberglass nipple in the
gas tank area under the drain hole to a hole in the gas tank area floor
directly under the drain hole.. If this hose is missing or broken, then
fumes from the gasoline filler area will end up in the gas tank area and into
the passenger area if the gas tank cover is not completely sealed, as
described above.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/24/20
Hello. We just recently purchased a 1960 with the 4-speed. The
speedometer does not work. The cable turns at the speedometer, but only in
reverse. I haven't looked at the driven gear yet, but was just wondering
if anyone else has seen this issue.
Thanks,
Neil
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
T-10 and early M-20, 21 use a steel drive gear and plastic driven gear.
The driven gear can wear and the teeth are contacting (marginally) in reverse,
and the contact in forward is so little the speedo needle does not move.
Try replacing the driven gear with one that is the same diameter.
If that does not work- The other issue is a mismatch with the drive gear.
There are two drive gear diameters and two driven gear diameters. See
the March
2020 Solid Scoop for my article on speedo gears.
**********
06/14/2020
I would like to know the correct torque specifications for the flywheel and
pressure plate bolts on a 265 cu in engine. Also is locktite recommended
on these bolts?
Thanks,
Mike
From: Joe Lemay, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
The specs I use are 60 for the flywheel and 35 for the pressure plate.
Use medium threadlocker. Do not use permanent.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Flywheel torque = 65 ft lb, clutch pressure plate = 35 ft lb. (source
- GM Chassis Service Manual)
Locktite not recommended
**********
06/13/2020
I just put a new clutch pressure plate and flywheel in my 62 Vette. I have
the transmission about 1 inch from being up to the bell housing and it is hung
up. Any help?
