Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette Club

*Note:  It has come to my attention that Chip Werstein has passed away.  When we created this page to help
anyone who has a tech question regarding a solid axle Corvette, Chip was right there from the beginning.  His answers helped
many, many people, whether they were club members or not.  Chip, you will be missed!

To submit a technical question regarding a 1953 to 1962 Corvette, simply email
sacctech@solidaxle.org

*Note: If you are using an Apple iPhone, you will have to hold down on the blue letters. Then a box comes up and you 
will need to select "New Mail Message".  You should be fine then, your email question will go to it's intended mailbox.

*In the subject box you need to put "sacctech/ (your SACC
membership number)".  Example: sacctech/1234
If you are not a member, your question will not be excluded, however, it won't get priority.

Disclaimer:
Our officers enjoy answering questions about your Corvette. Please keep in mind before asking questions that we are not qualified or certified to diagnose problems you may be experiencing with your Corvette. It is recommended that an A.S.E. (Automotive Service Excellence) certified automotive technician diagnose the vehicle for you. This way you get an accurate diagnoses on the problem and an understanding of the parts necessary to remedy the problem.  The experts render opinions.  Remember, the Solid Axle Corvette Club does not endorse any supplier, manufacturer, or place of repair.

Keep in mind that members enjoy a wealth of information via the SACC quarterly magazine, On Solid Ground.  Here are some of the topics contained in the Spring, 2008 issue:

-Insulate Your Solid Axle

-1956 Goodyear Corvette

-Harmonic Balancer Re-Install

-Six Cylinder Corner

-Will We Need NOS Engine Oil for out Old Cars?

-The Willet Run Garage

-The Marketplace - Member Classified

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09/15/2023

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

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09/12/2023

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

My first thought is a vacuum leak.

Verle

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Dean:  You need to consult the Corvette Servicing Guide, Chevrolet publication ST-12 to help you with this problem.  ST-12 is the only official Chevrolet shop manual for the C-1 Corvettes.  It is available as a reprint from all the major Corvette parts suppliers and is a "must have" for all C-1 Corvette owners.

There are  two separate idle speed adjusting screws on the AFB carburetor.  When the engine is cold and the Carburetor choke valve is closed or partially open, the Fast Idle Screw sets the idle speed.  This screw operates in conjunction with the fast idle cam, and is shown in Figure 94 on page 6M-37 in ST-12.  Once the engine is fully warmed up and the choke valve is completely open, the fast idle cam no longer controls the engine idle speed.  At this point, the engine idle speed is set with the Idle Speed Adjusting Screw, which is shown in Figure 92 on page 6M-36 of ST-12.   Adjusting this screw should solve your hot idle speed problem.

Once you get your hot idle speed properly adjusted, you need to adjust the two Idle Mixture Adjusting Screws, shown in Figure 92 on page 6M-36.  This is easily done on a hot engine by turning each screw clockwise, one at a time, until the engine starts to die.  Then turn the screw 3/4 of a turn counter clockwise.  If these screws are open too far, the engine idle mixture is too rich and may cause black smoke to issue from the exhaust pipes at idle, and a rough idle.  After making this adjustment, you may have to re-adjust the engine hot idle speed.

Larry Pearson

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09/06/2023

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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09/02/2023

I have an all original 1956 corvette that I purchased from the original owner 50 years ago. Yesterday after driving for about 10 miles I parked it for a couple of hours. When I got in to leave, no reverse in the power glide. Today upon further investigation it seems the transition is in drive all the time, even in park, neutral and in .reverse it seems to be in both. I never had a problem with the transmission before, this just came out of the blue. Checked shifter , linkage all seems well .shaft  that goes into transmission rotates. Rear Tran mount new 3 years ago and in good shape. I’m hoping I over looked something that can be easily fix. Any help would be appreciated as this is my favorite time of year to use it. Thank you in advance Tom …. 56 vet,265 duel quarts, 2 speed powerglide.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  If your shifter linkage is intact and operating good - the problem has to be in the transmission itself.  Sounds like you need to have a GOOD x-mission man inspect and probably rebuild the tranny.

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08/07/2023

Hello SACC,

While heading to a show this morning in our 1958 Corvette and twenty-five miles from home we developed a ticking noise and it especially got worse when under more power going up hills.  I had just gotten a tank of gas.  So I was thinking that it could be bad gas.  We decided to turn around and go back home.  At that point we noticed a little backfiring through the exhaust when decelerating.  I began to assume it was probably valve related and when I stopped to listen it sounded like the left bank.  We decided to limp back home slowly, but within ten miles it developed a knock.  Still the noise seemed like the top end, but we shut it off once we found a safe spot to stop, and called a flatbed.  I was thinking a bent or broken pushrod.  After getting it flat bedded safely back to our garage  I found that indeed it had an exhaust pushrod that had gotten by the rocker arm and was bent and almost broken off from hitting the under side of the rocker arm cover.

My question to the experts is what to do next.  Should I put in a new pushrod and adjust all of the valves?  Should I put all new pushrods in?  Should I look at the lifters, (i've heard of collapsed lifters), or if I have to change one should all 16 get changed?  I do not know the history of the engine, but it runs well and seems to be very clean in the tops of the heads and valve train.  We have run it only 8000 miles since 1997, without any issues.

Thank you for your help.

Michael

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  This is not an uncommon problem.  Lifter, pushrod, rockerarm failures can be simple or totally devastating.  A surefix is to pull the heads and have them gone through. This is costly however.  If you think the problem is just in the pushrod, first replace the lifters, pushrods and rocker arms.  After you have replaced these, you can check compression to assess the condition of the pistons and valves.  Assuming you are not pushing the 58 hard - the engine should give you miles of reliable service

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08/04/2023

 hi . i have a 1958 corvette ,it has been updated to a 350 zz1 with alternator system . my problem is it seems all or most of my original  gauges are out of sync .i am thinking it has to do with the possibility of the gauges being made to run off the generator ,possibly being of a certain calibration . could this be possible and or is there any fix so i can retain my original gauges giving me proper readings. any thoughts on this would be much appreciated . thanks  perry.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Larry Pearson




From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  The only gage that should affected by an alternator conversion is the ammeter (Battery). You might refer to later model wiring diagrams using alternators (ie: midyears). They do wire differently

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08/01/2023

I JUST joined your club and THANK YOU for the previous answer concerning the window problem. Next week I will be tackling this problem with my mentor Steve Clifford here in Orange County CA..

I have 4 new questions.  I would like to upgrade the radio and went to a stereo shop. They have NO experience with a 62 vet. They asked me to see if I could get some technical information for the install.  Question how does one go about replacing the radio with a direct NEW Bluetooth NO modification radio? What parts need to be removed to do this, do you have a diagram? I want to add kick panel speakers. How much room is there behind the kick panels? Depth, room to install as many speakers may be too deep. How many inches of space on the driver’s side and passengers’ side? OR is it better to buy the speakers that are part of the NEW kick panel that they make?

What needs to be removed to correctly remove the kick panels on both sides?  Is it preferred to use the old kick panels and drill threw them or use the new ones with the speakers already installed into the new kick panels?

Next question my gas gauge only reads 5/8 to ¾ full with the tank topped off. Is there a way to fix that? The gauge has been grounded I have been told. Do I have a bad gauge or is something defective?

I am thinking of adding a sniper 2 EFI system with a new fuel tank. The Sniper version 2 just came out, Do you have any other recommendations of brands etc. The engine is a 350 ZZ4 has anyone already done this and if so maybe you could point me in their direction to speak to etc. I am getting some pathetic gas milage around 9 miles per gallon for city use without any hot rodding so I think this would help significantly and the engine should start more easily, less exhaust smell, etc.

Thank YOU.

Ivar

Do I need to contact the local SAAC group or do you do that automatically with my membership.

Thanks.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

From:  Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Ivar,

Before you start swapping radios in your 1962, Corvette Central has an AM-FM Bluetooth radio that looks like your original Wonder Bar radio that you might want to look at.

61-62 AM FM Wonderbar Bluetooth Stereo Radio (ND) (corvettecentral.com).

 

When you get done, it will still look like the original Wonder Bar radio.

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

 

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07/26/2023

I hope you can help me learn the correct speedometer gear for my 61 Corvette.  At 70 mph on GPS, the speedometer on the dash is reading 60 mph.  I bought the car new off the showroom floor in November, 1960 and I am very familiar with everything that has been done to the car maintenancewise.  It has the original 4 speed transmission and the original factory rear end with positraction.  I believe the ratio is 3.70.  The tires are 205-75.

A few years ago, the gear at the back of the transmission broke.  The shop that was doing all my work had a gear that was laying around and that fit.  Not knowing any better, we paid no attention to the color of the broken gear or the number of teeth.  It was only many months later that I realized that the reading on the dashboard was incorrect.  I now want to replace the current gear with the correct one but I don't know which gear to buy.  The current gear is brown with 18 teeth.  In asking around I have been told three different things.  One said I need to add one tooth (Natural).  The next one said two teeth (Blue).  The third one said 6 teeth (Yellow).  

Can you tell me which color along with the correct number of teeth that I need to get?

Art

From: John Spencer, Ree River Chapter Advisor:  rt - One owner ...WOW !! ...  We don't see that very often.  I am assuming by the count of the gear you are trying to replace - you are talking about the DRIVEN gear.  Think of it this way - If you are wanting to increase the speed of your speedo - you want to increase the revolutions of the cable at a set speed of the transmission.  The DRIVE gear has a given number of teeth. So each revolution of the transmission engages that number of teeth on the DRIVEN gear.  To make the DRIVEN gear spin faster you have to decrease the number of teeth on it.  From that it is simply a ratio issue.  If you currently read 60mph and want to read 70mph, the speedo cable (GEAR) has to spin faster - thus the number of teeth needs to be less than what you have.  How much ?  Divide the gear teeth you have by the desired speed (70) and multiply that by the speed you currently read (60). (18 / 70) x 60 = 15.4.  If this takes you out of the range of gears available, you will have to change the drive gear also.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Art:  I am referring to my 1972 Corvette Parts & Accessories catalog (P&A 30B, effective September, 1971).  Here is what it says for 1956-1960 Corvettes, with the catalog part numbers:

With 3.70 axle:  3708699, 22 teeth, solid green nylon

With 4:11 axle:  3708143, 24 teeth, solid yellow nylon

The following are from a speedometer gear chart in this parts book, with no applications given.  I don't know if these will work in your car.

                          3860341, 18 teeth, Brown

                          3860342, 19 teeth, Natural

                          3987920, 20 teeth, Blue

                          3860344, 21 teeth, Red

                          3987921, 21 teeth, Red

                          3860345, 22 teeth, Green

                          3987922, 22 teeth, Silver

                          3860346, 23 teeth, Black

                          3960347, 24 teeth, Yellow

The two speedometer gears given for the 56-60 Corvettes assumes a 6.70x15 tire, which has an aspect ratio of about 80.  You are using tires with an aspect ratio of 75, so the 3.70 axle ratio gear would cause the speedometer to read slightly fast.  You would probably want a 23 tooth gear for the best accuracy for 75 aspect ratio tires.

My current Corvette Central catalog does not list speedometer gears.  You might give them a call now that you have an idea of how many teeth you need.

Larry Pearson

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07/22/2023

Hello,

I have a 62 300 HP.  I took the instrument cluster out of the car to fix the tach.  When I put the cluster back in and started to reattach the wires, I decided to use the wiring diagram, even though I took pictures and labelled the wires when I disconnected everything.  I noticed that the wiring diagram in ST-12, for the battery gauge, depicts all 4 red wires attached to the right terminal and the black wire attached to the left terminal.  However, when I disconnected everything, one red wire (14 ga it looks like) was on the left terminal with the black wire and the remaining 3 red wires were on the right terminal.  I decided to go with the wiring diagram.  When I reconnected the battery and checked everything out, I noticed that the battery shows that it’s being charged when the headlights are on and the engine not running.  I know that someone asked a similar question and the advice you gave was to put all 4 red wires on the left terminal and the black on the right.  In my case, the three 12ga wires won’t reach from the ignition switch to the left terminal.   I’m going to go back to the original wiring configuration since the battery gauge seemed to work OK that way, but I thought that it was strange that these wiring diagrams have mistakes in them.

Thanks,
Chuck

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Chuck,
Yes, the ammeter wiring on the ST-12 and the GM 1960 Corvette Assembly Manual has been incorrect for 63 years. I found out the same way you did.
That is exactly why we take before pictures.
I don't think GM will correct it after all this time.
I believe the NCRC Judging Manual does note this standards error.
Aren't C-1s a fun hobby?
Regards,
Bill Huffman Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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07/17/2023

I bought a 62 recently and will be joining your club soon.

My roll up windows are extremely hard to roll up and down. What is needed to fix that? I have been told that this is normal but I would like an experts advice. Would enjoy windows that are EASY to roll up or down if that is possible.

Thanks.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

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07/1/2023

You’re probably sick of answering tach questions but I’ll ask you another one anyway because I didn’t see a previous answer for this exact problem.  I have a 62, 300hp.  The tach started to stick really bad in different places and never went back to zero.  I took the tach out of the car, cleaned some black gunk out of it with brake cleaner and oiled the bearings with 3 in 1 oil.  I tested it on my work bench and it seemed to work just fine.  After I put it back in the car, there were problems right away.  The tach is dead at zero for about the first 10 minutes that I drive, then it comes to life and works fine.  It also makes a ticking noise.

Thanks,
Chuck

From: Larry Pearson, SoCAl Chapter Advisor: 

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06/19/2023

On a 1959 power glide Corvette when put in the park position it keeps popping out.

Is there a fix for this, the linkage looks to be ok.

Thank you

Steve

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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06/18/2023

I recently had a new soft top installed on my ’59.  The frames are original and were sandblasted and powder coated.  The top fabric, etc. was sourced from Al Knoch and the weatherstripping came from Corvette Central.  When folded down, the top is too thick for the lid to close. What can be done to alleviate this problem?  

Dave

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: This is a common problem. If you try to force the deck lid to close - you can break the lid “don’t force it”.  My only suggestion is to employ two restraining straps to pull the top down. These came standard on earlier models

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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06/16/2023

I have a 1960 doing a restomod. The rear end is housing is stock, stock axles, stock leaf springs. How wide of a rim can I install on the rear end without rubbing the inside? I have cragars for the fronts 15x4. I want cragars for the rears? Thanks. J

From: Michael Cappozio, Ohio Restorer:  J, with stock rear differential you can use a 7” wide rim with 4” backspacing before any real worries. An 8” rim is pushing it. 225 tires are going to be about the maximum width. A 235 can be used but with a good dip in the road, I.E. a bump, pothole, etc., you risk hitting the wheel lip and cracking the quarter panel at the bonding strip. 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Don Eckhart, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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06/14/2023

Hi, my name is Mark I have a 57 Corvette and would like to know what are the measurements of the front emblem between the hood and grill, and the cross flag emblems in the cove? The front end is aftermarket, so I do not have existing holes to check for repairs or evidence of holes on the inside.
Thank you for your expertise.

Mark

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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05/25/2023

Hello,

I am trying to locate a PROPER horn contact ring for my 57.

The repro ones the vendors have, do not work as they will not mate

with an OEM horn button (760805)).

The black spring steel retaining tabs are too short to accept the recessed

cavities cast into the horn ring.  I believe the segmented mounting ring on

the back of the horn button could be machined down enough to allow

the dimples to engage.   I don’t want to do this to my pristine OEM button.

Any information or education or part supplier would be greatly appreciated.

I have attached a pic of a proper ring above, (forgive the quality) the difference vis a vis the

new reproductions is obvious.   

Thank You!

Keith

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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05/22/2023

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  The antenna hole is approximately 4" in front of the tail light .  The hole dia is 11/16in.  See attached illustration. NOTE: The antenna mounts (bottom) on the inner wheel well - check to see if those mounting holes are still there.  Align the fender hole accordingly.

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05/11/2023

Hello,

Is there schematics, drawings, or videos that are available to aid in disassembly and reassemble a 1959 corvette hard top? Someone has done it that would be willing to talk to me and answer a couple of questions?

Larry

From: Bill Huffman,  Michigan Chapter President: 

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05/08/2023

Hello,

I have just installed a newly rebuilt differential in my 1958 Corvette and I can't find what the torque specifications are for the ten differential nuts and the axle flange bolts.  I am hoping the experts can help me out with these specifications.

Thank you,
Michael 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I did not find torque specs on the Differential cover bolts - but the spec on the axle companion flange is 150 - 190 Ft Lbs

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

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04/26/2023

I have a 1960 Corvette with solid lifters.  My research indicates the solid lifter cars came with a different pressure plate than those with hydraulic lifters.  Is the originally correct pressure plate available, and or is it still necessary ?

Also if I do use a diaphragm style pressure plate does the gorilla spring work the same?

Thanks,

Bob

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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04/10/2023

Hello,

I am trying to remove the axles in my 1958 Corvette to change my differential.  I have removed the rear brake hubs and brakes and the four nuts holding the retainer on the inside of the brake baking plate.  Using my slide hammer which has two fingers or jaws I am unable to pull the axle, even after I repeatedly sprayed the retainer and studs with a nut buster.  I'm looking for other suggestions on how to get them free after sixty-five years.

Thank you,
Michael

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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04/7/2023

From: Michael Cappozio, Ohio Designate:  Not sure if there’s a template, I may be wrong, but measurement is 5 3/8” up from the lower stainless trim and 5” back from wheel lip to the first hole. Measure your emblem to get distance for second hole as you emblems tend to be inconsistent in that measurement and you end up having to file hole bigger to fit. 

From: Bill Huffman Michigan Chapter President: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Center of flags is on a line 3/8 in below the center spear, 6 1/4 in from the edge of the cove.  See photo attached.

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03/14/2023

Hello,

I have a 62 hardtop question.  I would like to replace the hardtop header bar weatherstripping.  The rubber is cracked, hard and brittle.  I have removed some of the rubber.  It seems that GM glued the rubber on, in addition to using the P-Clips and rivets.  Is there an easy way to get this rubber off?   Do I need to remove the header bar from the roof to do this job or can I replace the weather stripping with the header bar on the roof?

Thanks,
Chuck

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I have simply refurbished C1 tops by refreshing their weatherstripping and I have totally disassembled them.  You do not need to remove the header bar to replace the header weatherstripping.  You have to simply drill out the rivets, then scrape the weatherstrip off (or use a glue release agent).  When replacing the weatherstripping - if you do not have push rivets - you can tap the holes and use shallow head machine screws.

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03/04/2023

Does anyone have a diagram showing the correct location for the Under Dash Support Rods. Needed for my 1961 C1.

I am completing a 7 year frame off and have no recollection of their placement.

Thank you,

Archie

From: Larry Pearon, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

SEE ATTACHED EXPLOSION OF DASH - FROM CORVETTE ASSEMBLY MANUAL

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02/28/2023

1960 corvette automatic trans lockout relay 904
Does any rebuild this relay.

I have power going in activating the point but not 12 volts going out to the starter.

Thanks

Steve 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

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01/13/2023

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:Get a copy of Chevrolet's service manual "ST-12" it is a must for anyone restoring an early Corvette.  Your body shims (8) are shown in Fig-103, Pg.1-49

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Verle Randolph, REd River Chapter VP: 

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01/29/2023

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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01/10/2023

I am  a new owner of a 1960 Corvette.  A very nice mostly numbers matching car.  The previous owner put masking tape on the wheel nubs to help keep the original hub caps on.  What is the correct way to make them go on tight?

Thanks Bob

From: Don Brittin, Central Regional Representative: 

Must have the 3 small retainer bumps in the inside of the outer part of the wheel.

The tape may not hurt, but is only useful to tighten the fit a bit, but should not be necessary.

Donald J Brittin







From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Reproduction 56-62 wheel covers have a reputation for being loose.  I have never experienced a factory original wheel cover from these years for being in the slightest bit loose.  If masking tape on the nubs works for you, use it.  However, there is another problem with loose wheel covers, and that is the wheel cover will move in such a way as to put pressure on the rubber valve stem, possibly damaging it or breaking it off.  If this happens, the only solution is to install metal valve stems.

You should keep your eye out for a set of original wheel covers.  You should be able to purchase a decent set for around $400.  Many C-1 Corvette owners are installing after market wheels that don't use wheel covers.  When you encounter one of these cars, you should ask the owner if he has the original wheel covers.  He will probably never use them and likely will be happy to sell them to you.  The 1959-62 wheel covers have the slots around the perimeter and are all the same.  The 56-58 Corvette wheel covers did not have slots around the perimeter.

Larry Pearson

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01/06/2023

I want to verify and take pics of my vin number, on the frame. I plan on cutting a hole in the floor. Are there measurements I could use? I've tried the mirror and light under the car, but to no avail. Jim  

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Michigan Chapter SACC






From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Jim:  I have three C 1's and have never needed to do this.  Do not cut a hole in the floor.  I have seen one frame with the body removed.  The characters are quite large, over 1/4 inch high, and were stamped into the frame top with such force that the frame metal deformed, creating a depression that will allow water and debris to collect, promoting rust where the stamping is.  If your frame has a lot of rust, the stamping may not be readable, no matter what.

The stamping is located under the driver's seat.  The fiberglass floor pan is somewhat flexible in this area.  I suggest that you make up two wedges out of wood and force them between the frame and the floor pan to give you more room to clean off the frame top and view the area with a mirror.  You may have to use a rust removing chemical based on phosphoric acid, like Navel Jelly, to clean the rust off for better viewing.  If you are successful with this, apply grease to the cleaned area to prevent future rusting.

Larry Pearson

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  What year is your car? What is the condition of the car (Body-interior intact or disassembled / engine intact or removed - steering column in place or removed).  The location of the VIN stamp is not exact, and there are braces running under the floorboard where the stamp is located.  I don't recommend cutting the floor.  You don't have to totally remove the body - you can remove all mounting bolts and lift the body on one side (driver's).

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01/06/2023

I have a 1960 Corvette that my Dad has given to me for restoration. Unfortunately the car was disassembled 20+ years ago and I was not involved in the disassembly. I have purchased several restoration books but haven’t seen the detail I’m looking for yet. What is the best reference books hopefully with pictures that show details of how parts are assembled. Thansk

Thanks,

Kris 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Kris:  You need to acquire a copy of the 1960 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM).  This manual is a collection of official engineering drawings prepared by Chevrolet Motor Division that details the complete assembly of the 1960 Corvette as was done at the Flint, Michigan Corvette plant.  It shows every part used to make the 1960 Corvette, including screws, bolts, nuts, washers, rivets, sealants, and adhesives.  These Assembly Manuals are available as reprints from all the major Corvette parts suppliers.  Also, you should obtain a copy of Corvette Servicing Guide,Chevrolet publication ST-12.  This is the only official Chevrolet shop manual for the 1953-62 Corvettes.  This will help you service your car once you get it assembled.

Larry Pearson

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Kris - I agree with Larry a 1960 assembly manual will be invaluable for your project as well as the service manual ST-12.  In addition, log into Paragon Corvette and request a copy of their parts catalog.  In addition to parts you may need their catalog contains numerous illustrations / assembly breakdowns that will help you assemble your Corvette Kit properly.  Good Luck

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01/02/23

Hi guys - my 1954 has been fully restored except for top. My quandary is what color because the existing top is black but the frame is tan. As I understand, 1954 tops were tan, but I also understand that supply issues resulted in some issues. How can I find out which color top I need? Attached is build plate. I’ve owned my Corvette since 1967, with frame off restoration ending in 2019 (just before pandemic). 

Thanks, mike

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  My 54 top is tan. There are a lot of variations undocumented - but - all the tech references I have spec the 54 top to be tan. Also - all reference docs report the tops to match the frames. Since your frame is tan I suspect your original top was tan. All this being said - unless you are going for NCRS judging - it’s your car - put the color top on you want.

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12/20/2022

My 1956 radiator core support had a large hole cut in the bottom of it in line with the radiator drain.  Thinking that it looked ugly, I had a welder remove the drain hole section from a later solid axle core support and weld it into my 1956 core support.  I'm thinking that when I did this several years ago, I should have done more research.  I am now thinking from what I see in the assembly manual that the 1956 core support may not have had a drain hole in the bottom.  Is that correct?  

Thank you for all of your help,

Michael

From: John Spencer, Red River Chaprter Advisor:  Attached is a photo of a core support - supposedly for 53 thru 57 - you can see a drain port where the radiator pitcock is located.  My 54 has the same feature - but i can't swear that a 56 does.  I will contact some 56 owners and get a more definitive answer.

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

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12/19/2022

Hello- My name is Kyle and I have a 61 fuelie corvette.  We just finished putting it back together and after it warms up and the choke comes off it idles too low and putters and sometimes stalls out.  Do you guys know of any ways to get the idle up after it warms up?  

Thanks!
Kyle

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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12/11/2022

I am refreshing the motor in my 1956 corvette vin #E56S002002. I saw where early 56 engines were painted red. My biuld date is April 17 so what color is my engine supposed to be? thank you, Samuel

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

12/10/2022

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

George,

Without the VIN number you have little or no hope in finding this automobile.

A 1953 Corvette VIN number would be E53F001 _ _ _.

The last three digits will be 001 thru 300.

The repair service sheet & the copy of the paid bill should both contain the VIN number of the vehicle you wrecked,

SACC Member John Hutchins maintained a 53-55 Corvette registry until about 2010 when it was taken over by Brett White.

53-55 info | Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums

NCRS maintains a Corvette C-1 Registry.  The Corvette C1 Registry

Hemmings Magazine also has a 53-55 Corvette registry.

Club Detail - 53-54-55 Corvette Registry - Hemmings Motor News

Good luck finding your needle in that haystack.

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

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12/08/2022

Hi, can someone help for support, I’m looking for.

56-62 corvette Center Floor Support - LEFT – Fiberglass 

56-62 corvette inner Fiberglass rocker panel - Press Molded – LEFT  

Thanks Fred

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

**********

1956 Soft top.   The weatherstrip is held / clamped into position with the retainers and screws which attach to the “t nuts” in the header bar. Perhaps there is another method of retaining this weatherstrip onto the header that I am not aware of? The terminologies on the pics certainly imply some type of fastening is used to retain the weatherstrip into position.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

Hi, wondering when top flight inspections are done to a 1962 corvette are frame vin #s checked to see if they match tag?

Dale

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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11/3/2022

I put a disc brake conversion on my 59 some 20 years ago.  Just recently I noticed that my right front caliper was dragging.  Since the flex lines were part of the kit, I replaced them with stainless steel flex lines.  This did not resolve the dragging issue, so now my question.
Current brakes conversions still use the same single piston caliper but none of the supply houses sell individual calipers nor do they indicate what type of GM caliper is used.  They appear to resemble the caliper of a 68 Camaro but I can’t find any literature that will definitely confirm this.  I am sure that since these brake conversions have been on the market so long someone must have had to replace parts for them.  So does any tech adviser know what brake caliper is used on the conversion kits?

Tnx
Paul

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Don Brittin, Central Regional Representative: 

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10/31/2022

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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10/30/2022

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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0916/2022

From:  Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Dash lights are powered from the headlight switch. Simply turning on the headlights will not power the dash lights unless the light switch knob is turned. The light switch has a rheostat to brighten / dim the dash lights as you turn (twist) the light switch knob. Twist the knob ( clockwise and counterclockwise) one direction will exhibit a click at the end of its travel - this is the full bright position. If you still have no dash lights - test the feed off the light switch for 12V. If no voltage pull your light switch and test contacts in the various switch positions

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09/15/2022

I opened up the fuel filter bowl to clean out the bowl and when I reinstalled it and started the engine the bowl fill completely to the top.  See picture.  This is not typical of how it was before.  In the past the fuel alway seemed to be below the bronze filter.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Eugene:  The GF 124 filter element you show is not made of bronze.  It is a brown molded paper assembly.  The more recent GF 124 is made of corrugated paper, much like an air filter element.  This design has more surface area to trap dirt, but does not look like the molded brown design.  If your car is being judged by NCRS, the brown element has the correct look.

The element you have is installed by pushing it on a tubular extension on the bottom of the top cover.  That way it will not fall into the glass bowl like you show in your picture.  Use the proper gasket size to seal the glass bowl to the top cover.

When operating, the fuel normally does not fill the bowl to the top.

Larry Pearson

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09/14/2022

Gents,
I have a 1959 C1, purchased  in Fla. and in the process of titling in NC….
“Oh what fun”
Can you tell me the welding Method used in fabricating a frame in 59?
I assume manual MIG or Stick?
Larry
(Member)

From:  Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

**********

09/09/2022

Hello
I had no headlights the other night. Dash lights are working  
Any suggestions. I am not a mechanic but have had he car 42 years
Thank you
Myles

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  The High Beam lights are not fused separately from the Low Beam.  The only thing between the two is the dimmer switch.  Power is delivered to the switch - which in the low beam position contacts the Low Beam Bulbs.  When switched to High Beam it simply makes additional contact to the High Beam bulbs (it does not break the contact to the low beams).  I think it would be very unlikely both low beam bulbs burn out at the same time - so I suspect the Dimmer Switch is not making contact with the Low Beams.  It is the 18 GA Tan wire on the dimmer switch.  If you have power at the switch - then you probably have a broken contact elsewhere.  The Tan wire goes directly to the Low Beam Bulb contact.

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08/17/2022

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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08/13/2022

1. The left front hard top pin must be forced into the windshield header.  This causes the rear left rear hardtop pin, that slides into the chrome receiver at the rear edge of the door to not fit.  The windshield has one rubber “spacer” at the rear of the frame.  Only one.  The car has not had its final frame mounting adjustments and It could be that the door opening on that side may need to be “spread open” a bit.  Any thoughts?
2. This car had a dealer installed radio.   The antenna hole was incorrect.  That was filleed during body work.  What is the correct location of the antenna hole?

Is there a measurement from the chrome edge of the tail light assembly?   Also was the hole centered on the tail light assembly front to back?

3. As a bit of information:  All 1957 Corvettes in western Washington were sold by GM through a Distributor.  TAD DAVIES CHEVROLET.  One could order a new Corvette from any Dealer, but Tad Davies go a cut.  For that privilege, Tad Davies had to carry 40 or so new Corvettes at all times.   As a result Tad Davies did not order the radios as factory equipped on all the new corvette inventory.  Hence, this one was dealer installed.

In those days, cars were available to be “adjusted” to the Buyer.  IE, hardtops were taken off, white walls removed.  Soft top color swaps, etc.

I am looking for two Tad Davies license plate frames!!

Hope to hear for some of you experts!

Bill

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

Hello.
I just found this site. I have a 62 corvette and would like to install side cove trim and spears like the 61. How do you access the back side of the front of the car?  Especially as it gets close to the door.

Also can you provide the spacing/placement of the spears?

Thank you,
Joe

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Joe:  The 1958-61 stainless steel side cove trim cannot be installed on a 1962, because the front fender and door fiberglass shapes were changed to a raised bead where the moldings went.  The 1958-61 panels were flat where the moldings were attached.  If you try to grind the raised beads off, you will completely penetrate the fiberglass and destroy the panels.  You might get by with grinding if you fill in the backside of the beads with fiberglass.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Larry is absolutely correct on the issue of the cove trim.  I do not advise doing it at all.

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07/10/2022

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter President:   Liz - Early C1s are tight.  I am 5'6" & I have a 54 that has a 4-speed.  I had to pull down the seat springs to give me enough room to move my legs to operate the clutch and brake.  Even with the shortened seat cushion I have to operate bow legged.  Some people choose to substitute the standard (17.2 in dia.) steering wheel for an aftermarket one that is only 15 in. dia.  I have attached the cockpit specs for a 56-57 for you to review - make sure you have all the room GM intended.  PS: beautiful car.

Here are the specs: 

Liz - Also...; regarding the gas pedal - check the linkage position and springs on the carbs. Are they set up for progressive throttle ??

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07/01/2022

                I would like to do engine upgrade on 61 Corvette 245HP w/ Dual quads. Would like to install

                Duntov 097 cam, but I don’t want to remove the heads. Please advise

                Thanks,

                Glenn

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  You don't have to remove the heads to stab a new cam.  You have to remove the valve covers - loosen the rockers to remove the push rods - remove the intake to reveal the lifter galley and pull the lifters.  Be sure you keep the push rods and lifters in order to replace them in the same locations they came from.  Check your lifters for wear before you re-use them on a new cam.  Use STP or a good engine rebuild lube when putting everything back in place.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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06/29/2022

Suggestions for Alignment setting?..
Thanks
Larry

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Larry,
The C-1 alignment article was published by Vette Magazine in their June 2002 edition. It was an article by Richard F Newton.
Michigan Chapter has a copy on our website, www.solidaxlecorvettemi.com.  
You may have to get our webmaster's permission on signing in, but that's easy.
The article is a pdf file. https://www.solidaxlecorvettemi.com/_files/ugd/0f0903_dd0ca5b654ea420bbc1d5ff55766753c.pdf
Same alignment works for both bias-ply and radials, but radials give a more stable ride.
I take a copy with me to the alignment shop so the tech will know how.
 
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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06/19/2022

Don





From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Don:  I am assuming that you are referring to the front left and right upper outer grille moldings.  These are chrome plated zinc metal die castings.  Corvette Central sells new replacement moldings.  Each of the four outer grille moldings have three 1/4-20 plated steel mounting studs threaded into them.  They attach to the fiberglass body from inside the fender with 7/16 inch steel hex nuts which thread onto the studs.  These mounting nuts are easily accessible without removing the front wheels if you turn the wheel in. 

It is very possible that your hex nuts are rusted onto the mounting studs, and trying to remove them will either break the mounting studs or cause them to unthread from the moldings.  If the studs break off close to the castings, you will have to drill them out, a very difficult procedure.  New replacement studs can be made from 1/4-20 bolts of an appropriate length by sawing the hex head off.  New 1/4-20 nuts are readily available from hardware stores.  Use 1/4 inch flat and lock washers under the mounting nuts.  Apply grease on the end of the studs before installing the nuts to prevent future rusting.

Larry Pearson

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06/14/2022

I purchased a restomod wonderbar radio for my 1959 corvette. I had a mobile tech come out and install it. Warranty on installation is over. It worked fine for awhile then just recently when I turn off the ignition to lock the radio stays on. The radio company did three bench tests and found nothing wrong with the radio. However, now it won’t turn off. I have to unplug it. Is it in the ignition switch wiring?

-David

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Probably an ignition switch problem.  The radio itself don't know whether you have the car running or not.  As long as it has power (12V) it will stay on, unless turned off manually with the Vol control knob.  The circuit should be a 14Ga. pink wire off the ign sw - to the fuse panel - 14 Ga Yellow, to the radio connector.  The Gas and Temp gauges are fed from the same Ign Sw terminal.  Does the gas gauge drop to 0 when you turn off the ignition?  If so the radio is wired to an incorrect source (12V).  If NOT the ignition switch is faulty.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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06/10/2022

Hi:

Anyone the San Fernando Valley, or L.A do fabulous minor body work and painting?

Joe

Also,  my Electronic Power Assist Steering system has aggravated the cars tendency to wander and reduced its ability to re-center from turns.  I’m told this might be remedied by adding caster to the upper A-arm pivot and installing a second shim.  Can you tell me if adding shims is a time consuming job or a simple one please?

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:  Joe,
The Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12 shows a clear picture of the 3733477 shims, which are the tapered aluminum spacer that sets caster on C-1's.
They are located between the front frame rail and the front suspension crossmember. After 60 years both shims could be deteriorated due to galvanic action if you live near the ocean.

To replace them, the front crossmember assembly must be unbolted from the frame (8 bolts on each rail) and dropped down far enough to clean & paint the affected areas and reassemble with new shims & fasteners. Be careful of the gas & brake lines if you do this.

However, I suspect that the accumulated backlash/looseness in the steering system may be your biggest issue.
You need to check for looseness in the steering gearbox, the two drag link bushings, third arm bearing, tie-rod ends, kingpins & the wheel bearings all of which are simpler fixes before you opt for the major surgery.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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06/02/2022

I have 61 Corvette and all four hub caps keeps moving. It will move enough that it would bend the valve stems. I rest all four hub caps take the car out for a ride, come home and have to reset hub caps again..

                       I do have the correct rims for the car with four nubs on them. The wheel cover only two delineated spaces on each hub cap. I was told I need four on each hub cap. Please advise……Glenn

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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05/20/2022

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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05/12/2022

New member here # 5130. 1960 model.  I have two assembly manuals. Does anybody or anywhere is there an explanation of the numbers and letters in these books? My Mid America manual pg L71 has a 451247 screw. Is there footnotes for these? Thanks, Jim

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I have an original Chevrolet parts catalog for 1953 through 1973.  I show no reference to any Chevrolet part number 451247.  If you can describe the application, I can probably identify the screw if that's what you're looking for.

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05/07-2022

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I put a canvas Al Koch top on my 54 in 2000. I’ve been very pleased with it.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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05/04/2022

Hi... I'm trying to find where and which direction a distributor heat shield goes on my car. As you well know, passenger side
bolted to exhaust manifold.
Any information you may lend will be greatly appreciated.  1959 2X4 Carbs.

Best,
Mike

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  The driver side mounts just like the passenger side - two tabs mounted to the inside bolts of the front and rear exhaust manifold mounting bolts. See photos.

Driver's shielding

Front side mount

Rear shielding

Corvette Central has a good illustration of the shielding and mounting hardware.  Pg95 - mounting brackets are identified as L-Brackets P/N 471125 (4 required)

Ffrom: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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04/08/2022

I am trying to find the location for the stamped numbers on the frames of my 1954 and 1962 Corvettes could you please help!

Chuck

From: Bruce Fuhrman, past Secretary of SACC: 

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03/23/2022

I am working a 59 frame off and am getting bac to body reassembly. Looking over the grill and eyebrow surrounds and the studs used to affix them to the body. Keen, corvette central and zip along with my original have various sizes of studs. The grill surround appears to use 2 inch long studs on the outer most “circumference” but when installed over 1” of stud is exposed. Is this correct?

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

(Discussion continued)

Thank you Jack, I just joined  SACC this afternoon. What im trying to verify is are the studs , 2 inch long correct.  When installed and hardware on they protrude about 1 inch  and appear too long. The Assembly manual shows same part number for all studs. But I have 3 lengths. Here is a picture of the upper grill surround for my 59 with the studs installed. 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Ronald - I have a 58 whose grill surround is original, and the mounting studs are long like those shown in your photo (approx. 2").

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03/08/2022

Hi, I Joined the SACC earlier this year #5112 and I’m looking forward to the club activities.  I just purchased a 1957 270 HP corvette this year.  The car was restored over a period of years finishing in about 2011.  After going through the NCRS judging process that concluded in 2013 the car was mostly stored in a climate controlled room and obtained about 130 miles since the restoration.  The car was started on a regular basis during storage.

I am now experiencing a starter issue.  When trying to start the engine i will get a whining noise from the starter.  The starter is not engaging the flywheel just spinning.  This may happen two, three times in a row and then it does engage and the engine will start.

Does this sound like a solenoid problem or could it be the starter drive that is attached to the solenoid.  My thought is since this starter was rebuilt perhaps 12 to 15 years ago and only 130 miles on it perhaps it is dirty or needs lubrication?  Or is it a typical solenoid fault?

Thanks
Eugene

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I agree with Verle, however, to get the solenoid to kick in you have to apply 12V to the solenoid terminal marked "S".  This terminal is connected to your ignition switch.  The battery cable attached to the large terminal is always hot.  When the solenoid is energized it connects the Battery cable to the starter and pushes the starter gear (bendix) into the flywheel.  If the starter is spinning then the solenoid is operating.  BUT the solenoid also pushes the bendix gear into the flywheel to roll the engine.  The Bendix gear is a spring loaded and threaded assembly.  Normally the starter gear is on the end of the Bendix assembly (held there by a spring).  When the solenoid is activated the Bendix assembly is pushed into the flywheel, with the gear at it's end, it engages the flywheel.  When the engine starts, the speed of the flywheel is greater than the rotational speed of the starter and the gear is extracted because it is on a threaded shaft that basically unscrews it from the forward position (disengages the flywheel).  Once the starter is rested - a spring pushes the starter gear to the START position (end of the shaft), ready for the next time you need to start the engine. If the spring that normally returns the starter gear is weak or broken the gear does not return to the START position, thus when you engage the starter the gear does not engage the flywheel.  The whole Bendix assembly or the spring itself can be replaced.  I hope this helps - this is not a complicated repair.  Getting the starter off is probably the hardest part of the process.

PS: You can engage the solenoid without suffering the violent torque of the starter by simply applying 12V to the starter terminal (marked "S") without applying 12V to the battery terminal.

Follow-up:

This is a follow up question regarding the starter not engaging the flywheel and just whining.  I pulled the starter and i have it strapped to my bench.  When I put 12 volts to the large top post and ground the starter then put 12 volts to the s terminal the starter gear works fine.  The solenoid shoots out the gear and spins every single time.  It is not
acting like it did when the starter was bolted to the engine.  I looked at the flywheel and all of the ring gears look good.  Could this be due to no load on the starter and not a very robust bench test?  I would hate to crawl back under and install back on the engine and find out it still needs to be rebuilt.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Eugene - does the drive gear spin freely in one direction and lock up in the other ?  The drive gear is suppose to spin freely in one direction only.  The large hub just behind the gear is a ratchet.  A Bendix assembly (or starter drive assembly) is only about $50 - I might replace it just to see what happens.  Good Luck - John

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Larry Pearson







From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Loose Starter bolts - the bolts would have to be VERY loose to cause the starter to not even try to mesh with the flywheel

Bad Bendix linkage - Possibly.  This, however, is a very simple linkage - i've never seen it fail.  If so check the pivot pin.  if it's missing or not.

Bad Bendix Gear - Probably.  Its a common problem - for the Bendix (not the solenoid) spring to fail.  This will cause the starter gear to "not return" to the start position, thus not engage the flywheel when the starter kicks.

                                    If this is the problem - repeated attempts to start the engine will eventually engage the flywheel because the starter/Bendix shaft is threaded such that a sudden spin of the starter will thrust the gear into the flywheel

Bad flywheel ring gear - Again possibly but not probably.  If the ring gear is bad - repeated attempts will not cause the starter to engage.  You have to bump the engine to a different flywheel position like you describe.

I have attached a photo exposing the Bendix assembly.  Note the spring between the solenoid wishbone yoke and the starter gear.  This is the spring that fails and causes the starter gear to fail to engage the flywheel,  You can also see the thread on the starter drive shaft that causes the gear to retract when spun by the flywheel when the engine starts.

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02/24/2022

*Joining is easy!  On our website simply click on "Online New Member Application". 

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02/08/2022

Looking for a qualified mechanic to service my 54 Corvette. 

I live in downtown Dallas. The car will need to be trailered. 

Contact information. 

Anthony 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  (*Note: Please be aware of the disclaimer above).  DMS Corvette Shop in Garland.  972-494-6900.  I own a 54 and he's the only mechanic I'll allow near it except myself.

PS: highly recommend association with the local chapter of the solid axle club.  Wealth of knowledge and support.

**********

From: Bruce Fuhrman, Past Club Secretary: 

01/20/2022

Hello, I am trying to figure out if this tach drive unit is a gm part or a repro? If it is a real gm part can you give me an idea of it'svalue?  It cam as extra parts with a 1958 that I bought in 1992. Mike

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  This appears to be a GM unit.  The markings are different than the unit on my 58 but I don't think that is significant.  You can purchase new drive units for approximately $110.00

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12/24/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

12/04/2021

Jack

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

12/1/2021

I have a question about 57 Corvette cross member bolts and some others on the car.    The Frame was painted separate from the cross member, as I understand it, and thus some of the cross members were painted a more shiny color than the frame and was assembled to the frame as it went along.  With that being said how would the bolts have been painted that hold it on to the frame?  Second there are several parts that were assembled to the frame after it was painted like the axle bumpers rear springs just to mention a few.  So were all these bolts painted or not or just some of them and where would I person find a list of what was and wasn’t painted. 

Thanks a lot for your help.

Kermit

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

**********

11/26/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

11/23/2021

I have a 57 I am doing.  Are the bolts that hold the Front Cross Member and several other parts like the motor mounts painted.  I have never seen a none restored car and know that some of the cross members were painted gloss and some weren’t so they were installed after the frame was painted thus my question about the bolts.  Also stuff like the rear spring mounts to the fame and shackle bolts and nuts just things like that because they were installed after the frame was painted I think or were they?  You know upper/lower A arm bushings and things of that nature that was put on after the frame paint.  I am pretty sure the grease zerks were not painted because I am old enough to remember that as I worked in a gas station and greased them.  Got any ideas?

Thanks,

Kermit

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

**********

10/30/2021

Hello,
>
>
> I have a 62 corvette, 300 hp with a t-10 4 speed trans.  Recently, it started to grind slightly when I shift from 1st to 2nd.  After the car warms up it doesn’t do it.  What do you suggest?  I’m thinking to change the oil to see if that will fix it.  What transmission oil do you recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

10/25/2021

Attached is a photo of the hubcaps that were on the '54 Corvette that I recently purchased and I know they are not Corvette hubcaps but wondered if anyone can identify the  year, make and model that these were originally used on? I am guessing a 50's vintage Chevrolet?  Thanks for your help, John

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Photos of the first Corvettes off the production line in 53 exhibit a hubcap very close to that in your photo.  They are believed to be that of a 53 Bel Air.  Investigate passenger car (Bel Air) caps around your year.  I have attached an article from "The Real Corvette (pg29)" FYI.

**********

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Where are you located?  I recently purchased 58 Charcoal acrylic lacquer from English Color in Plano, Texas.  They had to import it from their shop in Houston - but they still supplied it.

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

09/21/2

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

09/14/2021

Richard







From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Richard:  You don't say what type of radiator fan you are using.  If you are using a water pump mounted fan, the notched (forward) sway bar should not be a problem.  It would offer more fan clearance than a straight sway bar would.  But if you are using an electric fan mounted on the radiator, then the forward notch would be a problem.  The forward notched sway bar was necessary due to the considerable length of the six cylinder engine.  When the small block V-8 was introduced, the sway bars were made straight, because this engine is much shorter than the six.  It is interesting to note that the better heat rejection of the V-8 (due to the much shorter path from the exhaust valve to the exhaust port with the new V-8 cylinder head design, resulting in less exhaust heat being transferred to the coolant) allowed Chevrolet to use a smaller radiator for the V-8 in sedans.  The V-8 also weighed less then the six, and cost less to manufacture.  In 1955, I am told that it cost Chevrolet about $65 to manufacture a 265 V-8 engine, exclusive of overhead costs.  They should have charged less for the V-8 than the six, but they didn't,

In answer to your question, any 1956-62 sway bar is straight.  They should be easy to acquire.

Larry Pearson

**********

   Hi, I have a 61 Corvette 283 Engine w/ DUAL Quads 245 HP. What type of gas should I use in this engine.

I have been running a premium fuel w/ Lucas Octane Booster. Can I switch to 87 Octane and run Octane Booster ?

Or is there anything better that you can recommend.

Thanks,

  Glenn

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Glenn,

I'm going to assume you mean you are using unleaded Premium 93 Octane 10% ethanol gasoline with octane booster in your car. 

Around home, I use 100% recreational 90 octane unleaded gasoline in my 1960 230HP 283 that has with same compression ratio as yours and it runs fine.

 

Your car's components were not designed to deal with the corrosive effects of ethanol long term.

On long trips like the recent convention trip, I had to use the Premium 93 gas and filled up on the good stuff when we got home. 

 

However, if if your engine has not had hardened valve seats installed in the stock heads, you probably need to add lead substitute as well. 

 

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC








From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

 Glenn:  I own a 1960 Corvette with the base 230 hp engine, and it is completely original and has never been rebuilt.  This is the exact same engine as the 245 hp engine, except that it has a single 4 barrel carburetor.  Both engines have a 10.5 compression ratio.  I live in California, which has the worst gasoline in the country.  Premium is 91 octane and $5.00+ per gallon.  My 60 runs just fine with the 91 octane gasoline and no octane booster.  Occasionally I add a lead substitute to protect the valve seats, but I don't think that this is necessary for the low performance engines.

If your engine is original or has been rebuilt to original specs and is properly timed, you should have no problem using 91 or better octane pump gasoline.  If it pings when driven hard, retard the timing.  I have a 62 with 11.25 compression and have had no luck with octane boosters.  I have found that 1/2 quart of lead additive per 10 gallons of premium boosts the 91 octane to an acceptable level for this engine.  Lead additive is available on the internet.

Larry Pearson

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  You did not say whether your motor runs in a manner that it needs octane booster.  That is important to the question.  The stock configuration was 9.5 compression with flat top pistons.  The combustion chambers were small on the stock heads and 0.016" head gaskets were used.  Do you know whether the configuration is stock or was the motor rebuilt with 0.030 or thicker composite head gaskets? 

If you are getting pinging during acceleration, have you backed off on the timing?

We need more information and I am inclined to say your motor does not need anything special in the fuel.

With ethanol additive gasoline, I would use 1/2 oz. of ATF per gallon of gasoline.

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08/29/2021

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Probably a fused wire.  Start at the light switch and work your way back.

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08/21/2021

Tech Help,  September 2020 and April 2021 posts to your tech team and review of past posts were a valuable source to remove and install the speedo and tach with newly greased bearings on my 59.

Now I think the fuel pump failed.  Paragon no longer stocks the AC 4656 fuel pump as mentioned on this thread.  It seems it is no longer produced.   Does anyone have a source that still has one. I am leery about purchasing a reconditioned original on EBay.  Anyone have experience with rebuilding these pump?

Eric

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Larry Pearson








From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Also, You can get the car to run for long enough by pouring gas into the area where the metering rods are.  Then start the car and see if there is any flow from the disconnected fuel line.

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08/16/2021

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  The passenger seat on a 54 is not mounted to a frame.  The spring sets (bottom and back) mount directly to the floor and bulkhead of the car itself. I don't know of anywhere the brackets (more like clips) are shown.  If you can't find any references to help you - I can take a photo of mine and send it to you.  Good luck - John

From: Bruce Fuhrman, past club Secretary: 

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07/23/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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07/15/2021

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Michigan Chapter SACC







From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Bruce:  You mention a 1961 service manual.  I have never heard of such a thing, except for the passenger cars.  The Chevrolet Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12 is the only official shop manual that Chevrolet produced for the C1 Corvettes, and it attempts to cover the entire 1953-1962 production run.  It is a "must  have" for all C1 Corvette owners who work on their cars.  If you don't have this manual, it is available as a reprint from all Corvette parts suppliers.  The radio antenna installation is covered on page 13-4. Figure 3.  Although this figure is supposed to apply to all C1 Corvettes, it actually is specifically for the 1961-62 Corvettes, which is exactly what you are looking for.

You don't say where you got this "correct" antenna.  What you have may actually be for a 1956-60 Corvette, which installs through a rounded fender top rather than the rather flat sloped fender top of the 1961-62 Corvettes.  The 1956 through 1960 antenna assembly is slightly longer than the 1961-61 because of the longer height in the trunk compartment, but it might work in your 1961 trunk.  Corvette Central sells the fender top hardware if you have the earlier setup.

I assume that your car originally had a radio installed by the factory and, therefore, that the hole in the fender top is in the correct location so everything in the trunk properly lines up.  All vertical mast antennas need a ground plane to work properly.  On metal car bodies, the car body is the ground plane.  On the Corvette, the frame is used as the ground plane, and this connection is provided by a copper strap that connects the antenna housing  to a bolt accessed through an access cover in the trunk that electrically connects to the frame, as shown in Figure 3.  Also the frame must be grounded to the engine block with the two heavy copper ground straps that connect the frame to the engine mounting bracket shown in Figure 6 on page 13-7.  On Corvettes, the engine block is the ground point for all electrical systems on the car.

Larry Pearson

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07/06/2021

Good Afternoon :

 I acquired a 1954 corvette 10 years ago. The vehicle did not have the original engine or transmission.
After many years of searching. I found an original 54 corvette engine and transmission.  I had the engine and transmission rebuilt.
The question that I am asking is the timing of the engine.  I have the beebee on the flyweight in line with the pointer. The distributor rotor on number 1 cylinder on the cap. When I crank the engine over and check the to see if the distributor rotor in on number 1 again it seems the it is off from the original setting.

Am I doing something wrong.?

Your help would be greatly appreciated

Thank you

Scott

From: Bruce Fuhrman, Past Secretary:  Hi Scott,

 Is the engine running? If not, there is something wrong. Be sure the compression is #1 and not exhaust. Do this by taking the sparkplugs out and checking the compression in #1. It may be the installed the distributor off by a gear?

If running-   I had a '54 and it had the original engine & transmission. During a transmission o'haul they could not locate the proper flywheel (the teeth were worn out) by the starter, so they reversed it! It worked out, BUT, I lost the timing mark! I simply used a Dwell meter to set the points and drove the car till there was no "ping" and used the Dwell meter again when replacing the points. The proper dwell is 40.5-47.5 degrees, and the timing is on the beebee.

Good luck,

Bruce Fuhrman

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  1- Rotate the engine until the timing pointer lines up with the BB or circle on the
flywheel.

2- Adjust the points for proper dwell.  Rotate the distributor until the points are on a high point of the distributor cam.  Adjust the points for a 0.16 gap (establishes an approximate setting)

3- Connect a ohm meter between the points feed to the coil and ground (disconnect from the coil).  When the points are closed the ohm meter should read 0 ohms.  Rotate the distributor until the points just open (ohm meter will jump to MAX ohms).  Lock down the Distributor.
4- Note where the distributor rotor is pointing - it should be pointing to No.1 plug terminal.

5- If you need to adjust the dwell you will have to re-adjust the timing.

Addendum to above answer.....

You are not looking for where the distributor rotor aligns with No.1 - you are looking for where the points break associated with No.1   

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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06/25/2021

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

From:  Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter  VP: 

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06/22/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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06/18/2021

  Does anyone make king pin kit with needle bearing instead of bushing.

                Also is a good thing to do ?

                Also on differential fill plug leaks ? Install new plug with gasket, someone total me to use copper gasket .

                Please advise.

                Regards,

                Glenn

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Glenn:  I finally got around to see if anyone manufacturers or sells a needle bearing king pin kit, and found nothing.  If it was available, Corvette Central would have it, and they don't.  The bushings will last longer than you will, as long as you grease them.  The factory recommends a 1000 mile interval for greasing all 22 grease fittings on your car's front suspension.  This is unreasonable, and I feel that you can safely go to a 2000 mile interval.  Be sure to grease all four inner fittings on the upper A-arms.  They are hard to see and access, but if you ignore them, the bushings will fail and are very difficult to replace.

The differential fill plug uses a leather gasket.  If you replace it and it still leaks, wrap the plug threads with Teflon tape and that should fix the leak.

Larry Pearson

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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06/17/2021

I am Chris and I have a ’61.  Thank you Verle for your suggestion with my tail light issue.  Still working on it.  My fuel gauge reads beyond full and does not change.  I heard from someone that it might mean the gauge is not grounded.  Any thoughts on how to check out my gauge?  Second question, what additive, if any, should I put in my tank when I fill up.  I have put 93 octane in it so far.  It is the original 283 engine.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

Verle






From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Chris:  On the subject of your tail light problem, the 1961 and 1962 Corvettes had their tail lights located low in the trunk where the sockets could be damaged by trunk items coming in contact with them.  In 1962, light gray plastic protective cones were placed over the four tail light plugs to protect them from damage.  These protective cones are reproduced, and I recommend that you purchase a set for your 1961.  

As to the damage that can occur to the in trunk part of the tail lamp assembly, each connector plugs into the tail light assembly and is retained by two plastic pins molded in to the sides of the plug-in socket.  If one of these gets broken off, the socket plug will become cocked in such a way that one of the two spring loaded contacts may not properly contact one of the bulb contacts.  In the worst case, the spring loaded contact may contact the grounded lamp housing, resulting in a blown fuse.  A broken off pin can be repaired without replacing the plug assembly.  You can drill a hole in the socket where the pin is missing and fabricate a plastic pin out of a plastic rod obtainable from hobby stores and use JB Weld to secure it in place.  Drill the hole slightly smaller than the plastic rod diameter to make a tight fit prior to JB Welding it in place.  You can even use a tooth pick.

The gas tank is grounded with a black 18 gauge wire that connects to the tail light ground wire in the rear wiring harness.  The engine block, not the frame, is the ground source for all electrical system in your car.  If this black ground wire somehow is not there or is an open circuit somewhere in the wiring harness, the proper way to ground the gas tank is to run an 18 gauge or larger wire from one of the sender screws down through the rocker panel area and up to the instrument housing where you should attach it to one of the 1/4 inch screws that attach the instrument housing to the metal structure, which is an excellent ground point.  All the electrical systems, the horns, the lighting, clock, and the instruments (except the radio and wiper motor, which have their own ground wires) connect to the engine block via a 12 gauge black with white stripe wire that connects to the driver's side upper rear rocker arm screw.  This ground wire must be in excellent shape and well connected to the rocker arm cover screw, or nothing in the car will operate properly, if at all.

When you finally get your gas gauge working properly using the original black gas tank ground wire, you will likely note that the gas gauge pointer moves to the right when the brakes are applied.  This is a result of a factory screw-up with the 1961 and 62 Corvettes. When they added the two additional tail lights, they neglected to use a larger ground return wire and stayed with the 18 gauge wire, which is inadequate for all those lights and the gas tank sender.  The resulting electrical imbalance results in the gas tank pointer moving when the brakes are applied.  The only way to fix this is to run a separate ground wire from the gas tank to the instrument housing as described above.

Larry Pearson

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06/06/2021

I am Chris and I just joined the solid axle corvette club.  I recently purchased a 1961 Corvette.  My original program was that the right blinker worked great but when I selected the left blinker, the green arrow on my dash came on but did not blink and the front white left blinker light came on but did not blink.  Same for the left rear lights.  From a blog someone told me that I likely needed to replace my turn signal flasher on my front driver’s side fuse box.  I found out from this blog where that fuse box was located….thank you very much Larry!!!  I bought the replacement flasher, installed it and it solved my blinker and brake light problems which was very helpful, especially in Texas since I have to get the car inspected before I can get my plates (I bought the car from a dealer in Minnesota).  However my new issue is that now the rear, left inside tail light does not come on with the running lights.  I had put a new bulb in it and both filaments look fine.  Any thoughts on my problem?  Thank you for any help.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Check the position of your turn signals.  Make sure it is in the neutral position.  These switches have a bad habit of moving slightly to one side (usually left turn).  It will not be enough to cause the blinker to engage - but it will turn off that tail light.

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06/03/2021

Can you tell me where the fuse box is on a 1961 Corvette?  I need to replace the turn signal flasher.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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05/30/2021

54 vette choke knob

Any tricks to removing choke cables and knob from on a 1954 vette? I plan to have the cables replaced. Thanks, Tex





From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  No trick - Loosen cables from the carbs, the knob attaches to the dash with a large nut on the back of the dash, loosen the nut and slide the choke cable assembly out of the carbs, firewall and dash.

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05/30/2021

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Look at the assembly manual for how they are mounted.  For a 1957, it is sheet J2.  The nut plates are installed from the bottom, not in the car.  The floor is flat where the nutplates are located.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

Note: if you're having trouble locating your seat rails - slide the seat all the say back on the rails, set the seat frame in the car against the rear bulkhead.  
This gives you a full range of adjustment.  Make sure when slid forward the seat (cushion) does not interfere with the transmission hump.   This is adjusted by the side to side location of the seat.

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05/27/2021

I’m redoing the front suspension on my 1960 (5034).  My question is should I leave the original inner upper pivot shaft?  
What I have read it is the most important part of the job.  The new cap only goes on a few rotations and bogs down, the 
old caps spin right on.  What I can figure is it is a 3/4 by 11 can’t find a die to clean threads.  Also read where you 
can make the tool to thread new pivot shaft in with old shaft parts but see Paragon part number 10538 is a pivot shaft installer, 
is that for this pivot shaft?  I called their tech line and the guy was what does the catalog say, it doesn’t.  Thanks

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

That installation tool is not useful.  I have one that I did not use.   I used the lower outer shaft as a tool.  The bushing and pivot bolt are the same thread as the upper inner shaft.  Put the bushing on the outer shaft threads, screw the pivot bolt into the bushing until it contacts the end of the shaft and you have a tool to screws the shaft in with.






From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  If the old caps (nuts) thread on with no resistance but the new ones do - the new ones are of the wrong thread.  Don't force them.  Have you purchased a new pivot shaft yet - try the new nuts on the new shaft.  If the new shaft threads are different, they will not install in your original equipment.

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05/01/2021

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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04/25/2012

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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04/14/2021

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Corvette Central and Al Knoch Interiors offer DVDs that show how to do this.  There are also U-Tube videos available, if you search C1 Dashpad Installation

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04/08/2021

In September 2020, your officers answered some questions about speedometer cables and bouncing speedometer needles on my 1959.  I also searched your posts for information on removing my speedometer and tachometer.  I have all the wires labeled, bolts removed but can’t figure out how to remove the wiper cable pull knob on the instrument panel.  Please advise.  Thank you.

  Eric

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Addendum from Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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03/29/2021

Was wondering if you could tell me if you can “interchange” channel selector “push buttons” from a 59 to a 62 Corvette Wonderbar radio. I have a 62 radio I need to make look like a 59. I understand the push buttons are made differently. Also, are the “Chrome Face Plates” interchangeable?  Thanks.

 Dennis.

From:  John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Ecklers Corvettes 800-327-4868 sells faceplate/bezel/pushbutton refurbish kits for 58/60 and 61/62 Corvette wonderbar radios.  Contact them to see if they are mechanically interchangeable.  

From Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Dennis,
Wonderbar knobs, push buttons & faceplate are different between 1959 and 1962 radios but functionally are all the same. Kits to convert or restore are commercially available from most Corvette vendors.
The link below is from Corvette Central so you can see what's available.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/radio/radio-rebuild/1959/?count=15
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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03/27/2021

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The clutch pedal travel is adjusted by lengthening / shortening the clutch push rod (847) that connects the cross shaft (709) to the clutch wishbone.(489K).  This is accomplished by screwing the push rod clevis (883) up or down the rod.  See attached drawing for reference numbers.  The shaking can be several things.  If it didn't shake before you had the work done, it shouldn't shake now.  If the clutch assembly (Disc and/or pressure plate is out of balance that will cause a shutter, but most replacement parts don't require balancing.  The crankshaft where the pilot shaft of the transmission is stabbed has a brass bearing or bushing.  If this was inadvertently removed and not replaced - you will get a violent shaking at all speeds and gears (common oversight).

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Also from John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Greg - you casually mentioned your clutch would stick when pressed to the floorboard.  This may not have been your major concern, but it is a problem that needs addressing, so here goes.  This can be caused by several things.  See the attached illustration: The return spring (630) on the cross shaft (709) is designed to give resistance to the pedal when you clutch.  As you continue to depress the pedal, this spring crosses the axis of the cross shaft and becomes an assist rather than a resisting force.  This is designed to allow you to relax a little when holding the clutch in at - say - a stop light.  1) If your clutch pressure plate springs are weak they may not overcome the return spring on your cross shaft, however, they would have to be very weak to cause this.  If this is your problem - replacing the clutch should solve this. More likely 2) the clutch return spring (630) attached to your cross shaft (709) is the problem.   Where the spring changes from a resisting force to an assisting force, as you depress the pedal, is adjustable.   The adjustment is made with the bracket (635).  It should never cause the pedal to stick down.  Several things may cause this 1) You have the wrong return spring (630).  This spring should be a 17 coil spring.  2) the return spring (630) attaches to the cross shaft bracket (635) by a link (636) which is about 1" long.  If this link is missing and the return spring (630) is connected directly to the bracket (635) it requires the return spring to be stretched further than it is designed to be, and will significantly increase its tension strength.  When the clutch is depressed to the point the return spring becomes an assist, the increased pull on the spring may become more than the pressure plate springs can overcome, and could cause the clutch to fail to return properly.  Check to verify you have a correct return spring and the attaching link is there.  Good luck - John

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03/25/2021

Hello, I recently placed the body onto a new frame. I did not personally remove the connections under the hood. Can you direct me to a schematic showing the connections and grounding straps for the 1962 corvette.

 Regards Mark

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapteer President: 

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03/09/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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03/07/2021

I have a 1959 corvette and am trying to install the rear bow weather strip.  The weather strip has 2 sets of two holes at the latch positions, does the latch fit over the weather strip and the screws go thru it or are the holes in the weather strip just access holes to reach the latch screws.  Also is there a trick to getting the weather strip lip to stay on the rear bow so it can be glued or stapled?



From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Order of assembly - top bow - weatherstrip - latch - mounting screws.  See illustration below.

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03/04/2021

Hello, I’m restoring a 1960 barn find.  Finally putting the car back together. However, I need some direction on how to install the new dash pad.

I know that I need to cut the dash but not sure how much too cut and where. If there is any help or a source you can point me to I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank You, Bob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

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03/01/2021

61 corvette fi  yes  but  not  on  car ign switch wont  start  car   head lites  dont  work  battery  good  put  no power  to   ign switch and  head lites  found a  wire  in same  harness  with  the  purple  wire  that  goes  to  sol  had  all coating  burnt  off  cant  tell  what  color  that  wire  was  not  sure  where  it   went  but  all wires  are  on  the  ign  switch   

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Bill



















From John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  CAUTION - CAUTION - CAUTION :  Burnt insulation usually means YOU HAVE A SHORT in your wiring.  Electrical shorts and fiberglass Corvettes don't play well together.  Before you go any further - make sure you have a fire extinguisher readily available.  If you don't - Go Get One.  Next thing you need is a volt meter - you don't need an expensive one - just one that will tell you you have 12 volts at test points.  Third - its a good ides to have a helper, operating the ignition switch and testing for voltage in the engine bay or under the dash by yourself is difficult.  I have included a rough layout of the wiring (ignition / lighting circuit) for reference, assuming your car has a stock harness. 

Before you start - loosen the connection to your battery sufficiently - so you can disconnect it immediately if needed.

1) Power comes from the battery - to - the starter solenoid (term B) - to the Ammeter. (SEE DIA FOR WIRE SIZES AND COLORS)

2) From the Ammeter - to - the Ignition Switch..... and..... Lite switch .... Clock, Horn Relay, ACC Fuse, Voltaqge Reg, and Cigarette Lighter Connections  (connections are NOT fused).

3) From the Ignition Sw. - power is returned to the Starter Solenoid (term S) to activate the solenoid and connect the battery to the Starter.

TESTING FOR PROBLEM

1) verify voltage (12V) at the "B" term of the solenoid.  (ignition off)  This is the 6 GA wire off the battery.

2) the Black 12 Ga. wire from that same terminal feeds the Ammeter.  The load side of the Ammeter feeds the Ignition Sw (14 RED) and the Light Sw.(12 / 14 RED) and others.

Since you have noted a burnt wire in your starter harness it is probably the wire running from the solenoid to the ammeter.  This would disconnect power from the ignition and lights.

3) Test for voltage on the Ammeter.  Single wire is feed (probable burnt wire) - multiple wires is load.  Both should have 12V (ignition OFF).

If no voltage - you have verified the main wire from the solenoid to the ammeter is open (burnt).  Note: This is not your problem, however, it is the result of a problem.  Analyze the wire from the burn to the ammeter.  If you don't find an obvious problem - disconnect the battery and run a new wire (12 Ga.) to the ammeter.  It would be a good idea to put a fuse in line with this wire until you have everything working properly. Get a hand full of fuses also. Once the wire is in place - reconnect the battery.  If the temp. wire (fused) to ammeter blows, disconnect all wires from the load side of the ammeter.  Reconnect them one at a time - disconnect battery / connect single load / reconnect battery.   Does one blow your fuse ?  If so that circuit has the short you are looking for.  All these feeds are hot (they do not require the ignition switch to be activated) except the ignition switch feed.  When testing the ignition circuit the "ON" position connects the instruments and radio.  The START position connects the power to the starter solenoid.

Once you have identified what circuit (load) is causing the problem, you simply have to determine if the wire feeding the load is the problem or the load itself.  Good luck.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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02/18/22021

On a 56 Corvette with 2 four carbs, and 1896 heads, Is the generator pulley 3 3/4" or 3 5/8" also are the press marks rectangular or round? my 56 is #1896   Thank You

Wayne

From:  Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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02/18/2021

I have a question about door weatherstrip installation. The reproduction weatherstrip that I recently bought for the doors on my 62 has the plastic pins to insert in the holes of the door....so I would like to know is it necessary to use 3m adhesive when the pins and clips might suffice?  Thank you , Garry

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President: 

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02/09/2021

Hello,

My 1956 air cleaners have a lot of scratches and some dents.  Should I have then restored or just buy replacements?  I don't plan to have the car judged, but I always do like to keep the original equipment if I can.  Expense wise I would just purchase new ones if it was going to be real costly to restore the originals.  If I were going to have them restored, is there anyone that you can recommend to me to do that job?

Also some time ago I asked the question of why my two clutch forks that I had put away to use in my 1956 when I finally got to it, were different.  One with a slotted end and one with an oval hole.  You explained the the slotted one was used in a 1957 through 1962.  I think that you went on to say the the adjustable ball, held on with a clip, are hard to find.  I do have the complete unit and I wonder which style you would recommend that I install.

Thank you,
Michael

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter President: 

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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02/08/2021

Hi,
I recently bought a 62 Corvette the wipers do not work? No hum from the motor cables seems to be in tack how do I tell if it is the transmissions or the motor?
Thankyou
Bob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Bob,
Welcome to Corvette heaven. I'm guessing you just bought either your first Corvette and or your first C-1.

The tach drive is off your distributor and has nothing to do with your wipers.
If the tachometer is noisy, it's probably your tach cable.
If it's noisy & erratic, it could be either or both of the tachometer or cable.

The electric wiper motor switch is on top of the wiper motor gearbox and is actuated by a pull cable attached to the wiper switch located on lower left of the instrument cluster closest to the steering column.
The problem could be switch cable adjustment or being disconnected, a blown fuse or faulty contact inside the gearbox switch. Use a meter to check for electric current. If you have WS Washers, the coordinator which mounts on the gearbox switch plate could be missing, broken or disconnected. Try buying an original and you'll see why it could be missing.

The wipers don't have "transmissions", they have a mounting Pully-Shaft and are both driven by cables off the wiper motor gearbox.
Buy yourself a 1962 Corvette Assembly Manual and read it before you
accidentally break something that is costly to replace.

Congrats on your new toy,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  First - the wiper motor operation has nothing to do with the wiper transmissions and drive cables.  Don't tear into these unless you have to.  The motor control located in your dash is not electrical - it is connected to the wiper motor via a sleeved cable.  The actual electrical switch that turns the motor on and off and controls its speed is on the motor assembly itself.  1) Make sure you have power to the motor.  The motor feed connects to the ballast resistor in the engine bay on the firewall on the passenger side by the wiper motor.  This is not a fused connection. It feeds directly from the ignition switch. Switch ON = 12V.  With the switch ON you should have 12V at the ballast resistor and wiper motor. 2) Make sure the motor is grounded.  It should be a jumper between the motor mounting plate and the engine valve cover mounting screw.  3) Make sure a twist of the wiper switch on your dash moves the wiper motor actuator slide.  And moves it far enough to activate the motor switch inside the cover plate to which it is attached.  4) If the actuator doesn't move or you are not sure it moves far enough - loosen the clamping screw that holds the cable jacket in place and move the actuator by hand.  If after this you get no motor, you probably have a bad motor.  You can disassemble the motor assembly and remove the cover plate to inspect the switch and speed controls, but I have rarely seen them fail.  Good Luck - John

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02/07/2021

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter President: Barry
The passenger side washer jar was used on 58 thru 62 fuel injected cars and your bracket is unique to fi cars. All others used a diffetent bracket mounted on the drivers side splash pan. The fi washer equipment was moved to the passenger side due to air cleaner interference.
Chip Werstein

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Yes!!

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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02/02/2021

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I have taken Um-teen doors apart and I have to retrain myself every time.  They are kinda like a Chinese Puzzle.  Just take your time and don't get frustrated.  To take the window out you don't have to remove the front post and door guts, a lot of rebuilders do - it just adds to more loose pieces you have to manipulate.  You roll the window up and down to gain access to all the mounting hardware.  1) With the glass (and frame) loose from the regulator (four small screws hold the glass to the track that runs along the bottom of the window unit) - 2) Lower the regulator down out of the way. 3) Rotate the window assembly slightly toward the rear (front up - back down) and it will come out.  If it binds up - don't force it.  Move or remove what is binding.  With the glass out, the remaining pieces come out fairly easily.  When you're re-assembling it - go slow - pay attention to how it came apart.  The glass and frame go in last.  The door glass frame is notorious for catching on everything.  You will think it won't go back together - inspect the back glass frame - it will undetectably catch on the door braces and not allow you to set the window forward enough, thus the window will not roll up and down when assembled.  Note the operation of the window as it rolls down - it rocks back then down.  Good Luck.  Let me know if you invent any new words, I'll add them to my garage dictionary.   -   -John

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1/17/2021

My name is Leo.  

I inherited my uncles 58 corvette about 1.5 years ago and I’ll be starting restoration. 
 

First thing first. Fiberglass work.  I already had a fiberglass guy look at my car and seems to be on point with the work needed,

(front end needs the most work).  He looked at the top of the front end, fenders and hood. The fiberglass is solid,

but has fibers exposed. 

My question to you concerns the process only for the top of fenders and hood. I was told to sand and reglass using chop Matt sheets.

I was also told to sand and mix resin with half inch chop strand (the half inch chopped fiberglass that comes in plastic bags-looks

like powder) and brush a new layer over the tops of the fenders and hood.  

Then block sand. Is this something that is done? It was suggested because the car sat out for 10-20 years in a field, and even

though the fiberglass is solid, the top is showing fibers. What’s your thought?

Thanks 
Leo

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Leo - if the glass is sound, and it looks like it is, I would just restore the gel coat. This is a spray on process, it doesn't add significant thickness and it will give you a smooth surface to prime and paint. You will still want to lightly sand the gel coat (300 grit or higher) before priming.

**********

1/5/2021

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

Michigan Chapter SACC 






From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Mike

Bill's explanation is correct but the bushings can still be difficult to press in. To make installation easier i heat the strut rod ends....im in s.cal so just putting them in the sun on a warm day does the job......and put the bushings in the freezer. The rod will expand and the bushing will contract providing a couple thousands extra clearance which will make installation much easier.

Chip Werstein

**********

From: Joe Lemay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Barry

As Joe said, you have the wrong wiper motor. Should be electric. Also the ballast resister is in the wrong location.
Chip Werstein

**********

Barry




From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Barry,

For 1958 thru 1960, the 5500 RPM tach was used on the low HP engine options which were the 230 HP carbureted, 245 HP dual carbureted & 250 HP w/ FI. 

 

The 6500 RPM tach was specified for higher HP options 275 HP dual carb and 290 HP w/ FI. 

 

Good luck with your restoration project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

From: John Spencer, Red  River Chapter Advisor: 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Barry

The tach in your photo is from a 60 to 62 low horse car. Normally referred to as a 5300 redline. 58 tach had no color band up to the redline, dots under the numbers and a rev counter. These were used on 230,245 and 250 hp cars.

Chip Werstein

 **********

12/17/2020

Hello,

I purchased from a friend a harmonic balancer with a riveted on pulley,  which is about 6 13/16 inches across and my water pump pulley is 2 3/4 inches high from the inside to the outside of the pulley.  The pulley is 7 1/8 inches across.  I was taken off his 265 cubic inch engine. I began by installing a new crankshaft spacer recently purchased from Corvette Central.  i put some RTV silicone on the inside of the balancer, (recommended by the machine shop that rebuilt my engine), and installed the balancer.  It slid on 1 1/4 inches, the length of the remaining part of the crankshaft sticking out.  My water pump was also recently purchased from Bill Mock.  My water pump pulley has about 1/8 inch of clearance between it and the balancer pulley, looking at it from the front and from the side it looks like the balancer pulley is slightly behind the water pump pulley.  Does that all seem correct?

The next question is in regards to my core support that came with my car, a basket case without a radiator.  When taking the car apart a few years ago, I found that the core support had a hole cut out in the bottom by a torch.  Most likely for a radiator drain cock. Thinking that it was pretty ugly, I took it and a later solid axle core support to a shop and asked them to cut the drain hole from the later one and weld it into the support from my 1956.  Eventually i found a radiator and when i slid the radiator into the core support, I found that the drain is well above the drain hole that I had installed.  Looking on the 1956 assembly manual it looks like the 1956 core support didn't have  a drain hole in the bottom.  Is that correct?  I guess if it is, I will have to fill in the hole that put in the bottom of mine.

Thanks for all of your help now and over the past months.

Happy holidays,
Michael

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

There is a hole in the radiator support on the passenger side.  See the Assembly Manual Section 13, Sheet 3.  There is a nipple, coupling and petcock, that extends the petcock below the core support.

-Joe





From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Michael: The 1956 through 1960 Corvettes used a copper and brass radiator that bolts to the core support used for those years.  The drain cock fitting is located on the front of the passenger side of the bottom tank of the radiator.  You reach through the grille teeth to access this drain cock fitting (if you have fairly skinny arms).  Otherwise, get someone who does, because that is the only way to get to it, unless you remove the hood.  There is no hole in the bottom of the core support for the 1956 through 1960 cars, because the drain cock is not on the bottom of the radiator.

Starting in 1961 an aluminum radiator appeared and the radiator core support was completely redesigned, because the radiator attached to it in a completely different way.  The aluminum radiator mounted to the support with three rubber donuts, two on the bottom and one on top.  A reason for the rubber donuts was to prevent a corrosive galvanic action from forming between the aluminum radiator and the steel radiator support.  Also, this approach made it very easy to remove and replace the radiator.  The drain cock and its extension pipe for this radiator are of all-aluminum construction (to prevent galvanic corrosion) and exits straight down through a flared oval shaped hole on the driver's side of the core support.  The reason for this was because the aluminum radiators were of a cross-flow design and the "tanks" were on both sides, not the bottom and top.  Never use brass fittings on an aluminum radiator.

Larry Pearson

*****************



I have a 1959 corvette that had a differential grease leak into the brake on the right side.  I pulled the axle and found a bearing with 1 o ring and a 1/8 inch spacer.  The bearing called out for the 58 - 62 has 2 o rings and is the same thickness as the old bearing with the 1/8 inch spacer.  However, when installed the bearing with 2 o rings has a slight bit of the bearing that is not seated in the race although I never looked at the positioning on the old bearing prior to pulling the axle.  My 59 has a 57 block so perhaps the rear axle is 57 also as the bearing race measures slightly less than 1”.

So, are the bearings of the 57 interchangeable with the bearings called out for the 58 - 62 and why the spacer on my old bearing.  The 58 - 62 seems to be a better bearing as it is sealed and with double o rings I would think it would give better leak protection.

Jeff

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Jeff,
Just to reiterate what's in your memo, you have a 1959 Corvette with a defective right rear bearing seal leaking axle lube into your brake components, you think the old bearing is incorrect because it is different from the new replacement that you just bought so now you you think you may have a 1957 engine & rear axle.

Before you buy any more parts,
PLEASE go online to get a copy of the GM 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12,
then invest in a GM 1959 Assembly Manual plus
buy an NCRS 1953-1967 Corvette Specification book, both of which you can buy from most Corvette parts vendors.

With these you need to get acquainted with the part numbers & date codes of what your 61 year old car has & the assembly manual will tell you what part numbers it should have.
 
I suspect a previous owner put in some similar but not necessarily correct parts because they were cheap or easier to get.
Good luck on your quest,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC




From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Jeff:  All 1957 through 1962 Corvettes used the same axles.  Cars with Positraction got roller type rear axle bearings and non Positraction cars got ball bearings.  All 1957 through 1962 Corvettes used the same axle bearings of both types, as applicable.  The service roller type rear axle bearings have not been available for many years.  They are considered to be heavy duty and were also used in taxi cabs.  In addition to the two "O" rings used to seal the bearing outer race to the axle housing, the bearing also has an inner seal, on the outside only, to keep the differential gear oil from leaking onto the brake components but allowing the gear lubricant to lubricate the balls and rollers..  A failure of either seal will result in a leak. Corvette Central sells new replacement  "O" rings.  The bearing seal is not serviceable.  You have to buy a new bearing.  Usually bearing failure results in a leak.

The bearing is supposed to be pressed onto the axle shaft all the way to the flange.  There is no spacer that I am aware of.  Then a retaining ring is pressed onto the axle shaft to assure that the bearing stays in place.  The retaining ring is wider than 1/8 inch.  This retaining ring is not a spacer and must be there or the axle might start moving out of the bearing.

Larry Pearson

**********

12/14/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Michigan Chapter SACC 









From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:   Heater connections go to 1 )intake - 2) waterpump  -  see attached.  good luck - John

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

12/05/2020

I have a 1961 fuelie. Should this car have the generator with the tach drive or a standard generator
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

I have just removed the body off my 1960 corvette.  I have been razor blade stripping the last coat of paint (2^nd coat painted over orig in 1970).  What is the best way to strip the original paint and primer, I have read about many options.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Some enthusiasts don't recommend this method because unless the surfaces are washed very thoroughly you acn leave behind a chemical residue that will ruin a new paint job.  But with care this can be prevented.  I have attached some photos of the process I have used numerous times.  The color coats (repaints) strip easily but I find teh original factory coats to be a little more stubborn.  I use a chemical stripper (bought from your paint supplier - not home depot).  Put on a good pair of rubber gloves and have a bucket of clear water by your side at all times.  Use a paint brush to apply a liberal coat of stripper - wait - let it do its job.  The  paint will bubble up (you may need a second coat/application of stripper)  Use a plastic bondo spreader (not a metal putty knife or razor blade) to scrape off the stripped paint.  This will almost be a liquid.   Scrape the paint off the spreader into a coffee can or other suitable (throw-away) container.  You may need to repeat this step several times.  When you get down to the last coat (primer) scrub the stripper with steel wool to get to bare glass.  Apply one more coat of stripper and scrub it with a clean steel wool pad - only this time, apply running water to the area while you scrub instead of scraping the stripper.  The last step is the critical one.  Apply plenty of water (from a running hose) while you scrub/clean the stripper off.  This removes the chemical residue that will ruin your following paint job.  The result is a clean glass surface that is not gouged up or damaged.  After the glass dries, a light sand job will prep it for the repainting process.  See photos attached.  Good luck !!

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Stephen,

**********

11/12/2020

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

John
Contact Pete Lindahl 505.412.2389. He is the lock guy. He my even have nos ign switches. Nice guy,  quality work.  I have used him for years.

Chip Werstein

**********

11/10/2020

I have a 1962 with a 327 / 340 hp , my garage floor under my tail pipes is full of black soot every time I start her up and it will clear it self after a few minutes.  

Can you help?

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

**********

11/6/2020

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

**********

11/2/2020

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

**********

10/18/2020

Wondering if someone has an opinion on new black carpet for a 62

-Garry

From: Bill. Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:  

Garry,
Most carpet from Corvette suppliers will be from Al Knoch Interior.
Their stock 1959-1962 black carpet is a black/olive tuxedo carpet intended to be identical to GM original. I'm sure there may be vendors who sell a true black if that's what you want.
It' your car, make yourself happy.
One thing I've learned in 5o + years of owning Corvettes, the next owner will most likely want it in stock condition so they don't need to re-do it.

Hope every mile is a happy memory,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

10/15/2020

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

**********

10/06/2020

My 62 starts and idles great.  When I take off it starts to miss on 1st 2nd and third, not as bad on fourth.   I replaced plug wires, cap and rotor, and rebuilt the carb but nothing is working.
-Adnan

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Adnan:  Make sure that your timing is properly set.  The timing mark on your harmonic balancer (damper) may have shifted due to deterioration of the rubber in its construction.  To verify that the timing mark is correct, you will have to determine the actual top dead center.  You can do this by removing the #1 spark plug and carefully turning to engine over with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is at the top of travel.  If your balancer is retained by a bolt, you can slowly turn the engine over using a 1/2 inch ratchet.  If not, remove all of the spark plugs and turn the engine over using the fan blades, if it is rigid (no fan clutch).  If none of the above, you will have to turn the engine with a screwdriver on the teeth of the flywheel and with the use of a helper.

Once you have determined top dead center, mark it with a Sharpie on the edge of the balancer is it is different from the factory mark.  Then replace the balancer as soon as you can, because it is defective.

If the timing is correct, try a new coil.  Check the spark plug wires for continuity with an ohm meter and insulation breakdown by looking for sparking in the dark.  If the wires are of the radio suppression type, the resistance should be about 1000 ohms (I think).  Ten thousand ohms or higher is too much.  Check the ballast resistor for continuity with an ohm meter.  It should be between 0.5 ohms and 1.5 ohms.

Larry Pearson

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  
Adnan - Larry is correct to suspect timing, but I would suspect the distributor advance more than a change in the harmonic balancer.  You can check this with a timing light.  Hook up the timing light and watch the timing mark on the timing chain cover and its relation to the mark on the balancer as you goose (highly technical term meaning open rapidly) the throttle.  You should see the timing mark move in relation with the timing chain cover tab.  If it don't you have a vacuum advance problem (usually presented as a faltering of the engine during acceleration) or a mechanical advance problem (more typical of what you're describing).  When you first crack your throttle you should see the timing drop (vacuum advance function) then advance with RPMs (mechanical advance function).  Otherwise it sounds like you've addressed the other suspects.  Good luck - John

**********

09/29/2020

I have been restoring my ’59 for 30+ years. I’m on the downhill side of this project. But, I’ve run into a problem of how to adjust the door hinges & align the doors. Every source I’ve found only shows the locations of the hinge bolts which control the alignment & some mentions possibly using shims. However, I’ve found no info on what procedure or order to follow. My efforts so far have been less that acceptable.  Can you suggest where I can find such info? Thanks for your time & any guidance or help you might offer.
Lewis

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Lewis:  The procedure is found in the only official GM shop manual for C-1 Corvettes:  Corvette Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12.  Reproductions of this manual are available from all the major Corvette parts supply sources.

The explanation is found on page 1-19, DOOR HINGES and refers to figure 31 on page 1-17.  The door is held to the upper and lower door hinges by three bolts per hinge.  The bolt access holes were originally covered with round black felt covers to keep rain water out of the area behind the door panel.  If you loosen (don't remove) these three upper and lower bolts, the door can be shifted up and down and back and forth to a small degree.  As you adjust the doors as necessary for proper alignment with the body exterior, just tighten one bolt of the three until you have the the door in proper alignment and then tighten the other two bolts.  If the door needs to move outward, you will have to add round steel washers between the hinge and the door.  If the door needs to move inward, you will have to remove any shims that are already in place.  If there are no shims in place, you might have to take your car to an experienced Corvette body shop for help on this.

There are two large Phillips head screws that hold the hinges to the body.  There is no adjustment here, so leave them alone.  Be sure to lubricate the flat friction springs in the body part of the hinge assemblies.  Use Lubriplate light white grease.  There is an upper and lower flat spring in each door hinge.  These are to keep the door fully open with their friction so the door doesn't close on you when you want it to stay open.

After you have the door properly adjusted, be sure to replace the round seals using an adhesive.  If there were no seals, use a couple layers of masking tape over each of the six holes.

Larry Pearson

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

**********

09/26/2020

I just bought a 1959 corvette that has Fuel Injection emblems on it and I am trying to locate the build information to determine if it was actually built as a fuel injected car.  The original engine is long gone and just getting started with the job of replacing tired parts.

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

Jeff,
The bad news is that there is no data base that contains the information you're looking for regarding 1953-1962 Corvettes.
The paint & engine code plate under the hood wasn't added till 1963 production start.

The good news is that with publications such as the Corvette Black Book, the NCRS 1953-1967 Corvette Specifications Guide and the GM 1959 Assembly Instruction Manual, by comparing your car against the standard configuration of the 4 optional engines, three transmission options, plus the numerous RPO's, the car will tell you what it was.
Just remember, owner modifications over the last 61 years may give you conflicting testimony. You are it's archivist, historian & conservator. Take pictures.

If your car is a fuel injection car with the engine changed, all the various components or their previousmounting located under the hood will be where the AIM required them to be.

Good luck in your investigation
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter

**********

09/23/2020

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09/21/2020

I installed a Jim Meyer Racing IFS on my 60 and now they are out of business and I need Upper and lower control arm bushings. I was hoping someone in your club might have some info on these.

Signed, Desperate in WI

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

**********

09/20/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Eric:  Sorry that this response is late. I have 12 cars and have had speedometer problems like you describe many times.  I normally am able to fix the problem myself.  I will tell you how I do it.

The speedometer and tachometer cables must be lubricated with a light weight grease.   Graphite is not a proper lubricant for speedometer cables.  Years ago, the AC division of General Motors sold ST-640 Speedometer Cable Lubricant.  It comes in a metal toothpaste type tube and is white and is very soft.  I recently asked a speedometer repair show what to use, and they said to use a light weight general purpose grease.  Use Lubriplate grease if you can find it.

To lubricate it, pull the cable from the casing and inspect it for damage.  Then use your fingers to apply the grease to the cable as you push it back into the casing.

Now for your other problem.  The squealing is caused by the speedometer or tachometer bearings being dry.  In my experience, you can lubricate these bearings yourself.  Check the bearings for excess wear by turning the shaft end with your fingers and check for up and down movement, indicating excess wear that will require a rebuild.  If there is no evidence of excess wear, drill a small hole, around 1/16", in the top of the casing just at the end of the threads where the cable nut threads on.  There are two bronze bushings that support the speedometer shaft, and this will put you at about the middle between them.  Inject a small amount of oil into this hole.  I use a hypodermic needle.  Use 50 weight engine oil or 90 weight gear oil.  Originally, these bushings were greased, but it is hard to get grease into this hole and to where the bushings are using this method.  Rock the speedometer back and forth to get the oil to the bearings. Spin the shaft with your fingers to make sure it is free.  When in operation, the cable spins at 1000 rpm at 60 mph, so good lubrication is a must.  The tachometer cable spins at half engine speed, because the distributor/generator adapter operates at half engine speed.  If you have a shop rebuild the tachometer, make sure that they calibrate it to read twice shaft speed.

Whenever you hear the speedometer or tachometer make a squealing sound, immediately pull over and disconnect the cable .  This vibration can greatly damage the inner workings of the speedometer in very short order.  It sounds like your speedometer has suffered internal damage and lubrication will not help it.  With the speedometer or tachometer, if you spin the shaft in the correct direction with your fingers and the pointer does not move, you will have to have the unit rebuilt.  You can make a test adapter out of a nail.  Pound the end square with an hammer and use an electric drill to spin the shaft at varying speeds to make sure that the pointer moves smoothly.  If not, you will have to have it rebuilt to fix this.

Corvette Central offers a rebuilding service.  Mechanical speedometers and tachometers with a cable have not been manufactured for many years.  Everything is electronic today, and it is hard to find someone locally who has the parts and knowledge to properly rebuild and calibrate your units.

Larry Pearson

**********

09/19/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

**********

I am hoping that you would have help/instructions for removing the horn button on a 1962 Corvette.

-Charlie

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

 Charlie,
The horn button is retained inside a split spring steel stamping that also acts as the horn contact by three equally spaced retainer detents under the button face.
Insert a flat tool that won't scratch the steering wheel on both  sides of the button and pry up. It should pop off.

Good luck,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

09/08/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Hi Michael

You have a few different items.  The main case is a 56, but cast in Tonawanda and was never used in a Corvette.  The 3855710 tail was used on 1965 Corvettes.  I do not know about that tail mounting arrangement.  The correct 3 speed will mount to the C1 tailhousing.  I am using a early 3 speed shifter with a later C1 tailhousing.  You should be able to acquire a later C1 tailhousing.  The 1956 3722946 tail may be pricey.

The 3 speed shifters mount to the transmission tail without a bracket.  The shifter is arranged with holes to match the tailhousing.  Check the AIM and you will see that.

The bracket at the bottom of the transmission is different for a Muncie 318 3 speed and a BW T-10.  The height is greater for a BW but the spacing is the same.  That bracket you purchased may be the plate that allows using a Muncie M-20 with a C1 transmission crossmember.  You would need to describe if it is a flat plate with four holes in it.

**********

09/05/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Fred - I too have a 58 (great choice) and an original scissor jack.  Although my jack is in mint condition - I would never use it.  A scissor jack is a very dangerous tool.  If you need to raise your 58 for any service, use a hydraulic floor jack.  Use the scissor jack for show only.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Fred:  I own a 60 Corvette that I purchased from the original owner.  It had the original jack and it had probably been used only once and it had completely fallen apart.  The original jacks that came with these cars are dangerous to use and are recommended for show judging only.  Even the reproductions of this jack are not recommended to jack up the car, only for NCRS judging.  My 62 came with a far superior jack of a different and better construction.  The aftermarket jack that your car came with is undoubtedly a much better and safer jack to use for everyday driving.   I question that the jack you have is a correct original one because for the threads to strip, it would have been used many times, and that is not possible with the original jacks.

If you are having your car NCRS judged, and if, indeed, your jack and jack handle are correct looking and will pass a visual check, leave it the way it is.  NCRS judging does not check the jack operation, only the look.  You shouldn't be able to see that the internal threads are stripped by looking at the jack.

Larry Pearson

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

 Fred,
Over the years of owning a C-1, I have learned that a good aftermarket scissor jack is:
 1) visually undisguisable from an original if you remove limiter
    tubes over the Acme screw,
 2) they are unsafe to use for anything more than car show browny
    points
 3) most guys carry an small aluminum floor jack for emergencies.

The Acme nut in your aftermarket would most likely fit the original screw but tearing down both jacks to swap parts means reassembling the original and which will still be unsafe to use.

My advise, use the modified aftermarket jack or put the original jack in the spare tire well under the 6.70-15 bias ply spare for show or points. I've never seen an owner asked to actually jack-up the car with it.
Keep a real floor jack for emergencies.

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

09/02/2020

**********

08/29/2020

Hello,

    I am building a 327 340hp engine for my ’62 Corvette.  It has a NOM 283 dressed to look like a 300hp 327 engine currently and it originally a 300hp car.

  I figured it would be nice to have a correct, though not #s matching 327 340hp style engine in my car.  Things are progressing pretty well except for the issue with the oil pan.  I sourced a 6qt trap door SHP oil pan w/windage tray; though now my engine builder is stating it won’t clear the ’62 suspension/steering.  Apparently, this pan is actually from a 1963 engine and while it will be fine on the engine itself, it won’t work in the car.

Are the ’62 and earlier SHP pans specific enough that a ’63 and up SHP pan will not fit (IE interfere with the car)?  Do I need to try and find a ’62 and earlier pan?  It took me a long time just to find this one.  Thanks for any help on this!

 Greg

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Greg
62 corvette pans are 5 guart. Engines hold 6 quarts....5 in pan, 1 in filter. All 62 pans are the same 2 step configuration but the 340 and 360 pans have the trap door. They were also used in eariler cars. Dont think 63 pan will work. 62 style pans are out there but getting difficult to find. You could use the 250, 300 hp pan as it looks the same from the outside. Most likely Dave Sokolowski in Calif. Has a few of both styles. He advertises in the ncrs driveline.
Chip Werstein

**********

08/25/2020

  I  have 61 Corvette with Dual Point Distributor and Dual Quads  I replaced the Dual Point with Pertronix 91183 Ignitor 11 in place of the Dual Points.

                The car start right up. Idle great, but under a load it misfired and shut off while driving it. Called Pertonix they total me that the mechanical advance is

                Not working. Could this be possible. Has anyone install Pertronix in place of dual points?

                Thanks,

                Glenn

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  
Glen
You must use a pertronix coil with their ignition system. Also, the pertronix requires 12 volts to trigger it so if you are using a ballast resister connect the trigger wire to the 12 volt side.
Chip Werstein

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

1. IMPORTANT: Read all instructions before starting installation.
2. DO NOT USE WITH SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES.
3. The Ignitor II ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 0.45 ohms or greater.
4. All external resistors must be removed to achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor II ignition system.
5. The Ignitor II is compatible as a trigger for most electronic boxes.

**********

08/24/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  It may need the hood hinges adjusted. Lubrication on the hinges helps.

Verle

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The hood support can stick.

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08/19/2020

I have a 1960 that has been sitting for 42 years.  I just started cleaning and pulling numbers from under the hood items.  I know the VIN plate is suppose to be spot welded to the steering column, stamped and made from stainless steal.  While cleaning the dirt off the VIN plate I noticed it was loose, I pried it up and discovered it was glued on.  I took a magnet to it and it does stick.  Does a magnet stick to the VIN tags for this year vet as true stainless does not.

Thanks

Steve

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Steve:  I own a 1960 and checked the VIN tag last night with a magnet, and it is very much magnetic.  The question is why was your tag glued on?  The car could be stolen, of course.  Or it could have been in a severe accident that required that the steering column be replaced and the tag re-attached to the replacement column.  If the engine is the original one, the VIN number is stamped on the front pad of the block along with with the manufacturing date code and horsepower/transmission code.  The VIN number is also stamped in large characters on the top of the frame under the driver's seat.  Reading this requires that the body be somehow lifted above the frame in this area about one inch so you can read it.  If the frame is badly rusted, this number might not be readable at all.

If you are planning to have this car judged by NCRS, they very thoroughly evaluate this tag and its attachment.  They don't pry on it to verify that it is spot welded on, and you can epoxy it on in such a way that it looks correct.  Also, they make portable spot welders and it might be possible to have this tag properly spot welded in place.  There is an industry that reproduces this tag and apparently it is not exact and can be detected as a replacement.  NCRS will not judge the car if this tag is suspect.  You will be required to have your DMV verify the car's VIN, and this gets very messy.  If you plan to have NCRS judge your car with this re-attached tag, do not discuss anything about this issue with the judges.  Let them figure it out.

Larry Pearson

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08/15/2020

Will a 3^rd member out of a 1962 nova fit in a 1959 corvette?

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  I have never tried it but I believe it is the same as Corvettes and tri five Chevies. Probably a tall gear.

Verle

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Wishbone:  The 1955 through 1964 Chevrolet full size sedans use a differential assembly that will fit your 1959 Corvette.  The 1962 Novas were much smaller than the full size sedans and had a four and six cylinder engine option.  In my opinion, it is highly unlikely that the differential supplied with this car was the same size as that used in the full sized sedans.  The full size sedans came equipped with everything from a larger six cylinder engine to a 409 W motor.

Larry Pearson

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08/14/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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08/06/2020

Before I install my harmonic balancer I wanter to check to make sure that I have the correct one.  My balancer has a casting number of 37680 on the inside of the center section and although it has been painted black, I would assume that the balancer on a 265 cubic inch engine should be painted the red engine color.  So do I have the correct balancer and am I correct in thinking that it should be painted red?  It is a stock 1956, 265 cubic inch.

Thank you for your help.
>
> Michael

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  I looked up that casting number and it does not look like what I think a 56 265 balancer should look like.

Here is a very ugly one:

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The photo below is similar to the typical factory balancer but there are some differences.  The typical one has a 3/8" pulley riveted to the balancer and two threaded holes to remove the balancer from the motor.  See the attachment.  There is no separate part number stamped on the riveted pulley.  This pulley is also used on 1957 corvettes except the 270 and 283 HP motors.  270 uses a riveted 1/2" pulley with the same balancer configuration (rare to find).  283 HP uses a 1/2" pulley bolted to the balancer in three places.  It would look like the photo below.  All balancers with riveted pulleys are painted engine color.  Balancer with bolted pulley is engine color.  The bolted pulley is black.

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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08/03/2020

1958 Corvette.  Parking brake  issues, parked with parking brake off since 1977.  

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07/30/2020

> I would like to purchase a 1956 trunk lid from someone
> Do you know anyone?
>
> Thanks
> Rob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:  Rob,
This should be real easy.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/body-frame/fiberglass-rear/56-60-trunk-lid-press-moulded-141093?returnurl=%2fc1-53-62%2fbody-frame%2ffiberglass-rear%2f%3fcount%3d27'
Ecklers, Chicago Corvette, Mid-America, et al sell the same parts.

If you're looking for an original, Paragon has one. https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-349779-trunk-lid.aspx

Otherwise, hit the internet and remember- Condition, Condition, Condition. The better it is, the more it costs.
Good luck.
Bill

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07/28/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Book:  The chrome bezel goes on the outside surface.  On the inside surface, the order is:  Gasket, emblem, and backing plate.  There are special self threading winged nuts to hold everything together.  Pre-thread the special winged nuts on the three studs on the bezel to make it easier to install them with the bezel in place.  Corvette Central sells a special tool to tighten these nuts, which you really need.  They do make a PAL self threading nut with a hex head which is a lot easier to use, but it will not pass NCRS judging.

Larry Pearson 

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07/23/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  See illustration.  Shoulder bolt is Paragon Corvette P/N 628K ($10.00).

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Don:  The bushing assembly consists of an outer sleeve that is pressed into the cross shaft with the shoulder directed toward the engine, a rubber insulator, and an inner bushing.  In my experience with my two 62's, the rubber part rapidly disintegrates leaving the inner bushing in direct contact with the outer metal sleeve. This is particularly the case if you are using a high performance Borg & Beck pressure plate which takes lots of pedal pressure to activate.  I have found that it works fine without the rubber part.  It makes me wonder if the original factory part used a more durable rubber compound than the service replacement units.

If this bothers you, I strongly suggest that you purchase a replacement bushing kit from Danchuck, the 55-57 Chevy parts supplier.  Go online to see it.  Their catalog number is #345, and it currently costs $16.95.  The heart of their bushing kit is two identical bushings custom made of Delrin plastic.  These do not press into the cross shaft, they install with one on each side of the cross shaft hole in place of the original pressed in outer sleeve.  Nothing is pressed in, so it is easy to service if it wears out.  You must remove the old outer sleeve to make room for this kit.  I have been using one of these kits for about 25 years in my "beater" 62 and have had no problems with it at all.  Of course it will not pass NCRS judging.

Larry Pearson

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07/22/2020

Hi!
Would like to know the exact measurements for placement of the front badge on my 1960.
Bought the car with 61 emblems.
VIN says it is a 1960.
Getting painted and the painter needs to know the placement to make the hole for the correct emblem.
Thanks! Any help is appreciated.
Cindy

From:  Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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07/19/2020

I recently changed the engine oil and filter on my 1961 Corvette and have noticed a slight oil leakage at the oil filter canister bolt head.   Do you know of a way to eliminate this leakage?  I don’t remember leakage at this location prior to the oil change.  I am fairly certain I have sufficient torque on the bolt and have observed no oil leaking at the cannister to engine interface.  The canister assembly is fairly new (Purchased from Paragon in 2004).   The original canister bolt to canister was not integral (Bolt was not attached to the cannister).  So I replaced it with the Paragon canister assembly.
> Thank you,
> Mike

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Mike,

The original style oil filter cannister can be a leakers delight if not installed properly. The rubber square x-section sealing ring at the top has to be seated flat without twisting or humps plus the cannister needs to be installed straight & perpendicular to the engine block sealing surface. The original detachable cannister bolt should have had a seal under the bolt head flange to keep the oil from leaking out the bottom.
Your integral bolt cannister should have either a seal under the bolt flange or sealing grooves formed on the underside of the bolt flange.
Paragon has very helpful customer service people. Since you are local, why not give them a call at 800-882-4688. I'm sure they would be happy to help you.

Regards,
Bill Huffman, pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
solidaxlecorvettemi.com

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Mike:  The original bolt was held in place with the canister shell with a spring on the inside of the canister.  The bolt did not come out separately from the canister, they are held together.  If the leak is at the bolt head interface with the canister shell, see if you can work some Teflon pipe thread sealer tape between the bolt head and the canister shell.  This very likely will stop the leak.

On the other end, whenever I change the filter cartridge, I remove the aluminum "O" ring retainer to remove the old O-ring at the top end.  It is difficult to remove the old rubber O-ring without doing this.

To make the oil filter change a lot less messy, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the canister and threaded it for a 1/8 pipe plug.  There is enough metal thickness here for the plug to seal and not leak.  I use Teflon tape on the plug threads and never have had a leak.  This allows me to completely drain the old oil out of the canister so when I remove it there is no hot oil running down my arm and onto my driveway.  I only change the filter element every other time I change the oil, and this allows me to easily drain the old oil out of the canister.  Of course this will fail in NCRS judging if the judges see it.

Larry Pearson

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07/17/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  To remove the cross shaft requires releasing the tension on the cross shaft helper spring.  I have always placed a pair of large vicegrip  pliers (or medium pipe wrench) on the cross shaft itself, released the clutch push rod from the cross shaft and allowed the cross shaft to rotate and relax the spring.  Once the spring is removed - disassemble of the cross shaft is an easy task.  take caution here - the cross shaft spring is stout - have a good grip on the cross shaft with your pliers - make sure you can rotate and hold the shaft with the pliers before removing the clutch push rod.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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07/08/2020

From: Verle Randolph, Red River VP:

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07/07/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  My 58 has the VIN stamped on the frame.  It is located under the driver's seat area on the top of the frame.  Depending on how much space you have between the frame and underbody, you can see it with  a light and mirror.

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  I checked my VIN stamp on a 1957.  It is located at midlength of the door.  You will need to loosen all the body bolts (12), and remove the five- left side nuts.  Put a 18" piece of 2X4 on the floor between the frame and rocker panel.  Jack up the body about 1 1/2 inches.  Clean the top of the frame in that area and use a mirror taped to the floor under the frame rail.  With the correct lighting, you should be able to take photos.

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Does the car have the original engine? If so the last 5 digits of the vin will be stamped on the pad along with the engine assembly date.
However, with the tag missing it may have been a theft recovery and the original engine may be long gone.

Chip Werstein .

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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7/01/2020

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/24/20

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/14/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

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06/13/2020

I just put a new clutch pressure plate and flywheel in my 62 Vette. I have the transmission about 1 inch from being up to the bell housing and it is hung up. Any help?

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  The usual problem is misalignment of the clutch plate. If it is not accurately centered on the throw out bearing the input shaft will hold the transmission an inch away.
This is how many transmission ears are broken, someone tries to pull the transmission to the bell housing with the bolts.

Remove the transmission and look through the center of the hole and look at the clutch plate hole and the throw out bearing alignment.

Solution is to remove bell housing, loosen the clutch plate bolts until you can move the clutch plate and center it. The alignment tool that comes with the clutch kit is usually plastic and does not do a good job of centering. It often (usually???) allows the clutch plate to slip down just enough to cause your problem.

If you have an input shaft from any Chevrolet standard transmission they work better. If not, do your best to center the clutch plate with the alignment tool as you tighten the lower two bolts a little. Move the tool in and out. when centered it should move fairly easy. Keep doing this as you tighten bolts around the clutch plate to make sure the tool moves. Also, remove the tool and inspect the alignment visually.

It is a bother but it must be done.

I have bought many very good 4-speeds with broken ears for a cheap price.

Verle

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Lee,
you changed the flywheel. Did you check to make sure the nose bushing fit the transmission input shaft?
1 inch is about the depth of the nose bushing.

If you did and it fit, does the clutch spline fit the input shaft freely or was it sticky/tight?

Is the clutch spline symmetrical relative to the plates?  If not, the new clutch plate could be backward.

Did you use an input shaft installation tool to align the flywheel/bushing/ clutch plate/pressure plate assembly before tightening & torqueing the pressure plate to the flywheel?

Good luck on your installation R & R,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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06/09/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  I have had this problem before on a Solid Axle and another vehicle.
One thing that helped me was to remove the zerk and squirt some lubricating oil in the hole. Jack car up, remove tire, jack stand support. I found better results by squirting oil several times over two or three days.

My theory is the grease  hardens over time, possibly by losing volatile ingredients. The lubricating oil softens the grease making things work better and allowing grease to be added through the zerk.

Only other option I know is to dismantle and redo.

Verle

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/08/2020

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From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Even if you open Block Drains (if you have them) you don't completely drain the block.  If you're wanting to remove all the old coolant, you have to flush the block.  This will dilute what coolant is remaining in the block and if you flush it long enough - replace the residual coolant with clear water.  When adding coolant back - simply anticipate the amount of clear water in the block to establish your desired concentration of coolant-to-water.

Note: Heater core will hold 1 Qt. 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  When filling an empty radiator and block you will have a lot of trapped air. Pour in as much as you can. Leaving the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it run, when the thermostat opens the level will fall. Keep pouring in water/antifreeze until it is full. You may have to top off a few times. After a drive where the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Turn off, let cool down then check the water level, ad as necessary. You need to open the heater control valve so it can drain or fill.

The Corvette Servicing Guide -P 14-9 at bottom, says 16 qt w/o heater, 17 qt with heater.


Verle

From: Chip Werstein, Socal Chapter Advisor:  

Mike,

Verle is .most likely correct in his diagnosis of your problem. I have been aware of potential air lock problems when filling cooling systems for many years but have never experienced it. I drill two 1/8 inch holes  in the thermostat thin metal mounting flange. This prevents the system from being sealed up which allows trapped air to escape thereby preventing air locks. Give it a try.

Chip Werstein

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06/05/2020

My question pertains to 56-57 Corvettes, if the Saginaw transmissions were cast in Saginaw where were they assembled?, St. Louis.    Same with the rear ends casting in Detroit and assembled in St. Louis, or that is what I read somewhere who knows where do you have any info on that one?

Thanks,

Kermit 

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

There was a foundry,  Saginaw Metal Casting Operations Saginaw, Michigan  1919 , where cases were cast and assembly was done in the Saginaw Transmission Saginaw, Michigan.

    Metal casting for power trains. Engine Blocks. Crankshafts

    Manual Transmissions, Originally made the Saginaw 3 and 4-Speed manual transmissions.

The old Saginaw plant was torn down in 2019.

I believe the Corvette plant in St Louis did no major assembly on mechanical parts. Those parts, engines, transmissions, rear ends, etc came ready to be installed. The plant did add accessories to those assemblies.

Verle

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5/31/2020